Any question answered...

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  • I'm not an employee but will be a independent contractor (sole trader), so I've been advised I need to arrange my own insurance that will cover me to drive any of their fleet of vehicles.

    Call the car club and get them to point you towards a suitable policy.

  • Thanks yes that's probably the best bet to avoid the trauma, bat it right back at them!

  • In a pinch, I’d say try it. Inflate and check the width of the tube at the valve; if it’s narrower than the rest of the tyre, then the tube is too narrow.

  • What about 15x110mm? Closer to 120. Just didn’t know whether the chain line is different

    If you're adding to the OLN, it doesn't matter whether it's +10mm or +20mm (or even more for converting old road frames)
    Native chainline on a 15×100 is 41.5mm, so you don't really have to do anything if you're using track cranks, but you can slide the hub to the right to get a 47mm chainline to go with road cranks and that usually makes the spoke bracing angle symmetrical, or at least closer than it was.
    15×110 works well with road cranks, it's natively 46.5mm chainline so your conversion is symmetrical (I've got a factory Boost wheel in my 464, no re-dishing required), but with track cranks you'd have to move the hub to the left and you lose the main point of Boost hubs.

  • @dimi3 used to do some work for a car club, he may be able to advise, although he does own a car so it may have been covered by that.

  • Is it for Mobool? I don't know what changed, but before when we did the same with DriveNow you were covered by carclub's insurance and Mobool used to have an insurance too, to cover any damages to cars. Are you sure they don't mean insurance for yourself in case something happens while you're riding?

  • Thanks for the reply Dimi3. Its not for Mobool or DriveNnow its for another one. Thanks as I will now have a look at how the other car clubs operate as a comparison.

    All their own staff are on the company insurance, but external contractors have been asked to get their own insurance if expected to do long term work, which I am. I have separate Public Liability Insurance to cover the other stuff, but have been asked to arrange separate cover just for the driving element.

    I think I'll have a look at other car club T&C's to see if what I've being asked to do is inline with others, and as suggested before go back to the car club and ask their insurers for any pointers for outfits that offer the policy they want.

    I'm just desperate to avoid a day dealing with puzzled call centre insurance droids and getting nowhere, thanks.

  • Well the first item arrive yesterday and is exactly what I thought i was getting. It probably helps that I was buying 'normal boring items' at slightly less inflated covid prices, rather than a hot tub for £13

  • What headset fits:
    44mm headtube,
    tapered 1 1/8'' to 1 1/2'' steerer,
    internal bearings
    ?

  • What do people recommend for cleaning water bottles (both metal and plastic ones) that have started to smell a bit "stale"?

    I've just been using washing up liquid but with a few that doesn't get rid of the smell.

  • Sterident denture cleaning tablets

  • Sterilising fluid for baby bottles like Milton or any supermarket own brand.

  • None. You can have an inset upper bearing, but the lower will need to be external. There not enough space between a 1.5" OD diameter steerer and a 44mm ID headtube to get a bearing in there.

  • Yeah I'm just coming to this conclusion, I think I'm going to have to have an external bottom cup

  • I used a CK Inset 7 on mine. Others are of course available.

  • I'll probably just get the Nukeproof one on Wiggle cos it's a tenth the price.

  • How do I get this door onto the rails? There is little to no extra space to work with. Every time I look at it, it’s mocks my intelligence.


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  • Is it thin enough to bend vertically? Some brute force may be required. Maybe a ratchet strap or something that could bend it in a controlled way.

    Otherwise build a new cabinet around it.

  • Lift the top edge of the door into the groove in the top rail.
    Then drop the bottom edge of the door into the groove in the bottom rail.
    The distance between the base of the grooves is greater than the height of the door.

  • persuade it with your foot

  • You'll probably need to remove all of the weight from above before trying to brute force it. See if you can benefit from flexing the top rail.

  • Shout at it until it complies

  • That worked, should have asked two years ago. The top groove is much deeper than the bottom groove. I owe you all a beer.

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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