If it's an old radiator, it might be worth taking it off the wall completely and giving it a rinse through outside to get any gunk out. You'll have to top the system up when you put it back and don't forget if you have a TRV to put the decorators' cap on it (we woke up to a very soggy lounge one morning)
Thanks. I can take them on the bracket and paper quickly. One of the legs goes does more than the other. No leaks which was my worry
Wooden worktops in the kitchen (not my choice) are looking pretty tired. Any recommended products to give them a new lease of life? Unfortunately there is quite a lot of sun and some humidity near the window, so ideally looking something easy to apply consistently, durable and food safe... shall I just wax on? danish oil and sponge brush?
This is a crap pic of our lounge floor, we like (the floor) a lot and want to replicate it in the kitchen. How should I go about this? Flat is ex council block
Looks like an oak parquet.
Most wood flooring places will be able to do it but it ain't cheap. I would not recommend attempting to lay this type of floor without a lot of experience as the tolerances needed are tight. A 0.25mm gap in one place could easily lead to a 10mm gap somewhere else, hence the cost.
I need to put a vapour barrier down on a concrete slab before installing the flooring. The slab has a DPM under it already. I have a huge roll of DPM left over, can I just use that or is there a reason why I should use a thinner "vapour barrier"? DPM is a fair bit thicker but if I figure its there to prevent passage of moisture in the air so it will do the same job?
Sequence will be from top to bottom
Maybe another layer of DPM above the concrete as well to stop any residual moisture from the slab coming up into the insulation? I have no idea.
Normally the vapour barrier us part of the underlay for the flooring.
If I'm honest I'm not too sure why you would lay the floor the way you are. With regards to the chipboard are you attempting to level the floor to take out hollows that may be in the slab?
chipboard is there to spread load over the insulation which might otherwise dent under concentrated load such as foot traffic or table legs etc. It will help a bit with leveling too although I have taken out hollows using self leveling compound already.
Kingspan suggest something similarhttps://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/products/insulation/kingspan-insight/articles-and-advice/why-and-how-to-construct-a-floating-floor
Ok for some reason I skipped over the line with the PIR on it apologies.
So basically you can use the dpm and you shouldn't have any issues however if there is a build up of moisture below the dpm material it will be trapped there and can potentially cause issues. The vapour barrier will do exactly the same job but if there is a build up of moisture it will allow the moisture to escape, don't ask me how as far as I know it's witchcraft.
I'm assuming that this is for your garden office so the choice is yours as I don't think you'll be inspected.
Ha. If there is witchcraft involved then I shall not skimp out and use my left over dpm. I'll go get some more thinner vapour barrier.
This membrane stuff is confusing. Vapour barriers are actually slightly breathable, and breathable membranes are even more breathable then!?
I have a roll of tyvek roof vapour barrier if you want
Breather membranes allow regulated 2 way traffic. Vapour barriers allow 1 way traffic to prevent moisture build up.
Or that's my understanding anyway. When I'm involved with this stuff, which isn't that often these days, I tend to do what has been specified.
Buy a load of second hand parquet, then spend what feels like a million years knocking the bitumen on the underside of the blocks off the sides so they are perfectly flat to avoid the situation that Bobbo talked about. Also knock off any big lumps from the bottom.
Work out your pattern, starting with a spine laid down the middle of the room. Work out how you are going to handle the transition to the wall.
Get a decent mitre saw, and prepare to mitre.
Buy an adhesive that sticks to both your sub-floor and the bitumen (I did this, huge time-saver), then lay your floor.
Either get a chap in to sand the new floor so it's flat, or hire a sander.
I got my existing parquet and the new floor sanded and sealed so it's all the same colour.
how I understand it (arch tech) - Breather membrane allow the escape of air but does not allow rain through (Tyvek breather membrane) and the vapour barrier (also known as VCL) does not allow any air to escape through it. The project I am working on at the moment upon completion will be tested for air leakage and has to better 3 m3/h.m2 which is going to be interesting. The VCL is usually located behind the plasterboard on the warm side of the insulation. Reduces the risk of interstitial condensation.
Its entirely possible I'm wrong. Like I said I'm no expert, although in the next year or so I'm going to have to learn a hell of a lot more than I currently know as I'm going to be building my own house and want to go down the passive route.
so they are perfectly flat to avoid the situation that Bobbo talked about.
so they are perfectly flat to avoid the situation that Bobbo talked about.
Not really what I meant. The parquet on @tmevans floor is laid in brick pattern not herringbone. In brick pattern if where two blocks in a row meet the edges of the blocks need to form a perfect straight line. If this doesn't happen there will be a gap, which will be accentuated with every subsequent row of blocks. Herringbone is not without its difficulties but is considerably more forgiving than other ways of laying parquet, which is why its a lot more common.
I picked up this slightly sorry looking but aesthetically pleasing chest of drawers for next to nothing and would like to do a Semi-refurb. I know how to use tools but my knowledge of non-structural materials is poor.
It was a jewellers display cabinet and I’ve chopped the ‘display’ part off. Could someone recommend which type of wood would be a good match for a new top piece?
Find someone on mybuilder who will come round, sand off a little bit, and then oil.
Our house needs a complete rewiring, essentially starting from scratch. Quotes are coming in at around 5.5k (Edinburgh)
I'm relatively practical but have no experience. Should I be thinking about DIY and getting it signed off properly or just sticking to paying someone else?
I'm normally all about having a go yourself but it's not that easy to get your own work signed off by a registered electrician even if you are qualified but not registered. In practice the 3rd party signing has not really taken off in the industry.
Rules are slightly different in Scotland so the situation might be different there but in London at least 3rd party signing is not that easy to do.
I saved some money buy chasing out for sockets ect... and then making good myself. But letting the pro's fit the wiring. I guess you could run the cables and get someone to connect it all up.
What I didnt do, but wish I did was lift the floor boards myself. The electrician that hacked away at them with a multitool has cost me a lot of time,effort,money having to replace the boards he knackered. I guess this isnt such a problem if you a carpeting though...
Depends, do you have easy access to the current wires? Can you get materials on the cheap? Do you know someone in the industry? What needs to be done exactly?
I had no experience and have managed to do a just under 100sqm mains ring, some lighting plus a few other things (running lights from a mains spur, hotel style lighting sockets) with the help of google, youtube videos and sticking the odd Q in this thread.
Mains is very straightforward. Lighting can get a bit confusing when you want multiple switching.
Got someone to come around who put a meter on everything and opened a few of the sockets to check my work and signed off.
The crawling around on your knees and working with tiny small screws etc. can get a bit tiring. A proper pair of wire strippers and wago’s make the job 100 times easier.
How recently was that done?
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