I’ve always felt a bit weird about putting a light on a chain stay where it can be obscured by a wheel (from certain angles). It is a very neat solution though.
Steel, got loads, message if you want one
What's the output on an IQ-X, DC or AC? Would I be able to wire up one of those E3s to it without the E3 flickering?
Nop. It is a B&M afterall...
It's fine and doesn't flicker, but you won't have a stand light. (my setup is B&M Cyo Premium blablabla at the front and Supernova E3 at the back)
Me too. Also in this instance a light that small would surely be better on the mudguard.
Put one on each stay?
Anyway have any experience with the KT branded dynamo hubs? Shell looks like a similar design to SP? https://www.kttw-hub.com/pro.php?m=l&f=4&cid=12
Or at least mount it on the rack mount higher up the seat stay. It’s un obscured there and less cable required.
Currently wiring my B&M IQ-XS to my Shimano hub and a bit frustrated with the complete lack of instructions for wiring. Seems to assume a base level of electrical competency that I do not have.
Seem to have the plug part connected okay, and the wires running to the rear light, but connecting the wires to the front lamp I'm not so confident about. What are these bits and do I need them all?
I've connected A just by guesswork and it seems to have worked, but not sure what the little hole is for on the metal connector or if I've done it right.
No idea what the two bronze connector things are at C, and I guess D is a protective cover for some part but the way I've installed at A it doesn't seem to stretch over the the black connector B to cover it.
Help please I am useless. Thanks.
You put the ends of the cable into C and crimp C around the cable. Don't use to much force, the little tabs can break.
Then you plug those silver things into the golden things.
If D is a soft tube, as in heat shrink, put it over the cable before attaching C, when you have plugged the stuff together slide it over the joint, heat it slightly, it shrinks and protects the connection.
Make sure you have all the cables where you want them on the bike and in the length you need them before you do this.
I think B are things that go around the cable into your back light somehow.
Just realized that I think the cables with plugs are the ones for the back light, and the ones with no plugs the ones going to the hub.
So longish cable from lamp goes to hub dynamo, back light goes onto plugs.
If none of that makes sense that either means I should be in bed, or you need to watch videos/let someone else do it.
The bricks at A look like thingies that go into tool-free wire crimp connectors on the rear light. Basically you shove the bare wires through the hole, then shove the plastic bit into a hole on the rear light. Rear lights that use this system usually also have standard spade connectors too. You can use either.
If your rear light cable already has plugs on the other end, you can probably reverse it and use the plugs to connect to the head light and use the tool-free connectors on the rear light for the bare ends. That would save messing about with crimps and heat shrink.
You’ve got it.
Here are the instructions.
If you need I could do some photos. Although, from memory, I don’t have a short lead on the front light I just have a couple of spade connectors. The little black plugs are to connect the cable to the rear light as suggested by @grams
Thanks for confirming, was a bit late.
Thanks all for your help.
A is just my badly assembled wire + B + D - I have the brick connector set up at the dynamo end okay, I think
Hi all - whats the best dynamo light for around £50? going to be running it with a SP front hub on a calliper brake bike...
Cheers in advance
This, for £50
Cheers! ordered from bike-discount £48 posted @amey
ah man, if you were in palestra we would've combined postage
Well I am back there now (contracting) 😬 shoulda-coulda-next time! mother-in-law needed to know what my ‘secret Santa’ present should be by today...
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