Any question answered...

Posted on
of 4,033
First Prev
/ 4,033
Last Next
  • God to know, thanks

  • Am I missing a rivet (?) in this cassette?

    I can force a bit of lateral movement when I push my finger between de last and second to last cog.

  • They don't do anything once it's all tightened down properly on the freehub body, I thought most only have one.

  • Right, thanks. Looked a bit odd though.

  • I normally remove them to make disassembly of the cassette easy to clean it.

  • I'm looking into getting v brakes for my muddyfox, but I am looking at the descriptions and they recommend a shimano power modulator part - SM-PM70. I've had bikes with v brakes before and never had them, is it a thing for new riders liable to go over the bars?

    They're cheap enough so I don't mind buying them if I'll notice a difference or like them but I'm unsure if they're unnecessary. The bike will be a commuter/tourer when it's done if that makes a difference.

  • Pretty much as you describe. I'd not bother with them.

  • They're fucking stupid, you don't need them, just try the brakes and learn to do sick endos. Don't buy something designed to make brakes work worse and that also seems to make them noisy for good measure.

  • How difficult would it be to turn front qr skewers into seatpost clamp skewers? Idea is to shorten them and extend the thread / cut new threads in...

  • You can already buy these so why bother.­-clamps/

    It will cost more to buy a die set and holder . How skilled are you at cutting threads?

  • I have lots of broken seat clamps, (the plastic cam thing is all mangled on them). And also loads of shimano front skewers which are surplus. it would be satisfying making a long lasting fix out of stuff I already have.

    By loads I mean between 20/30 and bikes to put them all on so the cost of the kit wouldn’t be so steep per clamp. Never cut threads before 🤔...

  • In that case practice on the bits you cut off.
    Make sure the die is inserted the correct way, there is a taper on one side to easily start the thread.
    Make sure when cutting the thread that you use a lubricant almost anything will do.
    Every half a turn or perhaps a little more reverse the die to clear the cutting edge of chips.
    Perhaps also put a slight chamfer on the cut end of the material to be cut.
    Good luck.

    Do not be tempted to use a die nut, they are only really to be used to clean up existing threads.

  • Never cut threads before

    On the plus side, you probably shouldn't start now. Shimano skewer threads are rolled, for good reason. To put the same thread on the plain shank after cutting to length you'd want to swage it down to the right starting diameter for thread rolling, which is less than the starting diameter for thread cutting.

  • Yeah, appreciate that. No way is that going to happen though.

    Just an enquiry seeing as I have an abundance of both, and hate the current design of the qr clamps.

    As you’re telling me that cut threads won’t be able to withstand the forces acting on them, and that (if the skewer diameter is correct to cut threads) it’ll be a nightmare to make it work.. then I’ll buy those brandx clamps that freezing77 posted.

    Look like they have a brass washer so an improvement on the ones we currently have.

  • (the plastic cam thing is all mangled on them)

    Well there's your root problem - plastic parts don't belong on QRs.

  • you’re telling me that cut threads won’t be able to withstand the forces

    If you look at QR clamps, they are usually M6 at least, more often M8. I'm going to assume that the makers are cognisant of the fact that they will be used by untrained gorillas🦍

    M5 cut threads would be fine in the hands of skilled, lightweight roadies who could be trusted to keep the seat post supplied with grip paste and not just gronk on the QR with all their might.

    There are generic Chinese QR clamps with Shimano-like closed cams, it might be worth trawling through Aliexpress or ebay if you're looking to replace a whole fleet of crappy open cam ones with inevitably destroyed plastic cam followers.

  • they are usually M6 at least, more often M8

    V true, hadn’t considered that.

    gronk on the QR with all their might

    They will.

    generic Chinese QR clamps with Shimano-like closed cams

    So far none of my searches have been fruitful. Got any magic keywords for me :)? Will keep looking. thanks!

  • Got any magic keywords for me :)?


    1 Attachment

    • s-l1600.jpg
  • I've got Miche Primato hubs on my track bike and I keep finding they're binding. I'll adjust them so they spin freely, tighten everything up, put them back on the bike, still spinning freely. After not much riding I'll find them binding again. What am I doing wrong?

  • What am I doing wrong?

    Using Miche hubs 🙂

  • Ha! I’ll give you that, they’re not great. Although changing sprockets is a million times better since I replaced the high-lactose stock lockring with a Phil one.

    Am I just not tightening the lock nuts up enough against each other?

  • Are these Campagnolo record SL Superleggeri pedals?

    2 Attachments

    • image.jpg
    • 6986E70A-C539-4E1F-B61B-B0D3B52246DC.jpeg
  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview

Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson