Any question answered...

Keep-on Kovers, just found the name.

What does "DAS'd" mean? I've seen it a lot in the Spotted thread.

Do A Skid'd.

Basically when someone tell you to do a skid, you need to shit yourself.

Do A Skid'd.

Basically when someone tell you to do a skid, you need to shit yourself.
Thank-you Ed! Have some rep.

ok, so LDA vs CDA

CDA, dependent on substrata, may be more economical and less intrusive. LDA for variable conditions.

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/engineering/geotech/pubs/gec8/02.cfmk

slightly OT here:
why would anyone in the UK use open bored concrete piles rather than continuous flight augered ones? is there any benefit - how common is it to require reinforcement in piles?

Ground conditions?

With CFA you have to screw the whole auger all the way in in one go. Then pull the whole column of earth out in one go. With open bored piles you can auger a bit, lift the spoil out, auger a bit more, drill the casing in a bit further.

Think it would be quite hard to construct secant plied walls with CFA too.

^^ link to page not found.
but thanks, I think I get the idea.

^^ interesting, thanks.
found this site quite useful http://www.bacsol.co.uk/index.php/techniques/cfa_piling/

Keep-on Kovers, just found the name.

they're pricey and I'm cheap.

i've just built some wheels using Rigida Chrina rims, they are a nightmare to get tyres on compared to the mavic and DT swiss rims i've used in the past.

Can anyone recommend a tyre which is easy to fit?
I've tried michelin pro3/pro4 and lithions and specialized turbos and snapped 2 tyre levers in the process.

Would using veloplugs rather than rim tape help?

Just stick with a tyre you like and keep at it.

It's common with Chrinas, there's no real well between the bead seats (cf. Mavic Open Sport)

However, good technique and a shot of HTFU will get all but the most recalcitrant tyres onto them with very little swearing and almost no loss of skin.

Will review later. Potential rep on its way.

This would be my recommended route.

Just stick with a tyre you like and keep at it.

It's common with Chrinas, there's no real well between the bead seats (cf. Mavic Open Sport)

However, good technique and a shot of HTFU will get all but the most recalcitrant tyres onto them with very little swearing and almost no loss of skin.

Cheers guys, I noted the lack of a well which is why I wondered if veloplugs might take up less space than a rim tape.

I have got every tyre i've tried onto the rims so far but not without a more significant risk of pinching the tube than i'd like.

Do Sram still make silver Rival? Or any other groupsets for that matter.

No,and they only made it for a while afaik, which is a shame because it looked great. I hope I'm wrong though, but I've only seen silver rival a few times and not recently.

they're pricey and I'm cheap.

Yet you still ride speedplay? >>

they're pricey and I'm cheap.

Don't walk in Speedplay. Sorted.

if using a 46-34 chainring combo, would I be able to use a 12-32 cassette without issue on a sram rival mech?

Wouldn't you need the wifli climbing rear derailleur?

normally, but with smaller chainrings at the front theres less chain to pull

i've just built some wheels using Rigida Chrina rims, they are a nightmare to get tyres on compared to the mavic and DT swiss rims i've used in the past.

Can anyone recommend a tyre which is easy to fit?
I've tried michelin pro3/pro4 and lithions and specialized turbos and snapped 2 tyre levers in the process.

Would using veloplugs rather than rim tape help?

Just stick with a tyre you like and keep at it.

It's common with Chrinas, there's no real well between the bead seats (cf. Mavic Open Sport)

However, good technique and a shot of HTFU will get all but the most recalcitrant tyres onto them with very little swearing and almost no loss of skin.

get a bead jack

normally, but with smaller chainrings at the front theres less chain to pull

You need wifli because of the size of the biggest sprocket, not just for the extra total capacity.

fairs, cheers

So some of you might remember I was asking about my mysterious punctures situation a week or so ago. Thanks to the replies from folks here and other friends, we have come to a conclusion that it's the Specialized tubes that caused the problems. To cut a long story short...er... I have spoken to the guys from Specialized US and they have agreed to give me some replacement tubes but I would have to do so through the UK guys, fair do. Have just spoken to the guys here in the UK, they wanted me to send in all the problem tubes, which I don't have all of them anymore, and also proof of purchase that I also don't have anymore. Who would envisage problems with inner tubes and therefore keep all receipts?

They said they will look into possibly giving me some replacements. Is it really worth doing? Just that postage isn't cheap these days and a couple of inner tubes would cost me about £3 and I am wondering what are the chances of them giving me anything in return? It's about 6 tubes that busted in total and I doubt they would just take my word for it. I asked if I could just go to a Specialized Concept stores, like if you have a problem with a iPhone, you would go to an Apple Store, right? They said no as they don't just hand out inner tubes for free... (this bit really pissed me off, actually.)

Nah. Put it down to experience and walk away. Why would you want to chase them for more duff tubes? They've been terrible / faulty for many years, it's not a bad batch.