Home DIY

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  • Not around there, but thanks. Thinking about it I have repointed using NHL in my last place. Garden wall that was painted on our side. It was a pretty shocking job I did, and more or less just filler as it was all painted anyway, but came out looking better than it did previously.

    I just want to do a better job this time around because it'll be more apparent if it's rough.

  • I drilled some 6mm holes in my bathroom tiles to put up a cabinet but I'm now having second thoughts about the fixings and have decided the holes need to be 8mm.

    What's the best way to open them out without cracking? I used a diamond core bit which doesn't have any centre to locate in the existing hole so I imagine doing that neatly with an 8mm bit would be a bit of a sod.

  • Or drill an 8mm hole in wood to use as a guide, position that somehow over the 6mm hole and use an 8mm core bit, if you have one.

  • These. And they self-centre, pretty much, if you're making bigger holes.

    I've only ever used the diamond ones on glass tiles - Even with my heavy-handedness, I've not managed to crack ceramic tiles with the triangley bits.

  • Cheers, that type looks like it will do the job. I don't have an 8mm diamond core so would have needed another bit anyway.

  • On the latest instalment of why are things never bloody easy, all I want to do is put a bathroom cabinet up, I've found that the combined thickness of tiles and plasterboard is about 30mm. This has ruled out the nylon plugs I was planning on using to hang the cabinet as the majority of the length would just be against the tiles and board rather than crumpling behind it.

    I was pondering using something like this https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/produ­cts/m4x59-interset-cavity-fixing-rawl-p-­no-r-sm-04059 but have some concerns that the anti-rotation spikes will crack the tiles when done up tightly? Any thoughts or other bright ideas.

    Trying to avoid spring toggles so I don't need to drill big holes in the tiles.

  • Coving - talk to me...

    Where'd you get it from?
    How did you stick it on?
    Was it easy?
    Are you happy?

  • What blanking nut do I need to cap this radiator valve while I'm having some plastering done? It measures about an inch across. I can't see anything that big on screwfix.


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  • related question - when a radiator is disconnected/bled and these pipes isolated (i.e. thermostatic valve set to 0 on one side, valve closed on the other side), can I use the rest of the system?

  • Good spot. I'd searching for blanking nut as that is what all the other sizes were called.

    Actually it's a 3/4 now I've checked the bsp spec. How lovely and confusing.

  • Yes. The radiators aren't in one series loop but in parallel.

  • Pipe specs are complicated and I don't really understand them but does 3/4" BSP refer to the internal pipe diameter?

  • lovely stuff - thanks

  • The tile drills I prefer are shaped like a diamond, with softer sides. You can open up the holes as long as you're careful.

    http://p.luckyretail.com/Uploadfile/2016­0510/001152/001152.jpg

    realised this had already been answered...

  • Sorry, It's just out of the frame. Came with the house, and it's old and crumbling.

  • did you have to use a cement mixer or manage to mix by hand?

    Mixed by hand - repointing in (small) stages so I was only ever using a bucketful at a time.

  • I was pondering using something like this https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/produ­cts/m4x59-interset-cavity-fixing-rawl-p-­no-r-sm-04059 but have some concerns that the anti-rotation spikes will crack the tiles when done up tightly? Any thoughts or other bright ideas.

    When I had to do the same thing years ago, I just bent the spikes flat using pliers - they went back into the cutouts they are formed from, leaving a (mostly) flat disk to bear against the tile.

    Use a setting tool with them - doing them up with a screwdriver mostly works, but there's always one that wants to rotate, and it's a lot more satisfying squeezing them tight than it is spinning madly ...

  • Cheers, I guess that using the setting tool does make the spikes somewhat redundant.

    @moog I think the bigger versions of those could work but would need to open the holes up even more. They look decent though so may pick some up anyway.

    @airhead Cheers, I've got one of those on order

  • A coin and a rubber washer inside a normal compression nut can seal off those. From memory I think a 10p piece works.

  • I'm redoing my kids room to insulate it properly, room is a nightmare, cold in winter and roasting in the summer. Considering using a mix of solid insulation board for the vertices and then wool on the inclined ceiling. Am I going down the right route and does anyone have experience of best materials?


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  • Could I get an opinion as to whether a quote I've had is in the right ballpark, or wildly out?

    Work involves (at a high level) to a 7m x 5m L-shaped living/dining room:

    • skimming the walls and ceiling, but no decorative finish
    • ripping out an old gas fire place, including the mantel, capping gas supply below boards and replastering as a 'void' space
    • re-boarding the entire floor with ply (but no finish, so carpet/boards extra)
    • minor electrical work (one new socket)

    All in, I've been quoted £2.8k (ex VAT). Seems reasonable-ish, but this is all fairly new to me...

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Home DIY

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