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  • Thanks @Mr_Sworld and @Airhead

    I had a bit of a fiddle last night and got all bulbs working, but then one stopped shortly after with no vibrations or anything that would cause a loose connection (no one walking in the room above, no one banging about in the kitchen etc). So I swapped two of the bulbs over and the same bulb (in the new location, where previously there were no issues) stopped after a few mins. Could the halogen heating up cause this?

    How difficult is it to remove the transformers, and is there likely to be one transformer per light fitting or will I need to lift the floor in the room above?

    I should just remove a fitting and take a proper look shouldn't I?

  • Is there a clever way of tracing a tiny leak backwards? Our built-in shower (no idea of construction underneath the tiles) is leaking through to the ceiling below. Only a few drops at the moment but it’s getting worse...

  • I did this job a few years ago when we moved into our new place. The transformers should pull out through the holes for the fitting. Then, it's just a question of removing them and re-wiring the GU10s in with a chocolate block and enclosing the wiring in a housing.

  • Then, it's just a question of removing them and re-wiring the GU10s in with a chocolate block and enclosing the wiring in a housing.

    This is essentially it but I would use a Wago connector instead of a choc block now as they are maintenance free.

  • Good shout, I only found out about Wagos last year. Where do you get yours from?

  • I need to trim out some newly fitted windows with something slightly more thick than just architrave, because they've been fitted flush to the inner wall and there would be light leakage round the sides of blinds when fitted otherwise.

    I was thinking 38mm thickness should do it. What kind of timber should I go for - I thought that bog standard pine from BnQ etc might be a bit too shitty - and any recommendations for where to buy it..?

  • Do you mean a connector block, inside a chocolate box?

    As fas as I'm aware, you shouldn't have wires connected through blocks just loose, even with the wago connectors.

  • Umm. Work, to be honest.

    I'm a FM Engineer. However any electrical retailer will have them including Screwfix and Toolstation.

    If you go to a trade counter they have sample packs for free. I'm slowly 'acquiring' them. 😏

  • Yes this is true. They should be inside a extra box with strain relief on the cable entry.

  • Choc block is what sparkies call those connector strips (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_term­inal#Multiway_versions). As TW said, they need to go in an enclosure. I used one like this:

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/debox-in-line­-connector-box/8692h

    Confusingly, there is a brand of these called Choc Box.

  • Yup. That is correct.

    The idea of using Wago is that once the connection is made you don't have to worry about it anymore.

    Connection Blocks rely on a screwed terminal that can loosen off over time. Therefore it needs to be checked.

    Wago (other brands are available) with strain relief on the outer insulation of a cable are the way to go in the modern Sparky World.

  • Grandis is the red hardwood that is used by joiners for stable knot free wood. The pine from B&Q is not that bad for softwood (pine), generally it's being stored at around room temperature as well. There's no silver bullet, you have to drive around and places and be prepared to leave it if it doesn't check out. Look carefully at every piece you buy and be prepared to stand your ground. Places don't like you cherry picking but it's not worth letting them sell you rubbish.

    You can go to a joiner but it will be expensive.

  • Sorry but IME the only way to fix something like that is to tear everything out, let it dry and then build a new bathroom. Water ingress into the surrounding structures leading to subsequent mold etc. Is it a wooden floor/ceiling where this is happening? I mean joists and things. If it's concrete you might be in better luck.

  • Yeah it’s wooden unfortunately. I’ve found a couple of guides for locating the leak (probably cracked grout apparently) so I’ll try that first - we’re talking a few drops over the course of a 15 minute shower and I can rip the thing out but we can’t afford to replace it at the moment!


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  • At least you've not got a leak on the supply side, that can be a lot more damaging. I would start with the sealant. I've fixed a few shower leaks that way. Sometimes the coloured (decorative) sealant is not backed up by anything more substantial underneath. If you have a multi tool there is a special blade for cutting out sealant. You might notice as you're removing it that there is some water behind it or signs of water having penetrated. If it's grout then look for the places that dry slowest or just grind the grout out (again with a multi tool and appropriate blade) and re-grout.

    New shower is a touch overkill but there are some leaks that defy logic and persist despite your best efforts so you might need to be patient. Do check the trap too if possible.

  • Has anyone had a new kitchen recently? We're having a new one soon and I'm for ideas. Typical stuff an island handle-less doors etc etc.

  • Oh really? Hah. This was a household suspended ceiling fitting with the bulbs pointing up though, which are quite common and puts the base at the bottom, so I can only presume are OK.

  • This sounds like a great reason to get a multi tool tbh.
    I’m going to go through the various test stages to narrow the location down but tbh I suspect the shelf bit on the left side. No idea what construction is going on underneath though.


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  • That is very likely one area, maybe not the only one but you'll have more of an idea when you cut the sealant out. If it has discoloured or moulded on the hidden bits then it's leaking.

    Fein are the original multitool manufacturer and you'll not regret buying one in the long run. They do a set which comes with grout and cutting blades but not the sealant cutting blade. I use a spray called multi solve to get rid of any remaining sealant.

    It's a horrible job but the multi tool makes it bearable, try doing it with a Stanley blade first if you need convincing. The chemical sealant softeners are not to bad I just prefer to avoid using that type of chemical if possible.

  • That's very helpful, many thanks

  • Thanks for all the light advice folks. WFH this afternoon so might be able to see if I can get at the transformers etc to plan the job a bit better.

    The reason I'll be at home is my gf has locked herself out. Again. So to stop this happening in the future I have suggested a key safe like this but I'm wondering if it needs to be screwed to a flat wall? Our house is rendered with some sort of lumpy stuff (technical term) so potential robbers would just be able to jimmy it off the wall fairly easily and then break the box open somewhere quiet at their leisure.

  • I hold keys for quite a few of my neighbours. I wouldn't have thought a key safe on the outside of the building was a good idea at all. We all lock ourselves out from time to time but even a keyholder a number of miles away is better than a vunerable key safe easily identified with the building. Possibly better under a plant pot or bin or in the wheel arch of a car etc. Really just needs your GF to be a bit more careful too.

  • Really just needs your GF to be a bit more careful too.

    Well, yes. You are welcome to come and tell her that ;)

  • The neighbours have a key but they are out :(

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Home DIY

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