Powder coating - Aurum / Vaz / Armourtex / Respray gallery

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  • Enjoy : https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/2145­90/#comment8965267

    I know fuck all, but I remember the topic comes up on here now and then. I found this using search for 'raw' and 'clearcoat'. I think the discussion tends to circle around clearcoat not being effective, then use linseed oil, then someone pops up to say clearcoat is fine, etc.

  • I think the discussion tends to circle around clearcoat not being effective, then use linseed oil, then someone pops up to say clearcoat is fine, etc.

    Haha yeah sounds like lfgss.

    thanks for the link!

  • Steve I think phosphate dips (to slow corrosion) then does clear coat powder, worth investigating !

  • Ey up.

    In terms of colour, you can ask I.F. for the code and they'll let you know - they've done it for me a few times. I think they use a PPG system and this isn't readily available in powder formats.

    There are a few different powder references but the safest one is RAL. You can buy a book for less than £20 or get a decent idea by visiting https://www.ralcolorchart.com/ although this isn't a recommendation I'd make if you're picky. You'll get close but you won't get it exact when you ask powder to do the job of paint.

    Powder is very rarely colour-matched... this is only really practical with wet paint but this process can be expensive.

    You can use a digital colour picker from a photo and then convert this to a RAL code using http://www.rgb.to

    Crudely speaking, powder is a dry coloured dust, electro-statically bonded to the metal and then baked to form a skin. The baking process will fry the sticker kit you were provided with.

    You can powder, then stickers, then wet clear but the bond between clear and powder is very poor. You'll be better served by simply popping the stickers over the powder.

    We can call them transfers or decals but whatever the specifics are, using stickers is always a cost cutting exercise which will give inferior bonds and present hurdles.... paint doesn't have these issues - but it does have it's own!

    Hope that helps.

  • This image is of aluminium rather than steel.
    It's a softer metal and the effect is more significant but this is what the surface of your blasted steel will look like. As you said, dull grey, and pitted.

    The raw look you are after ideally needs to see clearcoat applied directly over the steel from the off.

    If you want to get this effect, you can do a bit of the graft yourself... quality paint stripper and abrasives to avoid the pitting. You can put a nice 'key' into it with red or grey scotchbrite. Then you can bring it to me and I'll use a direct adhesion clearcoat. There will be some anti properties to the clear so rusting will be slowed, then, as you chip and ding and scuff the frame, those fractals and deltas of oxidation will bloom.

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  • thanks for the insightful reply!

    i've now gone ahead with a custom non-RAL powder colour steve at aurum has access to. it's close enough to the IF original. good to know they can provide the codes though. emailing with them re the decals was already a lengthy process so didn't want to go there all over again.

    steve offered to put a thin layer of (powder) clearcoat after the base colour to allow another layer of wet clearcoat after the decals. i'm a bit concerned now as you said this won't work too well :D. the decals are from sssink.com, the ink transfer type. i believe these require some kind of paint layer to hold.

  • There are few people more knowledgeable than Steve so if he can do it, it can be done!

  • Hey guys, bee reading this thread a bit and aurum seems to be a great fit for my frame, I've heard of a dropout point ine ast london does it still exist and happens? Cheers!

  • yes, clever mike in hornsey deals with aurum pickups.

  • Thank you guys!

  • You can also drop with me at Paradise Cycles in Bethnal Green, although I think it might be a couple of weeks until our next visit...

  • Stayer in leytonstone is another one

  • Cheers! I actually wonder what is the most affordable of all the powder coaters in london?
    I'd love to stay arround £1o0 (I understand it is on the low side)

  • Steve at aurum, others maybe cheaper but you wont get anywhere near his level of skill. He really is the best

  • His prices are going up from January so get in quick

  • Damn yes better hurry, ok I'll try with him

  • He's charged the same amount for a number of years whilst his costs have crept higher. Don't blame him, he does good work

  • I’ve emailed Clever Mike to see about getting a frame to Steve, I too have been scrolling through this thread trying to make sense of how one connects to Steve at Aurum. Is that done solely through Clever Mike?

    Also, would a carbon fork need to be stripped of paint before sending it to him? What’s his turn around time like lately?

  • No, you can deal direct but he doesn't respond to emails and only has someone in the office one day a week. Best to phone him.
    But if you don't want to post a frame to him then it's best to take it to one of the previously mentioned shops and let them deal with it anyway

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Powder coating - Aurum / Vaz / Armourtex / Respray gallery

Posted by Avatar for Raouligan @Raouligan