Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

I'm looking for a cheap/reliable 32h road hub to run singlespeed on a 130mm spaced frame.

Has anyone any experience of Tiagra 4600 hubs?

Have them on my beater (surly before it got stolen) and the girlfriend got them on her porteur bar roadie, they're nothing special and as far as my experiences goes, reliable.

A23 rims are tubeless compatible cos they changed the extrusion profile.
I have no idea what that means

Hah, me neither.

I'd guess the lips are deeper so they hook in more and have to work harder to pop off(?)... if that makes any sense.

It's not the bead hook that's changed, it's the bump inboard of the bead seat. Tubeless doesn't want to blow off the rim any more than a tubed tyre of the same section and pressure, but the run-flat security relies on a lip that stops the bead from dropping back into the well of the rim after pressure loss.
http://www.justridingalong.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/v/e/velocity_a23_tubeless_beads.jpg

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Have them on my beater (surly before it got stolen) and the girlfriend got them on her porteur bar roadie, they're nothing special and as far as my experiences goes, reliable.

Thanks. That's all I'm after really, that and good skewers and a steel freehub body.

Superstar have a range of carbon clinchers using Reynolds rims branded as their own for exactly half the price of the Reynolds wheels. 32 46 66mm and Reynolds brake pads supplied.

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=81&osCsid=vaglu6i36bqv8ru2d3au2e7qo7

Also knocking out 1510g alloy wheels for £150 or less.

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=77&osCsid=vaglu6i36bqv8ru2d3au2e7qo7

any good recommendation for rear rims? my open pro is cracked and need to replace it. wondering if there is anything vastly superior in 32h

wondering if there is anything vastly superior in 32h

Not really. DT's new RR440 looks nice, but the brand tax on DT is even worse than Mavic, you'd probably need new spokes, and they don't seem to be in shops yet.

Budget sealed bearing hubs. 49 + 89 euros, 65 + 215 g.

http://www.farsports.com/product/detail.php/id-34.html

http://www.yoeleo.com/23mm-wide-clincher-rim-700c-carbon-50mm.html

I'm looking at these two different type of rims (although ideally the 50mm would be 38mm)
It's pretty much a vanity project - I want some deepish carbon wheels, that come in around 1300grams

I was going to go for 32 rear, 24 front as I thought stiffness in exchange for a little extra weight would be worthwhile.

Is this a totally stupid wheel build? Should I just get some A23's? What spokes would people recommend?

How much do you weigh, where will you ride, and how much do you want to spend?

How much do you weigh, where will you ride, and how much do you want to spend?

Are you coming onto me?

No.

;)

you tease.

@ Tenderloin

They do have 38mm:

Special Assembly Technology 700C 23MM Wide Carbon Wheels Clincher 38MM With Super Light Hubs

[ EDIT: my maths has them ^ being c.1,315g ]

If it's a vanity project wouldn't it be better to get 50mm for maximum pro-lookness? If you've got the money and want them why not. Will A23's actually do anything your current build doesn't? If not surely you're better going "bling" than "meh they're practical".

If you've got the funds Sapim lazer are light, CX-ray's are bling, race are stronger, Pilar are a bit cheaper.

Personally I'd go all out and get 50mm in 28h/16h.

Rear: (2x NDS and 1x DS ... or something else a bit quirky so you can explainshow off about bracing angles to people)
DNS lazer + alu internal nips
DS: Race + brass internal nips

Front: (radial) CX-Rays + internal alu nips

Silver hubs and spokes will have a more timeless look, as well as being cheaper. So if it fits with your build, I'd do that.

Interestingly does anyone know how this works?

Talking wheel rims? No idea.

I have no issue with 50mm or 38mm - I just prefer the slightly less deep section.

I'm thinking of organising a group/bulk purchase from Farsports - so ideally it would be available through them.

Maybe I should just go tubular...

And I don't want a pre built wheelset, just the rims.

I'm not light - 84kg and like I said stiffness would be a consideration - so a higher spoke count would be what I was looking for...

I keep snapping spokes on rear road wheels. I snapped three on a hand built wheel so had it rebuilt and now they keep snapping again. Almost inclined to give up with this whole roadbike and go back to my fixed gear which had only one spoke snap in over 3 years and never needed truing.

How heavy are you? and are those on the same wheel?

If you keep snapping spokes, build a stronger wheel.

Interestingly does anyone know how this works?

You insert the spoke nipples into the valve hole and then drag them round into the correct place using a magnet. Same as the system on Fulcrum wheels. Still not quite sure how it works, as nipples are either ali or brass, and neither's magnetic. Maybe there's some ferrous insert you put in the nipple before dragging it round to the spoke hole.

Either way, sounds like a massive faff for minimal benefit, particularly as that's not where (or why) carbon clincher rims tend to fail.

I was told that it is a very strong wheel. 32 spokes Royce hub with Swiss DT rim, double butted all that stuff.
I am around 83 kgs and it just keeps on happening and I am throwing money away on it every month. I may just leave it snapped now

Sounds like they're just not very well built, TBH. There's no way you should be snapping spokes on a wheel like that. Are all the spoke tensions equal? If you 'ping' the spokes, do they all ring at roughly the same pitch?

Yeah, that really shouldn't be happening.

83kg isn't heavy and 32h should be strong enough to go touring on.

I concur with the other that the wheel simply wasn't build well.