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  • Brick, I meant to say. What you say makes sense though, I guess the biggest potential for failure is the interface between plug and wall, so best to use the smallest possible for tightest fit.

  • Strength of the fixing depends on loads of stuff.
    Fixing into Victorian stock bricks is always a bit sketchy ime.
    If your plug is in securely, the size of the screw (cross section/sheer strength) not the length is what matters.
    I’d go for 5.5/6mm and brown plugs.

  • It actually works a bit differently but there are also some designs of plug that work better with different substrates.

    I use different Fischer plugs but always use a drill 1/2mm smaller than recommended. They have one that's better suited to brick, especially where you might be in the mortar.

    I will sometimes use an oversized screw to expand the plug that bit more. A 6 plug with an 8 screw happens quite a bit. The larger the plug the larger the surface area of grip between wall and plug so less likely to fail in my experience.

    I've hung radiators off plugs of wood smashed into crumbling brickwork, sometimes that's what it takes.

  • I have to redo the flashing on one side of the flat roof. Looks pretty straightforward from what I can see online and having watched a roofer do it last year on the other side. Is there anything I have to watch out for in particular? Also would need to buy an angle grinder (?) and the right kind of lead, so any advice very welcome.

    Thanks in advance!

  • Also if anyone has a roofer they would recommend in NW London, that would be much appreciated

  • I've been happy with T. J. Copping. They are based in Stevenage so might depend how far W you are. I'm in Barnet.

    http://www.tjcoppingroofing.com/

  • You can use a plugging chisel if you’re not in a hurry.
    Cutting out pointing with an angle grinder is noisy and dusty.
    You’ll need code 4 or 5 lead for a flashing on a flat roof.
    No stepped flashing? (That’s the fun bit)

  • And will fuck your brickwork really easily if it is pre-20s soft london stock or rubbers.

  • Cheers. Yeah I think it's the Fischer basic ones I've used with some success before, and know the 0.5mm smaller trick from bitter experience. It's not entirely obvious which is the right one to choose in their range but these seem a little more advanced than their basic.

    Maybe as per my previous train of thought an 8mm plug with an M6 screw, maybe coach screw if it will work, will serve me best.

    Edit: happened to have an M6 coach screw lying around, should work out pretty nicely.


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  • Hope it’s a good job. Used mine for an odd job yesterday - brilliant! How did I manage before?😁

  • Just started stripping wallpaper in our hall. It looks as though the previous owner skimmed over old wallpaper. Has anyone got any thoughts about skimming over it again?


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  • You sure that's a skim? Looks like old paint to me...

  • Looks like plaster over paper to me.

    I would remove everything that wants to come off.
    Big two handed scraper with replaceable sharp blade.
    Then prime with SBR or PVA before re-skimming.
    It’s a job for loud music and your stimulant of choice.


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  • The old distemper paint is troublesome- get as much off as possible then seal it well.

  • Thanks, will give them a call and see what they say

  • Unlucky. That's a lot of work however you approach it. Time wise it would probably be better to strip the whole lot off plaster included and start again from bricks or stud with new plasterboard or render and plaster, that's what a builder would do.

    Just estimating the alternative in time and materials and it's a lot. Is it possibly 'Artex' since that was used to cover all manner of problems.

  • Thanks, no stepped flashing thankfully, will have a look at grinder vs chisel…

  • You are not messing about!

  • If the original lime plaster isn’t blown and the surface can be stabilised there’s no reason it can’t be skimmed over.
    Knocking it all off is a filthy job.

  • @absurdbird Do you know what a rough cost would be to take it all back to brick and replaster? It's a hallway wall in a victorian terrace house.

  • Tricky to estimate how filthy it will be just to get down to the plaster. Personally I couldn't leave the wallpaper on and any method that gets that paper off damages the plaster underneath so you have the repairs to that then I would put lining paper on it because it's a hallway.

    Massive job whichever way you look at it.

    Like I said though, builders would knock it all off and render or pb. I have done work like this in a more decorative fashion but you have to ask yourself by the end whether it's worth it. Of course it's a decision that you wouldn't make based on a couple of internet photos.

  • Would be useful to know the sq. meters involved.

  • Taking it back to brick at least a few days for one person with a scutch comb SDS attachment.

    Then there's the cost of disposal.

    From the look of it, it will be lime plaster, which is a magnitude more pleasant than stripping gypsum to brick.

    How would you have it re-plastered? With lime would be the purist way (ask @Señor_Bear about that), and likely the priciest, gypsum to brick is doable, or you could dot & dab tapered boards and just paint / paper them for cheap & effective.

    Also what @absurdbird wrote - why bother? If it's in reasonable nick, just skim it.

  • The entire hallway?
    Put up a pic and dimensions.

    I would avoid stripping back to the bricks unless the plaster is blown. Especially as you’re living in the house. I’ve stripped lime plaster walls down to brick/studs and lath and the dust goes everywhere - I once had a room I was trying to keep clean with gaffer tape around the door and a poly sheet over that, the dust traveled under the floor and up through the floorboards and coated everything.

  • builders would knock it all off and render or pb.

    This builder wouldn’t, and I know others who wouldn’t either and clients who don’t want dead flat walls.

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Home DIY

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