Motorcycle and Scooter appreciation

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  • These are great too.


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  • Mad looks, quite like it. A pothole could take that belly pan right off though!

  • ... or leave it outside. Or use it too much. Or have to replace the parts with carefully sourced OEM originals.

    Lots of reasons really, but not least because the OG ones are 30yo.

    Even including that expensive bodykit, a GS1200 is still probably 30%-50% cheaper. And let's be honest, a 5-10yo GS1200 has done most of it's depreciating, whilst still being rock solid, tried and tested bike.

    The main thing that attracted me tho was that it was a GS that looked cool rather than the usual mid-life crises WITH ALL THE ACCESSORIES and a Polite hi-vis.

  • Rad!

    It works so well too. I'd never really noticed bodykits on bikes before (asides from all the kitch café stuff). They make more sense to me than car ones.

  • I know the bikes pretty well. My 40 year old takes a bit of fettling but parts are easy. I think £8-10k gets you a really nice GS, they are great engines and the skill to get them running well and keep the running well is something anyone can learn.

    The more recent BMW I had was the R1150 and the low speed fuelling issues in that model were really unpleasant, they are more efficient and much more powerful but you have to put up with the electronics controlling things a bit.

    I should have made my reply a bit more general, I just meant that if the looks of the older model are what one wants one should not shy away from pursuing that as the reality of living with one is pretty pleasant. :)

  • I guess the RNine T is designed to appeal to people who want to create or recreate the looks with kit parts. They've been coming up with some great versions. The RNine T Urban GS looks pretty decent.

    https://www.bmw-motorrad.co.uk/en/models­/heritage/rnineturbangs.html

  • Update on the CBT thing. When I spoke to them on the phone, I expressed that I wanted to do a full DAS and didn’t want to rush. Going from zero motor experience, I want to do things properly not quickly. I was booked for Tuesday but it got bumped to today due to unforeseens.

    This morning the guy said especially if the plan was a DAS, then rather than rushing the minimum levels of competence, get all the basics down as good as possible. I decided I was happier taking longer in the small carpark to go from zero experience to a small level of competence, then do the on-road another day.

    Did almost every manoeuvre, including a number like U-turns in very narrow cones closer to real lane width. Took way longer than I anticipated to train the hands/feet coordination. After a few hours it’s amazing how much less daunting feathering a clutch or shifting first into second can be. Lots and lots of slow slow riding practice, keeping steering steady while lifesaver-ing. Lots of ‘bollocks!’ releasing the clutch and stalling, distracted by visualising junction line and thinking front brake rear brake road position first gear and all in the wrong order.

    No whiskey throttling, no bike dropping, only one tiny skid on emergency stop practice, and no moments of panic. But, no on-road yet either.

    Got the on-road for Friday morning for as long as necessary, still nervous about that as feeling a bit fingers and thumbs. Could do with a dummy cockpit (to practice while watching the tv), it’s grabbing the front lever and not revving the engine that’s my biggest hurdle. I hate that lever, doesn’t feel right.

    But woah, after all day my head was full. My body lacked any coordination by the time I got home! Exhausted!

  • Good work fella. Don't pressure yourself too much, it'll all come together. What are you riding? Try braking with two fingers if the stoppers are up to it, gives you a bit more control of the throttle.

  • Good luck with on the road riding. I got the full license in the summer, almost no motorbike experience but been driving a car for years so I guess that helped a bit.

    Getting used to controlling the bike while paying attention to all that is going on around you is tough, but as you get used to the controls it gets easier, though will still catch you out occasionally.

    For stopping and using the front brake you need to physically turn to shut the throttle and then apply the brake. For me it is like three actions, close throttle, start to squeeze lever to let the brake bite and the front suspension to compress then brake further if or as you need.

    Still making mistakes but think its one of the best things I have done. Now ride nearly every day.

  • @Jung I forgot to make note of what the little 125 is that I’ve been learning on, with everything I was learning the bike model wasn’t information I retained! But the learner 600 is some kinda Suzuki once I get past this level and get started on the DAS.

    I was warned against two fingers, something about it being a fail in a test now. But also to get out the habit of reaching with two from bicycle riding - either throttle, or brake, not both. So yup like you say @Tosh I must train my muscles to roll off, then reach, then squeeze without twisting and rolling back again.

    Getting excited for Friday, just to get stuck back in.

  • Aye you can cover the brake with your foot so no need to have two fingers on the lever. Whilst training for your test at least.

    Well done dude

  • I do occasionally deliberately front brake whilst maintaining throttle, usually where a gentle roll-off would work to moderate speed but I want the brake lights to come on for the person following.
    Also before low-speed downhill corners (with clutch slip) as the fuelling is a bit snatchy at the low end of the throttle.
    No idea of the test-appropriate status of either though!

  • This is common practice, most MC have enough engine braking that for just pottering about you barely use the brakes, easier to drag rear brake though and with winter gloves on less chance for snatchy throttle input as you drag the brake lever.
    I think advanced motor group people teach that? At regular bike license level they probably advise it, but don't require it.

