Dynamo Lights

Posted on
Page
of 162
First Prev
/ 162
  • not for my bike, for my missus' town bike.
    might chase a supernova rear, and put the front on my brompton, and just get her a cheaper B+M front and rear that play nice together as it'll be only slightly more expensive than getting a supernova rear.

  • If you connect it in parallel with the dynamo it'll work. Though no switch.

    If you connect it to the output of the supernova it may or may not work. If it does work you'll get standlight power from both the front light's capacitor and the one built-in to the rear light.

  • Anyone actually used silicon sealant to attach rear dyno wire to the downtube / chainstay? Seen mention of it but no photos. Tape the wire to the frame at intervals, lay a bead of adhesive along it, remove tape when set. Apparently it'll just peel off the paint clean if you ever needed to remove. I'm going to get a tube and test a spot.

  • I still think Di2 housing and/or and old tube is better. Gonna peel the paint?!! Avoid right?

  • Er the silicon peels away from the paint, not peel the paint off. Stupid English. Definitely wouldn't want that! I got some adhesive cable guides as a backup plan.

  • Rookie question but I've been searching online for a couple of hours and am now thoroughly confused...

    If I buy THIS front light, what wires / fixings / connectors / plugs etc do I need to run it to THIS rear light?

    Do I need to be brand-specific to B&M?
    Do I need 'single' wire or 'double' wire?
    Do I need to buy the little paddle connector things separately?

    Or will everything I need come with the light from the nice people at Spa Cycles?

    I have routing on the frame and know where the wires will run... the question is purely about what wires and stuff I need : )


    1 Attachment

    • BIG WHITE copy 2.jpg
  • The rear light you've linked to appears to be the e-bike version, which will not work.

    Both lights will come with short flying leads poking out the back like so with spade connectors (NB link is also the ebike version!):
    https://fahrrad-teile.shop/fahrradzubeho­er/beleuchtung/ruecklicht/29407/b-m-ruec­klicht-e-fuer-e-bike-schwarz

    The cable you need between the two is typically bundled with the rear light - check with the supplier. It needs to be double core. You'll need spade connectors (or rather, the female equivalent of a spade is, which is also called a spade) for both ends, which again, should be bundled.

  • Thank you! I think I understand it now.

    The rear light you've linked to appears to be the e-bike version, which will not work.

    Well spotted!

    In real life I have the dynamo hub version.
    The rear does indeed come with two little spade things on wires.
    I have a cable that either came with my old front light or with this rear light.. but either way is too short.

    Thanks again : )

  • Yeah I did, post here: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/14710155/­

    How to here:
    https://www.lfgss.com/comments/14710236/­

    Used an exposure Revo though, so was a lot easier as the output to the rear light is DC. With most other dynamo lights the output is AC, so you'd also have to introduce a bridge rectifier to the set up to convert to DC.

  • Food for thought.

    Appreciated. Thanks.

  • bikester have big discounts on dynamo lights, especially on supernova front and rears, so if you're looking for some now's the chance to get them, today's the last day I think!

  • Has anyone had any experience with B&M warranty?
    I've just got around to putting my iq2 Luxos U back on for winter and both of the input spades on the back of the light unit have snapped (they look corroded) when attaching the cable. It's a bit of a crap design, despite being careful and having only plugged/unplugged the light probably half a dozen times max since I've had it, they both broke easily. I'm aware that they might just tell me it's user error.. It does look like I could bodge/Dremel the connectors and attach the wire directly without the spade connectors.

    Bought Aug 2018 from Bike-Discount.de, I guess they're my first port of call, not hopeful though.

  • I've had one snap off, only a bit though (up to the hole) and managed to keep it running OK.

    My experience with a Luxos U that went mad after water ingress was that B&M replaced it with no questions - they obviously know it's a flawed design. Give it a try. Prblem is, bikediscount.de are no longer trading with UK customers, I think?

  • Amba is Uk distributor of B&M. I’ve had a light with them for warranty since July though… called and apparently they’ve been very busy so don’t expect a quick turnaround.

  • Thanks both, I'll drop Bike Discount an email and see if I get anywhere. In the mean time I've pulled the light unit apart and it looks like some careful dremel action will make it possible to get the wire directly attached to what's left of the spades. Unfortunately I don't have a soldering iron..

    Annoying that the connections are such a weak point on a £150 light.

  • Silicone seems good. I just did a bead of it on one side and set overnight. It rubs off pretty easy if I wanted to replace in future. If this doesn't hold perfectly I'll run another bead along the other side of the wire too.


    3 Attachments

    • PXL_20211204_154312929.jpg
    • PXL_20211204_155810276.jpg
    • PXL_20211204_155848553.jpg
  • I've had a B&M Lumotec Cyo Premium that I got used 1.5 years ago. I recently switched which bike it was on, and realized I had been running the polarity backwards all this time .... Does this make a difference? Could it be why the standlight no longer works at all? It does also seem a bit dimmer than when I first used it, but that could be my imagination.

  • Polarity is a hangover from when the frame and bracket was used as one of the wires. If you've got two wires it makes no difference. It actually says "No earth connection possible via the bracket" in the manual so it's irrelevant.

    Standlight not working is typical B+M. Probably the (heavy) capacitor has fallen off the circuit board.

  • @IrPOWERranger and @Thrasher thanks for giving bikester the vote of confidence got first part of order super quickly after ordering.
    Awaiting second part, but assuming it’ll come this coming week..

  • Yep means I can build Brompton front Dynamo wheel, and then take Brompton in to lbs, so they replace rear triangle, fit lights and run cable front to back..

    And then fit replacement lights and run cable on the missus town bike..

  • Awesome, it was on a 2-wire setup so i guess it's fine. With some extra thought, probably it seemed brighter because it used to be on the cargo bike with a 20" dynamo wheel...
    Switched it to my touring bike which still has a 1-wire taillight, so had to actually pay attention this round.

    If anyone's looking for a new light, I also just installed a Herrman's H-Black MR8. Only ridden it in the city on the cargo bike, but seems pretty decent. Somewhat wider beam pattern than the Lumotec. overall finish feels a bit cheaper than the Lumotec, but as long as it keeps the water out it should be fine.
    Unfortunately the mount is a bit funny, I couldn't figure out a reasonable way to make it work with cantis on the touring bike as intended, so had to switch a few lights around.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Dynamo Lights

Posted by Avatar for hugo7 @hugo7

Actions