Cheers, will swap around stems in that case.
I went from 110 with drops to 120 with risers
Well, readers from a few pages back (or indeed seven years ago, when I started the thread) will no doubt be delighted to know that I have finally bitten the bullet and booked a bike fit. Going to see Denver at De Ver Cycles in Streatham later this month. Will report back.
Artisan Cycles are offering free fit consultations next Thursday night. More information here.
They have helped me a lot with a new position and offer a great follow up service to tweak the bike as you build milage and strength.
'Assessment', not bike fit - it states that very clearly. If I was closer I would go along for the heck of it. I did strongly consider those guys for a proper fit, based on your recco, but De Ver is a short ride away, and Denver gets props from a few folk on here. Excited! Hopeful I'll sort out some of the niggles I've been ignoring for years.
First bike fit the other day. My thoughts so far:
1) About 50 % of the time was spent on feet/soles/cleats. I couldn't possibly have achieved what he did myself, hence money well spent. But that means that for those thinking of going for their first fitting I'd recommend bringing along a new-ish pair of shoes that you intend to use for a couple of years ahead. To spend 200 + pounds on dialling in a pair of shoes that are reaching the end of their life would be a massive waste.
2) All the interweb talk about many agressive, much aero, core strenght, wow, has sort of tricked me into thinking that a racy postion is meant to be uncomfortable and that it's something you have to gradually work your way towards - the exlusive domain of the grumpy old farts who like to post snarky comments in this thread. However, the fitter showed me how a noticeable increase in saddle/handlebar drop and a few extra cm of reach actually felt way more comfy. Less hunched up back = bliss.
Speaking of soles.
It's usually wise to go to the doctor for a referral to get your feet check out if you feel uncomfortable even walking.
I eventually have special insoles that feel like it push pressure in certain area, weirdly uncomfortable but suddenly issues have gone away after a while.
Putting the soles in cycling shoes and setting the cleat back mean I no longer have problem with my feet, a 600km audax ride mean I got off the bike and able to walk without acting like I'm walking on coal.
This method is idea if you're not certain about spending money on getting your shoes set up, matter of fact it's free.
Good point, I've some niggles on the left foot, so time to Q up at 8 in the morning to get a referral.
Just spent the day with @scherrit having a fit done to dial in my mamil chariot. It turns out my fit has not changed a great deal since I saw cyclefit many years ago. This is despite the following additional problems since my previous road bike fit - another knee meniscus operated on, sciatic nerve problems and compartment syndrome that needed muscle and nerves to be debrided from one leg. New wedges fitted under one heel, saddle raised and pushed back a fraction more and cleats moved a little further back. Front end of the bike needed no adjustment whatsoever.
When I bought the Cannondale from Sigma sport they did their simple bike fit - measuring height, leg length and a couple of other proportions and sticking the data into a computer. Their suggested frame size was a 58, I still bought a 56 bike from them as it's geo was pretty much identical to my 3 other road bike frames. The bigger frame would have been the wrong size, too long in the top tube and would have resulted in an 8cm stem (but the stem would have been slammed - big fucking deal).
Instead the bike I have is absolutely spot on and this reminds me how much the measurement only systems are not adequate.
Similar to @starfish&coffee I would not have been able to work out the heel wedges (and actually they are hard to come by) for myself. My speedplays did need the extension plate to move them further back which I doubt I'd have done. Saddle raising and moving back were just a few mm and might have happened over time if I'd been tweaking it myself. Also @scherrit helped with alignment of my time actac cleats for one pair of my shoes so I can replicate that position on other shoes for my commuto x and fixie skidder bikes.
It was a delightful day and felt utterly worthwhile. Trying to make the tweaks myself would probably have resulted in a fair degree of trial and error and would have taken a long time and possibly some additional expense. As ever with the Bike Whisperer there is the option of further visits if any problems arise over the next three months for free.
It was also good to see the rest of the clan, I met my now fiancee when I confused her dog for Fettle - the Whisperers hound. So it was great for all of us to meet up again with our mutually expanding packs of mutts and all go out for dinner afterwards.
I've had a pretty dialled position from a physio on my current roadie, using short reach bars (PRO PLT compact) and a 100mm stem. I've since swapped to "standard reach" bars (Zipp SL80) which have extended the reach by 15-20mm, and I can't seem to get comfortable.
What do I need to do to my saddle/seat position to move back towards a comfortable position? I'm more or less KOPS, I can check where my current knee position and angle is and try replicate something similar for the new bars? Or is it a case of getting more flexible and HTFU?
I'm almost tempted to switch back to the PLTs as they had flat tops too, the zipps are round. Any recommendation on stiff bars that have ovalised tops and short reach? Big ask, I know.
Why did you change your set up when what you had worked?
Keep the saddle in the same position and then find a stem that places your favourite hand contact point in the same position as the previous set up. Or even better go back to how things were. Then contemplate why you tried to fix something that was not broken.
Already contemplated - Pro PLT bars are really noodly, so switched to a stiffer bar. Unfortunately stiffer bars don't come in a short reach. I might just switch back to the previous setup at any rate until I find a short-ish reach stiff bar.
Zipp SL-70 and a 5/10mm shorter stem?
That one looks perfect, exact same reach and 3mm extra drop! I'll have to try source one now. And it looks like it has ovalised tops, hopefully the bar is less flexy than the PLT. Cheers @Scilly.Suffolk
The al ones are stiffer than the carbon fibre but that will result in a slightly harsher ride. On long rides a little flex/bump absorption is t a bad thing. But for crits and sprinting you may prefer something a little stiffer.
I just remembered that Zipp market some of their bars as "short & shallow", so I was curious as to why you were having a problem.
NB The version with the "contoured top section" is the "Ergo", not to be confused with the "Aero" and plain ol' "SL-70".
Random question - if I change my inline seatpost for a layback seatpost how would it affect positioning/handling? As I would be further back from the bb. Ideally I would like a longer reach. I already have a 130mm stem so I'm not looking to go longer!
Around this time last year I get fit(ed) in the bike. Only thing I've changed is now stem is lower and I'm using another handlebar, identicall reach/drop and form. I feel comfortable on the bike, longest ride this season has been almost 5h.
I just want to check is my position is ok or if I should visit my bike fitter again.
It looks a little like your shoulders are up around your ears. Perhaps look at some yoga or Pilates to work on sliding your shoulders down your back a little. It will put less stress on your neck.
If you are comfortable then a new fit is probably not required.
Dave Moulton's frame sizing chart. I like the idea of using someones shoes size to figure out their frame size.
My shoe size is 2 sizes too small then ;)
Is it only for men? The ST/TT size is spot on though...
Spot on in all dimensions for me. Guess that makes me a conformer
I want to set up my new commuter just like my road bike. For the sake of maintaining my body's adaptation to the road bike - is this a thing?
I guess the key things are saddle height and saddle/bb setback. It's inevitable that the bars will be higher as the commuter has way more stack. Is this so much of an issue as you are always adjusting elbow bend on the fly anyways?
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Congrats to Tao on winning the Giro