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  • We just sold a flat with a big copper worktop/splashback/surround @ILb

    Pics here if you scroll down a bit:

    You can only get sheets of copper up to a certain length in the UK (2m IIRC) so our builder ordered longer sheets from Germany to Poland where they were shaped, then he drove to Poland in his van to pick them up because he didn't trust anyone to ship them without damaging them.

    Not sure if this is what you mean by 'aged' but ours was uncoated and the patina developed quickly with use. It was great and ever changing because water made it darker, lemon juice, ketchup, vinegar etc. lighter. Easy to clean too, just wipe down basically. It's naturally antibacterial, which is a bonus.

    Would do it again in a shot but won't be able to get pieces that long (builder now specialises in microcement and polished concrete plus we couldn't afford it), our new kitchen would be at least as big and joins would bother me...

    Bare in mind that copper is hard to glue down. Our builder managed it on the second go ;)

  • Anchor bolt in to the masonry behind the plaster should you ever find it. I mean, it must be there somewhere!

  • Do you remember/mind saying what sort of price the copper was? We're looking at something similar

  • Amazing, thanks for the run through. Looks fantastic too.

    I'm thinking of doing ours in 3 pieces anyway because it's an awkward shape. Don't suppose you remember the adhesive they used ?

  • And done.

    Not quite finished, in terms of added on bits (or position, or even the room I want it in), but the desk is now complete.

    That took a while, I have to say.

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  • Looks great! Worth the while, no doubt.

  • Bravo mate.

    That's some properly solid work there. I want to remake mine as a larger, corner desk now I'm in a new room. Something to aspire to.

  • That took a while, I have to say.

    Definitely worth it, I'd say - that looks fantastic.

  • I'm thinking about copper worktops and thinking how im going to going to join them together. Tig welding seems to be the easiest if it can be done.

  • Get your cheque book out, it'll make it a lot lighter very quickly buying copper.

  • Looks brilliant.

  • Normal copper sheet isn’t oxygen free, probably has zinc and stuff in it too so won’t TIG well. If you do try to weld it use a respirator, the fumes are gnarly. Better brazing if you can.

  • I dont know if brazing is possible on thin sheet, you'd have to heat it up a lot before you can braze surely and then in turn setting the wooden base it will sit on. I've not crossed this bridge yet but when i dont im sure brazing is out for sure.

  • Spot temperatures will be lower with eutectic brazing rather than welding though. Either way, it's going to warp unless you have heatsinks, massive fixtures, and a welding/brazing God.

  • Good tabling!!!

  • Just butt the sheets together with a nice tight join, silicone under. That’s how they do commercial stainless over single sheet size.

  • I mean thats another option, CT1 to the rescue.

  • Copper (and brass) are tricky though, as Fox mentioned.

    My go-to glue people are Redwood Innovations - 023 9223 3310. Ask for Richard, tell him what you want to stick to what and he’ll come back to you (usually in a few hours) with the correct product and how to apply it.

  • Fantastic work!

  • Great job.

  • I plan to make a panelled headboard similar to the attached and would like to move the existing wall sockets from behind so they are mounted on the panelling.
    Does the below sound reasonable?
    Remove old socket, join length of cable with terminal blocks, run to dry liner pattress box on panelling (those ones that can tighten against a plaster wall), install new socket. Would like to avoid a surface mount box as have nice low profile sockets.

    If it’s more involved I’ll get an electrician. 6 weeks wait though round here.

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  • I'm thinking about copper worktops and thinking how im going to going to join them together

    Solder, plumbers and roofers use it

  • I’d probably make an almighty mess of it and end up ripping all the lath and plaster off and replacing with plasterboard. All for a curtain pole.

  • Was checking this out yesterday for lighting, but I'll assume the same applies: if the join is inaccessible you need to do it with maintenance free fittings and junction box e.g. Wago. Sounds like you will be able to access the junction but probably good practice anyway. Not sure if you need to fix in to fire retardant MDF or anything like that.


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Home DIY

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy