Stainless is not a good brake material, you want high chromium steel.
These guys might be able to help. They're in London and make everything themselves, for pretty reasonable prices too.
Apparently even Brembo are using a hi carbon stainless on their stuff these days? Used to be stainless was shite?
Yet BMW had stainless front disks for donkeys years. Everyone complains about them though.
I’m on the cheap hence wanting to find something standard to use.
It’s the Guzzi V50.
Just ride slower :)
Problem with improving the brakes on some bike designs, the front tyre gives out before the back wheel lifts.
It seems that stainless rotors are not an upgrade so that’s not gonna be a problem?
Anyone else done it?
Tyre materials have moved on a great deal, so that shouldn't be a problem.
I tried to squeeze the yard owner some more, but he’s adamant that he’ll get good money at auction as-is. So i took a couple more photos before it gets gone. Apparently he’s got a big collection (hundreds of bikes) so he isn’t without knowledge on the current trends.
Not that i know of, no.
Did a search for customised bikes V50ies too, but didn't find any with non stock rotors...
I'd rather not test the theory on the R80 or V50, seems very unlikely that either would lift the back wheel with most tyre choices even the newer designs. I would like to see a picture of an unmolested R80 doing a stoppie at a normal road junction though.
Reminds me of the Honda Express. they fetch some money in good nick.
Definitely a challenge. I used to be a bit of a stoppie expert. Anything long and low is hard.
Don't V50s have linked brakes anyway?
Yeah, foot brake is linked one front+ rear in some ratio. Brake lever is the other front disc.
I don't do stoppies either.
I know some of the shoppers are attractive to be modified but that is one sad looking little bike. I guess less than £100?
Seized swing arm bolt, or rather bolt now spinning easy thanks to a high powered facom impact wrench and some kroil. It moves in and out of the frame around 3 to 4mm then stuck fast.
Steel bolt with steel bush's slid over, then needle bearings with fibre seal washers either side, 4 sets of them. Through frame and through gearbox casing.
So imagine the inner bearing surface vs the Bush is free, but the Bush needs to be free from the bolt and that's the tiny bit of movement I have.
Been soaking with rags around it as best possible with Kroil (acetone and atf pretty much).
Suggestions? Swingarm and bolt seem to be OK, it's just the corrosion forming a strong bond. Tried much hammer action with everything upto a sledgehammer and a variety of air hammers.
Suspect I've now flared the bolt shaft diameter out on one side so it'll never come back out again. Thought of maybe drilling and tapping an m12 hole in one end (have a large slide hammer that's m12 end) and see if pulling it out is better than hitting it out.
Last chnace is to cut up the perfectly functioning swung arm into pieces so I can get an angle grinder or death wheel into the area to chop the bolt. Or am I missing an obvious solution no
I wish. At £100 I’d have brought it home on the cargo bike. The guy is adding a digit to that, if sold on the right day at auction. I don’t doubt he’ll get more than its worth, because he can afford to wait.
Yeah, I wish him luck. Maybe a couple of hundred.
For a grand, tell me that's running nitro and manages a 1.5 sec 0-60. Thanks for the laugh, I needed it today :)
A grand for that one in the picture????
A grand for ‘similar’ step-thru small-bikes due to their rarity, etc etc. That’s what he said, not my personal opinion. However in any condition they are pretty rare to come across. An Express missing parts in “restoration project” condition is nearly 5 ton in Bristol on ebay classifieds.
If I had a grand I’d find myself a Royal Enfield and make do. Definitely not run a Yama lawnmower.
Amusing if real etc
Fear the skid demon
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