Miche Primato Hub Bearings

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  • Word to the wise. I was just about to go down the same route as the OP and rang LBB to order these:

    The replacement 6001 2RS2 C3 NKE silicon nitride bearing is sealed both sides and was supplied by City Belts and Bearings, 260-266 York Way, N7 9PQ (0207 490 1111) and cost £8.90 + Vat and they keep them in stock. These are about the cheapest I have found

    They're now £15.50 each plus a tenner for delivery plus VAT. £82!

    The fucking hubs cost me £50 I think. Fuck that!

  • *answers own question


    *forvever alone

  • although i actually SPLURGED (easy ladies) on £6 stainless steel versions


    cos that's how I roll.

  • I fitted enduro ceramic hybrid bearings last year to my miche hubs, they lasted around a month in the rear hub, used twice a week at the track. probably damaged when fitted, ceramic bearings dont like rubber mallets!

    taking them out I ruined one side of the hub, inside. was using a screwdriver and got a bit aggressive...

    has anyone used 7001 angular contact bearings in miche hubs? in theory they should work fine, tho with better locknuts as the originals dont seem to hold tight so well. I think that was a problem with the last gen of Surly hubs and their new hubs they switched to standard single row bearings

  • these'll do nicely right?


    Used them a few weeks ago. All good. PITA to get the old ones out though

  • Dredge!

    I had ‘fun’ replacing a set of these tonight.

    I drove a 13mm washer through the centre of the old, seated bearing, then (with the wheel flipped) knocked that washer out, pushing the bearing with it.

    You need a bar/long-bolt of some kind and I used a thick aluminium washer (possibly better described as a spacer I guess).

  • Thought I’d re-dredge this thread instead of starting a new one.

    Bought a very cheap rear wheel to use fixed on the turbo. I knew the bearings were shot and I managed to remove one of them (with a diy bearing puller). When I tried to get the other out, the inner bit must have been cracked as it popped in half and all the bearings came out. Now I have the outer sleeve stuck in the hub and I can’t get any purchase on it - see photo.

    It’s already got a Miche sprocket carrier that will not come off, plus a broken spoke, so I’m close to ditching the wheel, but has anyone got any ideas as a last ditch?

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  • Pour boiling water over the shell a few times. The inner race will almost fall out.

    Do you have the tool for removing the sprocket carrier. Plus gas is your friend and the boiling water might help. In fact heat and freeze with freeze spray. It will come off.

  • I don't have the tool for the carrier, but I tried a chain whip with the sprocket on (and the lock ring very loosely on, just so the sprocket couldn't come out of engagement). I also tried a normal lock ring tool that gripped on to it ok, but it just would not budge. I'll give the boiling water thing a go and see if that works - cheers!

  • For the sprocket carrier, build it up with the sprocket and lockring loosely fitted, put a tyre and tube on and pump them up nice n hard then get your chainwhip set up on it.

    Hold the chainwhip parallel to the ground in your right hand and hold the opposite side of wheel in your left hand, pick everything up and then slam it back down into the ground.

    You might need to repeat once or twice but it will move.

  • I did try that and I ended up bending the chain pin that connects the chain to the chainwhip body! I’m going to take out that link and combine with the boiling water technique and see where that gets me.

    A hernia probably :-)

  • Update: managed to get the sprocket carrier off with hot water and a good wrench of the lock ring spanner! Still no movement from the outer sleeve of the bearing, after several kettles.

    I’m glad this was only ever meant to be a turbo wheel as I’ve probably mistreated the hub enough to make me feel nervous about riding it!

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Miche Primato Hub Bearings

Posted by Avatar for finepics @finepics