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  • For that kinda money I'd like the screws to sit flush tbh. At least on the one they photograph for their website

    Also that cleat looks one of those that suddenly lets go.

  • I love the overall design so much that I have day dreams on the train of going all dammit and commissioning someone to make some sort of over engineered cnc version in hard anodized beadblasted black with brass fittings and then launching a Kickstarter to sell them to other men online who needlessly obsess about high quality functional products.

    Ooooooooooh! Tell me more! Kevlar lines?

    I've got one of these, which is a cheap and cheerful version and I think it's great. The coolest thing is that the lines are long enough to go all the way down the garden round a hook on the shed and then all the way back to a hook on the house, so there's loads of drying space. The cleats on the reel housing have been fine, but the loops on the ends of the lines have cracked, so I've had to bodge something for those.

    As far as the hoistable ones go, my research suggested that it was surprisingly pricey to build one as the proper oval laths aren't cheap and you need decent timber. Ultimately though, we didn't get one as we would have been hoisting it up under our kitchen skylights and losing a lot of natural light.

  • Yeah. Read different ways of removing. Such as wallpaper stripper. Scraping. Some Areas it’s blown.

    My initial idea was boarding over which also provide a barrier for soundproofing and space to fit spotlight and wiring if needs be. I’d be loosing 15-20mm of ceiling height?

  • Who here knows about silicone sealants?

    Tha gasket thing on my motorcycle visor is damaged and I thought I’d try to patch it with black silicone.
    Is there any change it will stick to the existing rubbery stuff?
    Any better ideas?

    edit: is this a case for sugru, actually? I've never used the stuff, will it stick?


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  • if your visor is plastic, silicone won't touch it, it will peel straight off

  • Thanks. It is some sort of plastic I guess, polycarbonate, maybe?
    The original gasket thing doesn’t really stick well to the visor. Do you think sugru will stick to it?

  • What about just using a strip of self-adhesive foam? You might also be able to bodge something with self-amalgamating tape

  • Can't you get some kind of rubber strip that'll fit? Something like this?

  • This, or any scrap of EVA, and stick it with an an impact adhesive.

  • Oh right, it will stick well to polycarbonate. Try a small amount and see what happens

  • Right DIYers, next bathroom task is floor tiles.

    Our tiles are 223mm square (these) and the floor is ~1.8m 'square'. I don't know what size spacers to use or what colour grout...
    Should I mark the centre cross and work out from there or start at a wall? I've been looking up instructions and it looks painfully tedious work.

  • I’d go for a grey that matches the grey on the tile. Get Mapei, same with adhesive get some good stuff.

    First thing to check is subfloor, is it adequate? Most adhesive manufacturers will want 18mm plus another 15/18mm on top.
    Other option is to use some sort of wedi or cemetous board in which case defer to the board manufacturers spec.
    Once subfloor is sorted start by marking out from the door either with a full tile centred or with a tile either side of centre and mark out to your room edges. 3 or 4 mm spacer should be fine. Mix adhesive is small batches, mix it really really well (buy a mixing paddle for your cordless drill) and clean everything thoroughly between mixes.

  • Apologies am trying to do a lengthy post on my phone so there may be multiple edits after posting.

    Tiling is tedious work but also very rewarding.

    The following is a guide and once you have figured it out I would dry lay the floor minus any cut tiles to see how it looks. With the geometric pattern you have chosen it may well be more important to have even cuts on either side but this is something that you can only judge by dry laying the tiles

    First check the walls of the room for square so you know what you are dealing with.

    In terms of laying out, you want to divide the room into 4 let's call them quadrants they don't have to be even though and I'll explain why in a second. I'm going to refer to rows and columns so the columns will originate from the wall with the door in it and rows will (obvs) run perpendicular to this. I would always aim to have the central column start in the middle of the door (this is why your "quadrants" may not be even) this will be the most noticeable grout line in the bathroom so get it right. Mark the centre of the grout line going away from the door at a right angle and ping a chalk line, if you can, mark the position of the chalk line in the wall for later reference use masking tape with a pencil line if need be.

    Next you need to position the grout line at the centre of the rows. I do this my measuring the depth of the bathroom at it's deepest point and then divide it by 2 mark this on the column line and ping another chalk line across the room running exactly perpendicular to the first line you marked, again mark up the wall at the end.

    Dry lay your tiles, if you want to move them do so, but remember to measure the offset from the chalk lines you've marked. This will also give you the opportunity to see what size spacers you want to use, but I wouldn't go much more than 2mm.

    Once you're happy with positioning, lift the tiles carefully, and re-mark the centre grout lines from the centre lines you originally marked (assuming they've moved).

    As far as the grout goes the current trend is to use a grout that contrasts with the dominant colour in the tiles. In this instance however I would ignore that as I think it would detract from the geometric pattern so I would go with white / cream although this will show up dirt.

    As far as tile spacers go I use these they are a lot more expensive than normal ones but they do really help keep the tiles nice and level.

  • Other option is to use some sort of wedi or cemetous board in which case defer to the board manufacturers spec.

    This is a much better option for problematic subfloors

  • Only experience is with grouting, but what ever you do, absolutely do not skimp on grouting sponges and equipment.

  • Thanks @Bobbo @sacredhart - subfloor is 6mm Marmox board (cement/polystyrene jobs) over new P5 chipboard, tile adhesive fixed with joints taped (as per manufacturer instructions etc).
    I wanted a fully watertight surface after the previous state of things!

    Looks like the next step is a lot of marking out and dry laying... I will defer to Mrs Hammer for the grout colour and see what the spacing looks like laid out before deciding there.
    I have a mixer paddle so that’s a start!

  • When the light switch is on I have 242 volts on the meter, when the light switch is off I have 35. Why is this?

  • Does it have a neutral wire or just live and ground?

  • Live and neutral, no ground

  • 2.17 when I flipped the fuse in the consumer unit

  • Reconsidering. You may have a loose neutral somewhere.

    You can get neutral currents but it's generally with unbalanced 3 phase systems or harmonic distortion. A lot (and I mean a lot) of fluorescent lighting can induce current too.

    Tighten up your terminal screws.

  • Conductors that are installed in close proximity to one another, and are capacitively coupled to each other, can cause this a.c. voltage reading. Such a reading could be 2 or 3 volts, or it may be as high as the voltage on the adjacent conductors. This is what is referred to as a “phantom” voltage.

    Not my description. If you are checking that the circuit is safe to work on using a multimeter this is a problem you can run into. You are supposed to use a dedicated voltage tester.

  • I touched the wires and didn’t die

  • That's the spirit.

  • The fitting in the ceiling had two threaded holes that were almost, but not quite, M5.

    I have a billion M5 bolts, but no almost, but not quite, M5 bolts.

    So I tapped the holes to M5, bolted the light fixture to the ceiling (fairly sure that this was with mudguard spares), and everything now works.

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Home DIY

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