Do you have a controller / programmer wired in to your boiler?
Nope, the only control is the basic dial thermostat.
Is there a timer on the boiler then? I'm guessing it must be (unless there's none at all), if the thermostat has no switched live (or is it live - I've no idea)
The usual "smart" setup would be a programmer wired into the boiler, which connects wirelessly (or wired) to a thermostat and to some sort of hub / bridge (connected to your router / switch)
Just looked at my spreadsheet from our 2m x 2m bathroom re-do. Total 7.5k + VAT
Nice guys and they did a decent job.
Strip out - 775
Electrics / pipe boxings - 780
Prep/Decs - 490
Floor - 572 (ply overboarding + sheet vinyl)
Tiling 18.5 m2 - 1200 (Hr Johnson - nothing flash)
Sanitary supply and fit - 2586 (bette bath / Bristan taps / Duravit sink / Vitra WC)
Bath panel tiling + hardwood vanity tops 765
New door 325
Nope. Only control seems to be the basic wall thermostat.
In my last place I fitted a netatmo thermostat which works with this kind of setup but it seems to be the only one from what I've seen and what you're saying.
Cheers. That gives me a good idea of cost. Whereabouts did they cover?
Nothing stopping you placing the receiver at the boiler end of those wires, where you'll also have a ready source of mains.
True, that would be a fairly straightforward option.
Anyone parquet? Dude, do you even parquet?
pic was half way to getting desired effect, its oiled now
Dude, where did I park my parquet?
Dude, where did I park my parquet?
After two cowboys and one guy who was the real deal but very expensive, I've resigned to repointing my garden walls myself. I'll not get to this until spring, but will rake out joints over the winter.
I think lime putty could well be used.. does this need to sit in tubs (slake?) For a few months? Can I mix this in to putty form myself? Looks like a bit of a volatile process from what I've seen.
You can just make up a lime mortar - lime (I got a couple of bags from Selco), sand and water- and use it straight away.
I'm shit at brick laying so the bits I've 'repaired' are obvious, but they haven't fallen apart yet.
^^ it depends if it's hydraulic or non-hydraulic. Both are lime, but have different methods as they cure differently.
I use NHL, which is stored dry and mixed like cement, albeit left for an hour or two before applying.
Lime-putty is a different beast.
I've noticed my plasterers knock up the lime mixture the day before they use it and let it cure in big buckets over night.
I did my own repointing for the first time this year. I did a so so job but it’s something you improve at quite quickly.
I’d suggest getting a pointing hawk. It makes the job much quicker and less frustrating.
First frame built for the wall of my shed, everything spaced at 600mm, after consulting agricultural engineer brother in law.
I think non-hydraulic/ air lime was what I was thinking of, I'm struggling to see the difference between that and Hot-mixed lime mortar as listed in this article.
I think what @jsabine is talking about its probably NHL (natural hydraulic lime).
Pleased with this as a first attempt. Desperatly trying to get a room livable by winter!
Based in Tottenham - cover Greater London
Cheers, could you let me have their details please.
From that link, looks like hydraulic line mortar (so yes, NHL) is what I used - forgiving of the inexperienced, and much like cement mortar in use ...
Whatever you get if you go into a mainstream builders' merchant and look for lime mortar, basically. Straightforward to use, which suited me for our garden wall.
Nice one, did you have to use a cement mixer or manage to mix by hand?
You can mix with a mixer (if you have one).
I used a big drill & paddle.
As with cement, you don;t want it too wet. Grabbing a handful of it, it should hold it's shape reasonably well.
Re: hot lime & lime putty - As I understand it, they're both calcium hydroxide, but hot like is stored dry & mixed with water before use (creating an exothermic reaction), whereas lime-putty is stored wet (and needs to be stored wet for ages to pre-cure it).
Which is why I've only used NHL / hydraulic lime, as it's easier to store & work with.
Then there's the whole keeping-the-pointing-damp-until-it-goes-off that you need to worry about.
Yeah, I've been reading quite a lot about the application / curing times etc etc. It's quite a in-depth art. Hopefully using NHL I can't go too far wrong as long as I wait for the winter frosts to pass. Getting the cement/plants out of the wall is going to be a much more painful task I fear.
i recently rendered a brick wall with a NHL 3.5 mix and repointed/resecured a lot of loose bricks. not sure i did it correctly but generally it was super easy to work with and a lot nicer than cement. i had a go with one of those mortar guns too which was kind of fun.
i have a couple of bags going spare if you're north london (Highbury) way.
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