Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

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  • Yep that's definitely a more informed and less clickbait way of saying what I meant!

  • Broadly speaking is there even any point into looking into a rotary Mazda in Ireland or UK anymore or would it most likely be nigh on impossible to find one that hasn't been abused and would turn out to be a complete moneypit?

  • I think that there is absolutely zero doubt that you'd need to spend money like a drunken sailor who has made port for the first time in six months in order to keep one properly.

  • That's the fear. I've always wanted an RX-7 (FC or FD) but I'd imagine they're all absolutely wrecked as they weren't terribly expensive for a long time (still not too bad now but I suspect that's because they are all wrecked).

  • Yep, total money pit. They had little or no rust protection from new, and while the rotary engines don't entirely deserve their reputation for unreliability it'd be a rare one that won't need some rotor tip work at some point. Beautiful cars though, and an LSx engine can be squeezed into them.

  • It would break my heart to LS swap one of these though, whatever about keeping it JDM and squeezing in a 2JZ... I feel like losing the rotary just wouldn't be an RX-7 anymore.

    In fact if they're as rust-prone as that it might be a better course of action to buy a basket case and start from scratch for a good one?

    Anyone have a good recommendation for somewhere to learn more about them? Good YouTube links or forums?

  • might find a good one in aus

  • For 3 rotor madness Rob Dahm

  • Was just about to say, there's a few good ones around here in sydney. I'd like one of those special editions they did for bathurst and the eastern creek races. FD RX-7, definitely a spot in the garage for one.

  • The expansion tank is connected to the rad by a small bore ish pipe, and you disconectted the pipe and revved it and no water came out. Is that correct?

  • Didn't rev it. Let it run idle and nothing was coming through but I've taken it all off and it's clear. Just checked the new thermostat which is supposed to open at 87 and it didn't start to open until 92. Would that lead to the rad issues? Also noticed that when engine was completely overheated no hot air was coming through heaters.

  • It is looking like a blocked/clogged radiator to me.

    Any decent rad places that could recore to a higher spec aluminium core, or would a modern rad be a decent aluminium core.

    But lets see if the headgasket has failed again.

  • Blown engine rx8 are very very cheap. Yet decent RX8 are a bit hit and miss price wise. Suspect that the VED and MPG always fancied rebuilding an RX8 as there aren't that many moving arts.

  • So you're saying modern radiators aren't always as good quality? Yeah I've put it all back together until the garage has had a look then will replace thermostat etc. Thermostat wouldn't lead to fan not kicking in though would it. So that must be rad I presume

  • Air suspension can be setup to look totally stock if you want it to.

    Can we name the cars that have air suspension from new, as they have normal ride height.

    What people seem to forget is why air suspension is around.

  • Yes, some modern rads are shite. Check for fakes and unbranded never heard of rads. An example is getting motorbike, honda NC30 water and oil rads from china. Very hit and miss while car parts are being copied and are poor quality. There are lots of ways that rad makers are trying to prove that their products are genuine.

    The cold internal heater rad does not inspire confidence too. Is it an air lock and is that air lock caused by a blocked rad? When you take the thermostat out back flush the system in the opposite direction to the normal water flow. Maybe disconnect the heater water pipes and back flush that to see if there is a blockage?

    If the body is in good nick I'd try my best to keep it as decent MK2 golfs are only going to go up in value.

  • I've always loved golfs and this is in good nick. Hate to get rid. Mileage isn't very high for a diesel either. I have toyed with the idea of putting a modern engine in but that seems a shame in a sense. Although a more reliable modern engine would be nice. These are pretty simple which is a bonus. The rads from VW Heritage are only 40 quid and their stock must be pretty decent. Once I get it back from the mechanic and fit the new thermostat I'll completely flush it all including heater matrix etc and see if that helps.

  • Not had the best New Car Day. When dealer turned up to exchange new Mini with old Skoda he said “was this here last time I saw it?” I went round to see that some c**t had smashed up the passenger wing on the day I was f-ing exchanging. He went off with it and said they’d let me know cost of repairs. I was so shocked at my shitty luck I wasn’t thinking straight. No witnesses sadly and of course no note left. I’m guessing it’s a new wing and hundreds of £? Guess I should claim on insurance but I suspect there may be difficulties as I don’t have the car now?
    What a nightmare.


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  • Fuck sake, what a ballache!

  • If the thermostat does not open it will not circulate the hot water to the radiator to circulate it for cooling, ergo the fan switch will not get hot water to it to cut the fan in.

    A lot of modern engines will over heat with out the rad cap in as the pressure build up raises the boiling point of the coolant, without the pressure small pockets of coolant in the hottest part of the engine can boil up creating steam which then forces the coolant out.

    I would replace the thermostat first.

    checking the radiator is quite easy remove the hoses and force water through it to see if it flows OK

  • Any way you can track the culprit?

    You know roughly when the damage happened, and the colour of the car that did it. Supermarket car park? CCTV?

  • Sadly it was in my street and can’t find any witnesses or cameras

  • Went to see a very nice and fairly priced Civic last night. Chap bought it at the start of March, put it through an MOT (two new tyres and rear brake pads), then lockdown happened, so he's only done 900 miles on it in four months. And he lives in Surrey.

    After the MOT he took it to the garage to get the air con looked at and they told him it needed new gas, but to come back after lockdown, so that still needs doing.

    He's asking what he paid for it, which given the work he had done and that he paid a good price for it doesn't seem unreasonable (it's a 12 year old Civic with 100k, so 4 months and 900 miles really is neither here nor there). One more owner I suppose.

    I've already got him to agree to take £50 off the cost for the re-gas, but while he had it the door blew open and there's now a tiny dent/scratch on the driver's door. I'd like to get this fixed as the paint/bodywork is otherwise basically perfect, so it seems reasonable to use this as a negotiating point to cover the cost of the repair as it happened on his watch.

    What would be a reasonable amount? Googling suggests I'd maybe be looking at £60-100ish so I'm thinking if I can get another £100 off that would do, even if it doesn't totally cover it I'd feel cheeky asking for more tbh.

  • It’s never “just a re-gas”.

  • Ring the dealer now and ask to speak the manager. You need to control the conversation about what's going to happen, not them. Otherwise there's a risk they'll turn this into an easy way to extract money out of you. Don't go in all guns blazing, my line of questioning would be:

    Are you fixing it or auctioning it as is?
    If they're fixing, bargain hard on the estimated cost.
    If they're auctioning, bargain on the estimated reduction in expected price.

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Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

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