Polo Bikes

cane creek 110. CK destroyerrrr

Is a Cane Creek 110 (about £30?) substantially better than the FSA IS-2 I have, available here for <£20? That's what BTR offered me whilst my frame was being built and at the time I couldn't find an obviously better headset for a similar price.

Link to £30 Cane Creek 110?

Is a Cane Creek 110 (about £100?).......

Fixed.

Link to £30 Cane Creek 110?

http://www.tweekscycles.com/Product.do?method=view&n=3461&g=242608&p=238154&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Headsets&gclid=CIXx9IOEsroCFWbMtAoddRIACw

110 Year Guarantee lol

http://www.tweekscycles.com/Product.do?method=view&n=3461&g=242608&p=238154&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Headsets&gclid=CIXx9IOEsroCFWbMtAoddRIACw

110 Year Guarantee lol

Showing £116-143 depending on size/colour...

In that case, the items that came up in my Google shopping results may have been subcomponents listed using the image of the whole.

So why would you spend £120+ on a CC 110, when an FSA IS2 is (unless you want black) less than £20?

Or buy an FSA Pig for less than £20..

God, I hate the internet...

The pig has loose ball bearings, laaaaaaame!

Get the VP.

Nothing wrong with loose ball bearings, a lot of my if-money-didn't-matter hubs are loose bearing.

le yawn

The pig has loose ball bearings, laaaaaaame!

Get the VP.

yes but have you seen the size of them?

I hate loose bearings because they rely on preventative maintenance. By the time you notice something is wrong (looseness, rumbling, notchiness) it's usually too late to just strip, grease and rebuid. You'll need new bearings at the very least, and probably cones/races (which are often a mission/impossible to find). In many cases you'll have fucked up the hub surface too, so it'll never be right.

Of course, if you like spending time preemptively servicing stuff, have access to decent replacement bearings/cones/races, then they're fine.

I also reckon it's debatable that cup n cone offer any advantages - they're usually heavier, too.

broke 2nd cable outer in as many weeks today - right by the lever's barrel adjuster...

will nokon or aligator i-link cables help stop this?

if so, and anyone has a spare 30-35cm of the stuff kicking around I'd gladly take it off your hands..

Goodridge outers are quite hard wearing. Or go for compressionless Jagwire ripcord.

Might be able to sort you out Apollo, unfortunately it's H-Bomb blue...

Will have a check...

is it because the cable is hitting something when you crash? sometimes just moving the lever a tad can help.

Possibly - but not crashed today..I think it was from a stray mallet.

coz the bars spin around and the break hits the top tube. its often right on the cable adjuster area of the lever so bends the outer and makes it snap. oshane had a zip tie around his bars and cable to stop the cable bending as much, at least I guess thats what it was for.

I just installed some ilink. and new brake lever. its smoottthhhhh.

My bar ends touch my toptube before the cable does...

I'd like some i-Link, so spendy tho'...

goodridge best i've used. nokon inner liner breaks for me.

Good ridge fo lyf

Nokon is so flexible that you will kink your cable in crashes. It's designed to allow smooth braking/gear changing in tightly routed cables, not for impacts. I would replace a kinked cable at every tournament when I used Nokon, I haven't had the same problem since I changed it out.

Max gave me some Jagwire, that works very well.