  • What high temperature grease for motorcycle brake caliper pins?

    (Something easily obtained online in the UK)

    Was thinking about this:
    ProSlip Brake Grease Kit - OEM Caliper Pin Grease

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07886FP12/r­ef=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_3Je0DbM1TP0AR


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  • See, this is the problem with shit like this. Now I want one and a bunch of other bikes to tinker with.

  • I use cera tec, can get it at most motor factors, about £6 a tube which will prob last long enough to loose it before it runs out. Also yamalube lical is a high enough temp waterproof grease designed for outboard motor applications, i use it for head bearings, esp where the frame gets hot (oil in frame bikes).

  • Now lets have a long discussion about caliper pins and brake pads. ;)

    What brake system, tokico, nissin meh. How is the pin held in place.

    Having been through this shite with MK1 MR2 rear calipers and bindit front calipers. There are a few differing types.

    Ceratec was made as copper grease (metal/magnetic content) can affect abs sensors. Ceratec has no metallic/magnetic content.

  • CSB Update!!

    I now hold a CBT in my mitts! I don’t think this should be so freely handed to any little scrote after a morning’s riding and a U-turn, but I suppose that’s on the head of the various training bodies across the country to make that call.

    The CBT took til lunchtime today, as it was broken into sessions. I’ve apparently met and surpassed all the necessary standards, so in good position for a DAS.

    Wednesday last week was the first time I’d ever even sat on a motorbike, no mean feat to get the confidence to go around 45mph on a little 125cc. Wednesday was basic manoeuvres in the car park. I really didn’t like shifting though - foot was slipping in the flat crepe-soled boots and the shifting felt bad. It was a late start and a few delays so no point going on the road.

    Thursday I went to the huge ass warehouse-sized moto kit shop here in Swindon and spent probably 4 hours in there. Exhausting. No way I could trust riding on the road without proper kit, and since I plan on going DAS then better start from day one (/two) in correct kit.

    Took ages, trying so much kit to see what felt best. Ten mins or so in each helmet to check for fit and comfort. Eventually I went for an HJC flip-front for comfort and glad I did. Apart from the weight penalty it’s just so much nicer. RST boots and “pro-series” jacket and trousers too. All the armour, all the insulation, and confidence if I spill.

    So anyway Friday first another practice in the car-park to try get used to riding in boots, but still the shifting felt bad. Once on the road I got flustered a couple times, especially since it was getting to lunch time. Around 40 mins on the road, and two stalls I think. One before and one after a junction. By the second it was clear I needed to shake it out. After lunch another 30-40 minutes that felt better but not great. U-turn and emergency stop easily ticked off, but it was getting to kids kick-out time so we postponed the rest til today.

    Today was a massive improvement. The time to let it all sink in, felt like a different rider.

    Before we started, the shifter had already been hammered back out, and then I moaned the position of the peg, it was also dented so that got hammered back. Then suddenly shifting felt a whole lot better. I suppose when it last got dropped by a student (not me!) it was all dented inward too much.

    An hour and a half non-stop, getting up to 40 on the dual carriageway and over 45mph once we were out on (50) country roads. Nearly made it back without stalling once, but just ran out of revs when holding it steady waiting to join on a roundabout, was in too high a gear. Car went round way slower than necessary and I ran out of throttle to ease off!

    When we got back I had 10 or 15 mins in the carpark on the 600. Felt amazing. All the controls felt more positive, but instant arm-ache from the weight!

    Anyway. Theory test booked for the 3rd December (earliest available date), and then if I pass it I’ll have an ‘assessment’ on the 600 and get started on training properly.


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  • Reminds me of the excitement when I learnt! Congrats.

    And the weight shouldn't be an arm ache, perhaps you were tensing.

  • I remember the first time I let out the clutch on a 600, it felt so powerful. Good luck with the theory, sounds like you will find it easier than you think. You'll be a biker in time for spring.

  • Yea it was literally just the weight of the steering on my skinny arms, having just jumped off a Yamaha 125 lawnmower. All the nerves have gone now!

    I’d already ordered Motorcycle Roadcraft Police Rider’s Handbook, Lee Parks’ Total Control, and the Twist of the Wrist books. When I’m learning I need to understand why/how, remove the uncertainty of something before putting it into practice. Lots of great reading to do before I can next jump on a bike.

  • You’re right. It’s so great. Watching how quickly those revs go up, and how smooth. It felt effortless compared to bullying a small engine into doing some work. I think if I was only planning commuting and not touring then a 125 would be easy to nip around on.

    Tried the online theory practices and got 48/50. More concerned about the notoriously bad hazard perception software.

  • You really start learning once you pass your test. Had a friend who passed and had a SV1000 waiting. Went out for the first ride and found out very quickly that he'd not yet learnt to ride round a roundabout at speed. He bottled it and nearly crashed into the pavement. :0

  • Good innit. Have fun.

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Motorcycle and Scooter appreciation

Posted by Avatar for coppiThat @coppiThat

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