• Sometimes if you have the bike on the floor, stand to the side and lean it away from you, put a load of force through the pedal at the bottom of it's stroke, will probably need to hold a brake on, that will flex the frame a bit but the BB will probably click if there's something wrong with it, go round the other side of the bike and repeat, back again and see if you can narrow down the problem with the sound.

  • You can feel the bearings with your fingers if you take the cranks off. Do they roll smooth or grainy?
    Is it new or old? You can smack them in and out but there's a risk you'll damage the sleeve or the bearings, only do it if you have spares at hand.

  • I have to take the cranks off to change the PM battery soon anyway so I'm waiting as long as possible then I'll get to check the bearings. I may have a spare but I need to check first.
    They're Cannondale cranks in a Spesh Shiv so I presume they're pretty standard BB30 bearings but who knows with stupid bikes.

    "OSBB is a narrower version of PressFit 30, sharing the same inner diameter of 46mm, but reducing the shell width to 61 versus the PF30 road standard of 68mm."

  • Could be a few things in that case, stupid specialized.

  • Bearings, quicker to change them than posting about.

  • Not if you don't have them.

    There's also no point changing bearings if they're fine and it's the frame interface that's making the noise.

  • Very rare the frame, changing the bearings is the next step after you checked the pedals etc. But yes you need the bearings first. Don't forget grease. All sorted then.

  • Alu shell, so BB30. Also, see it has BB30 written on the Cannondale BB so it's not the Spesh one, that's for sure. I probably got a BB with the 'dale cranks and installed that.

  • At least you don't have a Cannondale with BB30 written on the frame shell that's not actually BB30.

  • Wait, there's a BB with something written on it? BB30 is just bearings twatted in the frame, is it just Cannondale bearing covers?

  • Yeah it's Cannondale bearing covers, but I put them in, which means they must have come with Cannondale bearings. Found the email. They're basically Cannondale version of these https://www.bike24.com/p230408.html Looks like they don't do the kit any more but the bearings will surely be available.

    Actually I've just found a bag of Cannondale crank tools and it has bearings in it. I reckon I bought the cranks with a BB and then bought another axle kit to reduce the Q-factor. Presumably the bearings are the same so looks like I might be able to swap them.


  • Extremely annoying clicking noise solved by removing and regreasing pedals. Approx 5000km.

  • They'll just be BB30 bearings then, 6806 from memory but definitely check that, I've had a few beers.

  • Yeah, 6806 on the seal. FSA BB30 3055 J5 on the outer.

    The seals say ceramic but I wouldn't have bought ceramic bearings knowingly. I may just swap the seals for red ones, since red goes faster. Tomrrow though

  • Just get new 6806 whatevers and reuse all the other shite then ask all the same questions on here next time it goes wrong.

  • Pulled the cranks to swap PM battery. Looks like it's the bearings. They spin really nice but there's some side to side play. But this wasn't there when clamped down so I'm just going to leave these bearings in and deal with the click for now.

  • Bought a brand new pair of Shimano RS330s. The rear is making a noise every rotation a bit like a proper deep section rim i.e."womp womp". It doesn't sound gritty, the wheel spins completely freely and there's no play in the hub. I think it's coming from the hub, although the sound reverberates up to the rim. So far I've tried:

    Checked nothing's rubbing
    Tried it without the tire
    Inspected the rim for objects etc
    Checked no spokes are loose.
    Checked for play in bearings
    Tried backing off the cone slightly in case bearing was too loaded
    Tried doing the quick release up very lightly

    Could anything else be causing the noise or am I going to have to inspect and potentially overhaul the bearings on a brand new wheel?

  • Have you taken the wheel off and spun it in your hands? You might be able to feel something that helps narrow it down to the hub or the freehub. Curious to know what the cause is when you ID it.

  • Resurrecting an old thread!

    My daughters track bike has developed a terrible creak under load. It isn't the saddle or seat post as it happens when out of the saddle. I did think it was the BB (Miche Pistard Air), but I took everything out, cleaned, regressed and did up to the correct torque. Still happening.

    Any ideas? I'm wondering about the rear wheel, and maybe that needs a check?

  • It was last posted in 8 days ago, it's not exactly a zombie thread.

    Pedals? Chainring bolts? Bars/stem? Does it happen once per revolution or randomly?

  • Solved my last squeak-based (most noticeable when grinding up hills) annoyance yesterday. Pedals were, on inspection, just about to explode off the spindles; washers and bearings all shot to sh*t.

  • Sorry, my mistake I only got to page 51 and not to the end of the thread. :)

    I have checked the chainring bolts, but I'll double check them.

    I'll take a look at the pedals. They are basic Look KEOs but are 5+ years old now I reckon. The creaking is loud but I guess the sound could travel through the cranks and through the frame.

    Next time she is on the bike I'll check if its happening per rev or not. Thanks!

  • freehub bearings giving me the worst creak i've yet encountered on one of my bikes
    started out as a single tick / click a month or two back
    sounded like a pedal or bb creak, once per rotation has moved on to me thinking the frame was about to kark it this morning, proper horror movie rusty door hinge type sound on each rotation

    good sign of this is pedals moving like you're riding fixed when you are pushing the bike, with the bearing causing drag

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Bike noise, creak, click, creaks, clicks, clicking, pinging sound - help

Posted by Avatar for hamster @hamster