Any question answered...

Posted on
Page
of 4,457
First Prev
/ 4,457
Last Next
  • The ball-o-fix are prone to leaking, replacement is easy as long as you can turn off the main cold water supply. In London that is often in a box in the street but occasionally it's concealed indoors or the street stopcock is not working/accessible for some reason.

  • Compression fittings need everything to be absolutely perfect or they just won’t seal. Check there’s no debris or corrosion on the mating surfaces first. Clean it up with wire wool if you need to. Then a couple of turns of PTFE tape round the olives and re-assemble and it ought to seal it if that’s where the leak is.

    Also, as mentioned above, the ball in those isolators are notoriously prone to failure and leaking. Try the joint first, but you might just need to get another one from Wickes/B&Q/Screwfix/Plumbase/Homebase etc. Then make sure you re-assemble it with PTFE tape so you don’t have to take it off again.

  • Anyone know a place in Central or North London that repairs rucksacks? Got a Dakine snowboarding daypack that didn't quite survive a pile-up and seems a shame to chuck it when 90% of the bag is fine.


    1 Attachment

    • 20211107_010750.jpg
  • Quite far north but have used zip experts to repair a load of bags and they were reasonably priced and did a good job

  • Ah cheers, I'm in Tottenham so it's not too far at all for me

  • Slightly out of the loop with these things... is there a good central place to check/book 2022 cycle sportives?

  • Is there an easy way to re-harden the copper rivets that I heated up to stamp an initial into the end? When I try to seat the washer over them, the soft fuckers just bend.

    In hindsight this was a bad plan.

  • Is there an easy way to re-harden the copper

    Nah. Copper work hardens, which is a problem to be overcome until you do the last forming step, a rivet head being a case in point. You need to change the shape substantially to work harden it again.

  • Which metals, other than copper and titanium, much like the most professional porn stars, don't need fluffers and work harden?

  • Ah, that link says and doesn't include titanium, maybe the alloy of it I was bending work hardened or the person that told me it did was wrong.

  • I should learn more metallurgy stuff, work hardening too much can be bad which is why alu stuff can crack, so the Ti thing I was bending under reassurance that it work hardens so should be fine to bend back cold was a mech hanger but that could lead to the same failures alu hangers have.

  • Ok, that's reassuring to hear. Thank you. Don't seem to have much pain, and movement is good so fingers crossed when it comes to the scan.

  • Has anyone proofed their kit to avoid bed bugs?

    Any brands used?

    I am travelling next week and need to soak everything I own in permethrin, but failing to find a reputable brand that isn’t £50 per 0.0001%

  • TL:Dr at the end but it's a dull 'what do I buy' query.

    I have a car. It doesn't appear to have any kind of phone calling ability. It doesn't have Bluetooth.

    I currently listen to podcasts by plugging my phone (a Google Pixel 5) via a usb-c to aux adapter and into the aux input of the car. However this takes up the usb slot of the phone and means I can't keep it charged as I drive. On some journeys I use Google maps on the phone for direction (visual rather than audio directions).

    Because I like to look a the map I have the phone mounted on the dash but the aux input is down in the centre storage box behind the handbrake.

    So if it's playing music or podcasts it's in a tricky location to reach and not charging. If it's in map mode and charging it's at the front I can't listen to podcasts.

    I'd like the option to have the car charging up at the front and also playing podcasts. I presume I can achieve this with some sort of Bluetooth to aux adapter. So I plug a small Bluetooth dongle into the aux port, tuck it away in the glovebox, and then plug the phone in the USB slot in the cigarette lighter/charger adapter thing. Then connect over Bluetooth and edscoble is an uncle? Is there a better system? Is there a way to do some kind of hands free calls on a similar system? How much would it cost to add a permanent Bluetooth including microphones for phone calls (and some other bits like a rearview camera) to the car instead?

    Tl:Dr would like a solution to play music in a car from a phone over Bluetooth to aux? Or Bluetooth to FM though that sounds more of a hassle.

  • https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Soundsync­-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H­5C2BQX/ref=asc_df_B07H5C2BQX/

    This gets good reviews and i've never had an issue with Anker products. Might need to be charging all the time to get the best user experience looking at the reviews.

    The best solution would be an aftermarket headunit with android auto etc but thats going to be 10x the price

  • Thanks - I presume a head unit isn't something like this:

    Edit: actually looks like a 'head unit' (never heard them called this, so thanks again) might be viable - I don't mind paying a few hundred if it'd work as seems I can get one with all sorts of maps, bluetooth, phone, spotify etc all built in which sounds like it could be worth it.

  • The other option is a USB audio adapter with power pass through. Perhaps something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B081455PCT/

  • Thanks - I did try something like that in the past but had some hurdles with my particular phone. Can't recall reason but looked it up when I ran into trouble and others reported same issue. Also wary of trailing cables where the gear stick is, running from aux to dash. Think I'll try that Anker bluetooth thing above for this week while I research which head unit could work.

  • wary of trailing cables where the gear stick is

    Obviously the solution is to buy a new electric car, that dispenses with the gear stick and it will also come with a built in nav screen and Bluetooth hands free/audio connection.

  • I used one of those Anker chaps in my last car, which didn’t have Bluetooth. Worked fine - no connection issues at all. I just left it plugged in as I had a usb charger thing located where I could just pop the whole thing in the change tray and forget about it. Only thing was that you need to turn it on every time you get back in the car - it didn’t automatically wake and connect. Mildly annoying but actually my current cars head unit is even more of a faff with Bluetooth connections so I’m tempted to start using the anker again.

  • If you get one with Android Auto all of the maps, spotify etc still run on your phone and the radio just acts as an external screen for them (with a car-specific user interface), so the radio doesn't need to know anything about them. The audio also goes down the USB cable. They start around £200.

    (there are cheaper no names ones from £50, which work but are hella flakey)

  • While I contemplate an incredibly seized bolt on the derailleur I was planning on using, could anyone let me know if an Altus M370 rear derailleur will work with some 9 speed Tiagra drop bar shifters?

  • Altus M370 rear derailleur will work with some 9 speed Tiagra drop bar shifters?

    Yes

  • Wonderful, thanks

  • What’s going on here? I can only see it on the results page - a google thing, or chrome, or ipad?


    1 Attachment

    • 16838E36-0C2C-413E-AA21-F02629B90663.jpeg
  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

Actions