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  • Updates.
    Grinder no use - wouldn’t fit where I need it.
    DeWalt bit - lasted two screws.
    Cheaper bit - lasted three screws.
    Just spoke to my builder mate and he recommended a Bosch metal blade - costs around £18. The cheap bit was about £1 and the DeWalt £6 ish. You get what you pay for.
    Thanks all

  • Bolt cutter?

  • The multi tool was the best tool for the job. The only other option would have been a hacksaw blade.
    The screws were holding down a shed roof and it was important to remove them without damaging the wood. Unfortunately the screws had almost all been bent/hammered on the inside and neither a drill or impact driver would shift them - earlier attempts to remove by another party had ruined the screw heads.

  • How many screws do you need to cut?
    Agree with Airhead - go as slow as possible, it’s the build up of heat that kills the blades. Cutting/drilling faster doesn’t cut the steel any quicker - the opposite in fact.
    If there’s any way to get coolant in there (just water will help) that will make a difference- or stopping and quenching the blade.
    I have a big reciprocating saw that will cut through screws with a bi-metal blade, but sometimes a hacksaw works best.

  • I got the job done. And you and Airhead are right about temperature. It’s a learning process. I have reciprocating saw but not the blade. The hacksaw blade would have worked but taken ages and I don’t have the frame which allows the blade to poke out - it’s on a list of things I should have.

    This pic shows what I could have used.


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  • Do you think the Bosch one would get through 54 screws? If not stick with the cheap ones.

  • My builder reckons 100 screws before it died. I only need it for the odd diy thing - like today but it’s useful having the right tools - unlike my nephew who needed the help!😁

  • I’ve wrapped a blade in gaffer in the past to make a shank saw.

    I have a pistol grip Stanley handle a bit like this one, I almost never need it, but when I do...

    Sometimes it’s best to mount the blade backwards and cut on the pull stroke (like a Japanese saw) to stop the blade folding up.

  • Yup. That was the secondary plan. I’ve done that before. There is something in my head which makes me think I have a hacksaw which the blade can be mounted outside the frame - must have a look tomorrow.
    Thanks.

  • Not used them myself but the ti coated bi metal blades are supposed to go through nails. E.g.
    https://www.dewalt.co.uk/products/dt2074­7-qz--64mm-titanium-bi-metal-wood-with-n­ails-saw-blade

    I would still take it slowly even with one of them and quench.

    Carbide would be better but more expensive.

  • Thanks. Longer life that the bi-metal ones may equate to more than two screws albeit I think I wasn’t using the blade correctly - too fast and too hot for optimal performance.

  • I foresee some door work in my near future. Anyone used something like this to make solo work a bit easier? Any better examples?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magic-Gripper­-Door-Clamp-Pro-Version-Dial-Adjust-Pack­-of-2-/224422093260

  • You just want people to google magic gripper + solo work

  • Yes, I've had a pair for 10 years. They do work and I'm always happy to have them when I'm fitting hinges.

    That's also not a bad price.

  • Praise enough, ordered.

  • Most important bit of DIY since moving is now completed, shed fridge operational

    2-FC1-E325-C896-4-CD4-BC8-B-51-A13-ADCD000

  • You’ve ordered already, but why not just make a couple of these?


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  • Bumping this incase anyone can help:

    With my extension making progress I need to figure out what to do about flooring. Builders are going to put in joists to raise the height of the floor (was an existing lower floor) and ply line over the joists - I'm then getting some Larch floorboards which I will fit myself. How should I do this? Should I secret nail, glue or what. There is pipework underneath and while I hope to never need to access it, it does scare me to not have easy-ish access.

  • Floor paint, we have some shonky old cheapo laminate flooring with a wood veneer in the kitchen that is about 15 years old and looks every one of those years, we're in the middle of revamping the kitchen, painting cabinets, new work top, sink and tiles etc and want to freshen the floor without spending all the cash we don't have so needing some top tips. What is good, will last and doesn't scuff up instantly.

  • Not sure if DIY or gardening. Built a foot/mtb bridge across a bridge at the weekend. Used up some glulam ibeams and marine ply offcuts from other building work


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  • Has anyone repaired their concrete exterior window sills?

  • Make sure you get a good plumber to do the install? I take it there won't be a crawl space? You can put access hatches in, but it's extra work and may well be no use if there's a problem elsewhere than the hatch's location. FWIW, I laid a hardwood floor in my hallway over lots of pipes and electrics - I just had to take the gamble that we won't need to access any of it any time soon.

    As for fixing the boards, I used tongue tight screws.
    https://www.toolstation.com/reisser-torx­-diamond-point-flooring-screw/p49364
    I vaguely remember the Reisser ones being better than the other brands I tried. Save yourself trouble and buy a load of the correct size Torx bits as they easily get knackered as they're so small. Don't glue the boards as it'll prevent natural shrinkage and expansion.

  • No, but this is relevant to my interests. Hoping the new plasterers who our builder sent in can do more work for us, including that.

  • I've had our sand(?)stone ones repaired - DIY is a massive faff for these.

    Lots of forms, reinforcement mesh, sanding with a flap wheel, and general messing about.

  • Rule out Annie Sloan, lasted about 18 months.

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Home DIY

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