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  • Lolol, would rep.

  • I like Liberon wax for smaller gaps in already-finished wood. Mainly for furniture but I don't see why it wouldn't work for the floor. Might make it's way out over time and with movement, cheap and easy to give it a go though.

    Rub over the gap like a crayon until it's full, brush / hoover excess then buff away with a clean rag.

  • One of these, but cheaper and less adjustable.


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  • OOfff, it's a good thing you didn't use an Auger bit!

  • He's styling it out because I can tell you the edges on that ply top are SHARP.

  • Cheers and @stevo_com Yes, the ones like the one I linked do seem to be a bit short of somewhere to stand and stop the whole thing wobbling all over the show.

    The trouble with the Black & Decker ones is they don't seem to fold very neatly. The bosch does look like a possible. This Worx one also seems popular online but it's hard to tell whether they are proper review sites or those that just rehash the specs https://www.amazon.co.uk/WORX-WX051-Pega­sus-Multifunction-Sawhorse/dp/B0716B88KY­

  • He looks like a man with callouses.

  • I wouldn't want to go down the route of the plastic ones. Places where it matters most are likely going to not have enough meat (hinges, clasps etc) and you may find that they break just from regular use or degrade more quickly thanks to exposure to UV or certain chemicals (depending on what you use them for). For me, it would need to at the very least have a wooden top that can either be replaced or have a sacrificial top easily screwed down without splintering what's underneath.

    I've lost track of the number of times I've reduced the size of the Aldi workbench's top accidentally with the track saw.

  • I like this idea. Trying to acrylic the already finished wood seems like its a big mess waiting to happen. Cheers!

  • anyone ever epoxy'd a basement floor? I'm not even convinced it would be possible to get ours clean enough for the expoxy to key. think there's 100 years' worth of aggregate dirt down there. would be nice for it to be a cleaner environment for my pain cave though...

  • Their laminate repair sticks in packs of three shades are the same thing ✌🏻

  • I have the Bosch. I liked the way it folded up small as space is limited. It’s pretty stable on a flat floor, but the l gs aren’t adjustable so not if not. As with other makes, the frame underneath means clamping onto the summer face can be fiddly, but a wider sacrificial board for that purpose solves the problem.

  • Any idea of the basement floor has a dampcourse?
    If, (that's a big 'IF), you could clean the surface, (concrete)
    suficiently all the way to the edge/corner/joint with the walls,
    you might be able to apply a water-based epoxy.

    Whether the cured epoxy surface would blow under the hydrostatic pressure
    the next time the water table rises would be a risk you would have to take.

  • I don't think it does, at least I doubt it - think it's the full original setup from 100 years ago when the houses were built

    I was down there this morning and there was a ring of slight wetness around the very base of the basement, following the very heavy weekend rain - I'm not massively worried about that (probably foolish) but think it probably puts paid to my notions of getting floor sealed...

  • i think some cement-based tanking coat would work. I used something like this https://www.permagard.co.uk/basement-wat­erproofing/cement-tanking in an upright wall application, it has little crystals in the mix which expand when damp and create a waterproof seal. Leave for a week or so o activate, then paint over

  • Just try and seal it as much as you can from the outside, stick a dehumidifier down there and enjoy your rough hewn subterranean beauty.

  • Anyone used a hippo bag for 100% rubble? Their site states a 1.5T limit for the 'megabag' but according to this it's likely to weigh a fair bit more. Customer service assures me it'll be fine to fill it to the brim.

    Edit: their FAQ specifically says you can fill the smallest bag to the brim with rubble, so I'll just go with that one.

  • You can do that with the midi, which will happily be lifted when overfull of even wet rubble. Not the mega though.

  • Ah yeah, the midi, confusingly that's the small one. Cheers I'll get that.

  • Anyone got a recommendation for easily available matt-ish white paint for furniture?

    Something that will wipe clean relatively easily.

    Rust-Oleum?

    Cheers.

  • I'm guessing you mean eggshell which is slightly less glossy than matt. Pretty much any Acrylic Eggshell from any manufacturer will do that. There are some tougher ones but it's fairly specialised to require it. If it's for a kitchen stool you will need to repaint the seat fairly regularly because it won't stand that sort of wear.

    Oil based eggshell is a bit less common these days and it's more durable once properly dry. Also easier to wipe but it's not as easy to work with and there's the volatile organic compounds to consider.

    Whatever you're painting will need to be properly prepared and primed/undercoated. Zinnser All Coat is available in matt and it's very useful for lots of jobs. It needs a week to fully harden though.

  • If raw wood you might look at milk paint.

  • Tool nerds! I just invested in a Milwaukee straight die grinder. Had a gnarly job stripping layers and layers of flaking paint off a small exterior window and its sandstone sill. Used a flap wheel on the grinder, combined with a carbide scraper, and it must have halved the time. Why hadn’t I heard of them before? Also going to be useful with a burr bit to remove rotten wood from a bigger frame I have to do. Thanks to @Airhead I think for bringing them to my attention.


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  • Cheers.

    I mean non-gloss really, so either matt or eggshell would work.

    I was going to use a black oil based exterior wood paint I have spare, but now I've painted the white primer my OH likes the look of white - so if I'm buying something thought I may as well buy the correct stuff.

    Wood is a mix of some sort of compressed ply (ikea) and MDF.


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  • They are all going to be roughly the same durability. The important thing will be to let the paint properly harden before you use it, otherwise you'll scuff the surface pretty quickly.

    If you had painted it black with a white primer you would regret it when the black wears out and the white primer shows through. I've seen this problem with dark colour skirtings. Always best to use a darker primer with dark woodwork.

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Home DIY

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