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  • Honestly I don't know. The advice I've always been given is to advise my clients that they must notify their buildings insurance provider. I know that some insurance providers will void a policy if they find out that the same thing is insured with multiple providers, so I wouldn't take the risk even if I could find a policy that was suitable. You may need to spend the weekend digging around your filing system. Sorry.

  • Thanks @aggi, I did have one of those diverter things on my existing mixer but it wasn't very intuitive and my house guests kept splashing themselves in the face. Was fine for me though!

    And thank you @plantasia - I have a weird bathroom so the straight up riser ones won't work, but I think you're right that I need to be looking for combined 'hand shower' and 'riser' mixers, that seems to have brought up a lot of good ones. Excellent google fu!

  • EDIT: Ignore me, I was looking at the picture wrong

  • Cheers. Done some digging - all sorted. My buildings insurance covers works that take up to 30 days with no changes to policy.

  • Big question is, will the paint stick to it?


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  • for trims around windows it is sealant i use or caulk?

    I've gone to using the expanding foam method, but first attempt at covering the gaps under the sills weren't that good - final finish wasn't neat but I live to learn from it.
    happy to take pictures if needed - i want to get the sills ready for painting with the skirting boards

  • "Some dickhead's put up a fence on my drinking wall"?

  • Post some pictures.

    The one thing I would say is if you're using expanding foam a gun makes it much more controllable than using the cans with triggers. Also this expanding foam tape is better than the foam I find, I do realise it's probably too late.

  • "Let's get drunk and break it!"

  • We have an overhead shower and then some old school bath taps with 2-way taps/shower head like you've shown (bath was £90, bargain).

    We plumbed the overhead unit in separately (with a mixer valve) and put the mixer valve/overhead shower pipes in the walls/ceiling.

    Quite a lot of work, but it looks great and it's nice having the mixer valve in the right place if you're standing in the bath..

  • Yeah at time of buying couldn’t justify having a gun. Trying to weigh up the future use but I might as well get one now.

    The strips look like a good idea. No mess neither. I assume you cut to length and stuff in gap?

    Here are some pictures (excuse the poor finish of my lining
    You can see the black mould - so at the moment I’m trying to elimate issues with the windows. Downstairs bay is much worst is terms of area of cover. But upstairs could do with taking out and insulating so another project to do on my list. Plus the double glazing is probably quite old. There’s no trickle vents on them and some of the vent for the chimney was wallpapered over which I’ve opened up and fitted a vent cover.


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  • I've been swapping out my various sealants to CT1 recently.

    Expensive per tube, but it's saving the need for a couple of different ones.
    Easy to work with and sticks well

    https://www.ct1.com/product-applications­/sealants-from-ct1/

  • I need to get some 1930's basin taps refurbished - does anyone have a place that they can recommend which does this? They're solid brass that has been chromed.

  • There are (or were, when I was interested in that kind of thing) some threads about re-chroming old bike parts.

    Most places that do it are much of a muchness, IIRC.

  • Key thing is re-cutting the valve seats so the leaks are banished, which I am assuming needs a tap place rather than a chroming place to be in overall charge.

  • Several different products you can use to for gaps between different substrates. I use Toupret Fibacryl on top of a normal hard filler with foam strips backing that in larger gaps.

    There's not one answer to your question and if you have a big box of materials to choose from you can get great results. A simple answer is caulk though, it shouldn't need to be waterproof but as you point out there's condensation around window areas.

    I've found over time that very little works for more than a few years. Fibacryl on the specialised scrim works very well on skirting, especially stair skirting but it's a bitch to apply.

  • You can recut the seats with a hand held tool. Not sure why you need to make it a bigger deal than that.

    Chrome quality is a big subject. I would ask someone like SDS ironmongery, basically a quality ironmongers in your area should have a contact. They will have seen results and can advise you on what to expect.

  • @Airhead and @user69121 have some good advice.

    I'd also add that I'm not sure insulating / sealing round the windows will solve all your issues those units seem to have been very poorly insulated or installed.

    Take the third picture you posted for example I would imagine that you have condensation forming up and down that middle trim piece between the two glazing units. It may be that you need to get the units replaced and properly installed to completely solve the problem, I realise that this is probably not what you want to hear, but bear in mind a good local supplier will normally come in much cheaper than the national guys like Everest.

  • I think a lot of that it just old and mucky as opposed to mouldy.

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-u­pvc-cleaner-1ltr/86575

    Or just hot soapy water, a paint brush to get into the corners and microfiber cloth should have the frames looking much cleaner.
    A sharp scraper should take off the old sealant. The quarter round beading along the sill will probably pull away with the scraper behind it, which would make prepping the sill easier.

    Reseal any sections on the outside where the silicone has split or coming away.

    I wouldn't bother trying to take the glass out unless you need to replace the double glazed unit.
    Being as they are glazed from the outside, I'd expect the beads to be security locking.
    Where you remove the internal wedge gasket, push the glass inwards which allows the beads to unlock. Being as there's no wedge gasket visible between the glass and inner frame, your glass is retained with double sided security tape.

  • We’ve just had both bathrooms redone - happy to give recommendations (SE Londinium). Our old bath went to the local primary for their OPAL (Outdoor Play And Learning), much fun is being had!


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  • Watch out for the phthalate in that.

  • Watch out for the phthalate in that.

    I usually wear disposable gloves and use profiling tools instead of a wetted finger.

    Noted, thanks.... Not suitable for crafting sex toys from 😂

  • Thanks all. Few ways of tackling it.

    I will eventually replace the windows when time and money is available

    I’ve only owned the house for two weeks so I’m in no rush

  • You can recut the seats with a hand held tool.

    I tried that, it didn't work. I accept that I may just need to take a lot more of the face off, but I don't know how much is safe to remove, hence thinking that using someone who does might be a good idea.

  • Speaking of sealants... I have recently vented my cooker hood through the kitchen wall. The ducting piece with the vent that goes through the wall has a rubber seal and I have used exterior grade silicone to seal the gaps around it from the outside. Do I need to seal from the inside, too? If so, should I use expanding foam/tape or silicone?

    Thanks so much!

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Home DIY

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