Owning your own home

Posted on
of 1,900
First Prev
/ 1,900
Last Next
  • update on this

    specialist came and visited. Turns out we don't have a guarantee for damp work at all, but a guarantee for rot remedial work to the joists etc

    Despite this, he carried out an inspection and said we just have high atmpheric moisture but the walls and everything else are fine. He also said he's seen this exact same thing loads the last 18 months, people are spending more and more time at home, boiling kettles and breathing etc etc so homes are just on average subject to more moisture at the moment.

    Anyway, it's within normal parameters and everything is fine, which is a huge relief. He even said he'd refund our 'reinspection' fee of £140 as it was the office staff who'd gotten the paperwork wrong, which was also a very nice bonus.

    He was also unimpressed with out underfloor insulation (rockwool) which was installed by an accredited installer (of the Energy Saving trust) which he says can often lead to damp issues down the line as it doesn't allow moisture to permeate and evaporate.

    my takeaway is that i need to learn a lot more about moisture management for my new place...

  • need to learn a lot more about moisture management

    There's always more to learn, it seems

    I had the floor up in our living room a couple of years ago - I considered hanging insulation under the floor (using netting & sheep wool), but decided against it as the benefit (better insulation) was outweighed by the risk (damp from reduced ventillation).

    I did take the opportunity to add another air brick, however, and will do the same again (twice) when I take the floor up in the front room in a year or two.

  • basically, all the things that you do to try and improve heat retention/efficiency have the impact of also not allowing moisture out - i.e. double glazing, fitted carpets, filling in gaps in floorboards etc, insulation (as mentioned).

    Modern materials also tend not to breath very well - see lime based render/plaster vs gypsum/concrete and modern emulsion paints with high plastic contents vs limewash or distemper.....

    Also the cooler the house is the more it becomes an issue as the moisture condenses, so running heating in the winter with windows not fully shut etc helps as it keeps the building warmer and forces the moisture out with the heat....

  • And heat bridges.

    Our old place suffered from heat bridge condensation really badly.

  • You can get pre-cast sandstone cills that a competent builder could stick in.

    My guess is that most would use standard cement, where ideally you would want lime mortar (making assumptions because of the age of the house and the bonding of the bricks).

    I'd guess that a lot of builders would just chuck a concrete cill in too, if left to make that decision themselves.

    Understanding why the cill rotted would be helpful too - Otherwise it would just happen again (more so if they use cement on it).

  • heat bridge

    curiously, although it's more correct* I've never heard anyone call them that before, always cold bridge or thermal bridge! I think it comes from thinking of them when you're inside and the bridge is cold to touch.

    * it's a bridge for the heat to get out, but I suppose it's a bridge to the cold.

  • I considered hanging insulation under the floor (using netting & sheep wool)

    Moths would have eaten it anyway.

  • Borax, innit
    (I still wouldn't, for that reason)

  • @Fox @chrisbmx116 Had a pint today with a mate who’s wife has targeted Coppermill primary school as they thinking of moving to the area from the well trodden path from stoke newington and apparently it’s meant to be great. Catchment area is 0.1 mile now from it. I know your both not moving but you both hot now for the parent madness..

  • How long do Land Registry documents take to be produced from request? Our solicitor has obtained a lease agreement with missing pages and we’ve only realised on the day of (supposed) exchange. There’s some covenants on missing page which we need to see for our own comfort.

    I’m livid that she’s had three months to spot this and it was only picked up when we checked it against the report on title.

    Conveyancers aren’t my favourite people at the moment.

  • You can get them yourself for any property for a couple quid - literally pay and receive immediately - if there's an error on the document I'm not sure.

    Hope it gets sorted out quickly for you.

  • Flat is finally on the market!

    Managing viewings vetwen WFH and two young kids will be fun.

  • Wait, but you already had a surveyor round right? Did you do a survey on your own flat to try and preempt what your buyers might find?

    1 Attachment

    • tenor.gif
  • In Scotland you need a surveyors report to get on the market.

    You can preview the report before your listing goes live so in the week between the first report being drafted and the listing going live, we got a specialist round to examine the issue that the surveyor flagged up. The specialist confirmed it was fine, so the survey report was amended to reflect this


  • Actual lol, I got all our paperwork though yesterday, intended to sign it all and send it before we go on Holiday next week so we can exchange - just noticed they have muddled my NI and DOB with my Wife's name on the LT return.

    So now I'm going to have to find somewhere to re-print and post when we are staying on a eco campsite in Wales with no facilities next week.

  • There's always more to learn, it seems

    Feels like older houses are just an ongoing war against the weather. Fix something, watch water appear elsewhere. Repeat until death.

  • No points for guessing who found a new set of damp spots when it rained the other day.

  • I've got a dishwasher that's suddenly stopped working - checked the fuse, beyond that I've no idea...

    Has anyone got a recommendation for someone to look at it around w4?

  • They’re useless and ours seems to have taken the hump that we pointed it out. The seller is also being a twat. This is after our last seller pulled out the week we had agreed to exchange. He hasn’t heard the last of me.

  • Dishwasher! I don't know if this is a stupid question, but the sockets in the picture below are in the cupboard under the sink.

    Fixing this is beyond me, but I was wondering if there might be a water leak down the back wall or around the sink somewhere (the tide marks make it look like there might be one) - does anyone know if water might have caused the issue below? The RCD didn't trip in case that's important.

    2 Attachments

    • IMG_20210725_092531.jpg
    • IMG_20210725_092525.jpg
  • Nasty. Might be a loose fuse holder in the plug making the fuse connection and attached pin get hot.

  • probably worth having an electrician look at that for peace of mind as much as anything.

  • @jellybaby the plug was half out, but I think that's because it deformed its way out when it melted. There's no way to get at the fuse in it - it's all moulded in.

    Yeah - bit of a shocking one and definitely one for the professionals. Just wondering if I need to put the effort in today of trying to track down a water leak.

  • This is the same thing my electric car just caused... overheating of the fuse caused the plug to melt, including the safety pin and then parts around the socket.

    On electrician forums what was noted is that a 13A socket on a 230v circuit will draw 13*230=3Kw (2,990w). This is fine as peak, but not fine sustained as many of the parts involved are not supposed to sustain this for long periods of time. They're rated for 13a spikes/peak, not 13a sustained. The big assumption being that little actually draws peak load for a long time... kettles stop after 5 minutes, toasters stop after 5 minutes, heaters have thermostats, washing machines have thermostats, dishwashers have thermostats, etc.

    So for an EV car, this makes sense (for me to have melted things) as I charged at full 13A flow for 4-5 hours at a time, sustained load rather than peak.

    For a dishwasher, this might indicate something wrong with the dishwasher, i.e. thermostat broken, scaled up heating element... something that causes it to pull peak load for longer durations of time.

    You're going to need to replace the socket. But then you're also going to face either replacing the plug + doing a full dismantle and service of the dishwasher (which may remain inconclusive), or just replacing the dishwasher.

  • The fuse should be behind the horizontal black bit in the plug. It is perhaps too melted to get o anymore though.

    If the fuse isn't replaceable it doesn't meet UK standards and the whole dishwasher should be thrown away as it is probably dodgy in other ways too. But it think it probably was before it melted.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview

Owning your own home

Posted by Avatar for Hobo @Hobo