Home DIY

Posted on
of 960
  • I stopped worrying about the silica content of wood ages ago. It's the clients call what wood I use on their projects I can try and guide them to a more sensible/cost effective product but at the end of the day once they get an idea in their head..........

    Besides all that the silica content of proper timber makes little difference to modern tct blades (old school hss blades are a different story) and even something like ebony or iron wood that has a massive silica content is not as damaging as MDF or particle board.

    I didn't know that about larch trees being used as a firebreak that's pretty interesting and also surprising. I've used green larch for a couple of jobs recently and when it's green there is so much resin in it that it feels damp and sticky to the touch so I would have thought that it would go up pretty aggressively.

    Anyways was a partial success today cut one sill about 10mm long which threw things out slightly but overall I'm pretty happy with the dry fit. Wall plate sitting on top of the sill for a length comparison.

    3 Attachments

    • MVIMG_20200803_161752.jpg
    • MVIMG_20200803_161759.jpg
    • MVIMG_20200803_161806.jpg
  • That's the COSHH disposal system (we put it in a portaloo branded bucket so no one is temped to drink it when they are having a particularly bad day).

  • cut one sill about 10mm long

    Better than the alternative.

  • Anyone have any wisdom to share about digging holes for 4x4 posts? I need to do 16 of them, 200mm wide, 600-700mm deep. I have no post digging specific tools yet. I was going to buy a 200mm Auger and a post hole digger, but then I realised I could rent one of these for a day for less cost.

    Petrol engine, 2 man operated. 10 times the fun and 10 times faster?

    Garden is combo of top soil and clay.

  • My neighbour just did this. What’s the roots/rubble situation on your site?
    With two pretty strong guys they were regularly thrown about as the auger ran into endless numbers of the above.
    This was for 6x6 posts, about 8 of them, took all day.

  • If it's pretty "clean" soil, i.e no chance of hitting tree roots or rubble, then they can be pretty good but will still be prone to grabbing and either hurting you or dragging you round in circles. If they soil isn't clean forget it you will be quicker without it.

  • The soil will be clean for maybe 10 of the holes, 6 of them have a chance of encountering some roots from a tree I chopped down a couple of years ago. If there is a chance of injury then think I'll give it a miss then and do it the old fashion way.

    Thanks for the potential bullet dodged both.

  • This roughneck-17lb-post-hole-digger for smashing into the ground and then this roughneck-fibreglass-post-hole-digger to remove it?

  • Wow my experience was not so dramatic and I was using one alone in messy soil. .

    I moved slowly and the trick is to be ready to let go of the throttle. Some times you accidentally gas it when it get stuck and that can be quick a surprise.

    Honestly if it was two of you I'd think you could just gas it hard and rip through almost anything.

  • The Wickes post hole digger would save you £20 and do just as good a job, particularly if you're only using it for your garden.

    I like the Wickes post spade too - It's more versatile than the Roughneck, and cheaper.


    I get a surprising amount of use from it.

  • Anyone on here fitted a victorian/edwardian fireplace, particularly just for aesthetics rather than to actually use? How easy was it? All the guides online seem to be fitting them for actual use rather than just the look.

  • New desk almost finished.

    Just need to make the ply case to hold the epoxy.

    1 Attachment

    • IMG_20200805_132342279_HDR.jpg
  • Post didn't post for some reason.

    Not actually a desk. I was asked to "help" my OH make a mud kitchen.

    After establishing that pallet mud kitchens on Pinterest are actually made of proper wood by dickhead semi-pro US carpenters with $10k worth equipment masquerading as amateurs I decided to wing it with Stevo's offcuts.

    Hole and sink is in, just some accessories to go.

    (top pic is wonky rather than the kitchen being lopsided)

    3 Attachments

    • IMG_20200805_135302476_HDR.jpg
    • IMG_20200805_113953545_HDR.jpg
    • IMG_20200805_124551879_HDR.jpg
  • I used the same batch of off cuts in our mud kitchen - csb

  • That’s awesome 👏 gonna give that a go at the weekend

  • okay so I may be going way OTT here but I'm currently toying with the idea of opening up the back of a terrace house.

    It'll be a mid-terrace and I'll need to support the floors above since its the back of the house.

    Would anyone be able to advise on ball park costs for something like this? I'm happy with handling the work myself (outside of steel beams and getting them into place)

  • Cheers.

    Took a while to work out the best way (i.e. fewest cuts and least desirable bits of wood).

    Attaching the back was the trickiest bit as you've got the bit lumps of wood plus an uneven surface. In the end I wood glued the touching surfaces and nailed the left and right at 45° plus a screw from the bottom up in the centre. Idk if it's quite as strong as I'd like but if it breaks then I'll work out a more secure method.

    @stevo_com not a patch on your one. Thanks again for the bits of wood. Still haven't cleared my outhouse enough to start the workbench. But the off-cuts have been put to good use as giant building blocks to move around and stack. The scaffold board started to split, so I reinforced it with some spare treated blue roof battens and is now a mini "wobbly bridge". A few of the long bits come out from time-to-time to build bridges.

    2 Attachments

    • IMG_20200806_101103357_HDR.jpg
    • IMG_20200806_084354374.jpg
  • Painting over laminated/vinyl wooden cupboard doors. Whats the recommended primer? looks at @Airhead :D

  • Please post in the non-bike project forum.

    I've a rack of spare 2x4 and 2x6 and pallets, and once the garden is less building site like, I'm sure our kids & next door's kids would love more hardware to mess around on.

  • We want to replace the bath with a shower using the same footprint and plumbing.

    A shower area that size would normally be fine as a walk-in with a fixed screen, but in this case the non-shower end end is too close to the loo so access has to be in the middle not from one end, which means it needs a panel | door | panel setup like this:*

    Problem is the end wall without the shower has a window, and the window starts before the edge of the bath, so the RHS panel will cut across the window opening.

    To make things even more difficult, there's a full width, half-height boxed in area below the window as well.

    Would it be ok to attach the RHS panel to the half-height boxing in only, and stabilise the rest with wall bars:

    Other option is just to get the window replaced and resize the opening. It's in ok-ish condition so not a disaster if that's the way we go, just a faff to get organised.

    • unless it's ok to have panel | door only, with the door just opening freely, not closing against a side wall or fixed panel? Feels like that's not ok.
  • Get an aluminium box or channel section and attach it on top of the boxing and to the ceiling that will act as a spine?

  • I hate to say it but no one has ever managed to get me to do it! If I had to I would use Zinsser Universal Degreaser then Krud Kutter Gloss Off or Fossa Grax-It followed by Zinsser 123+ then undercoat and top coat of your choice. Once it's finished try to leave it alone for a week to let the paint properly harden.

    Forgot to add that I would use a roller unless you really want a brush pattern and choose the roller carefully because the roller pattern differs wildly. I usually roll the paint on and brush it out but I've 30 years experience so it mostly works out. Painting kitchens well is quite difficult.

  • It’s a cupboard in a bedroom (well 4 full height floor to ceiling) - I had planned to lightly sand, zin-123, sand, undercoat, sand, roll using microfibre roller. Been cleaned with sugar soap already. Am I going to be ok?

    Btw we got the guy in to do the front room and he did a great job so have asked to do landing and hallway too - getting to know him first was a good idea (and he did a nice job repainting the ceiling). Only problem is now we want him to do kitchen and bathroom too! 😄

  • If it's smooth then avoid sanding and use the deglosser, sugar soap is a good start with degreasing but the deglosser kind of etches the surface for the primer.

    Sand between coats very lightly. I use a 320 or similar grit soft sanding pad. There are some foam backed sanding pads which come on a roll that are well worth having. They are popular in the auto paint world.

  • Ok nice thanks (one less sand is nice) - I have some 320 and 400(?) blocks.

    I’ll try and find some deglosser tomorrow

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview

Home DIY

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy