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• #2
ah ha!, well let me tell you how not to do it..like I did last week,
you take the cotter pin out first, remove the nut holding it secure then if you can get hold of a cotter pin press ...I didnt have one of these so I decided to bash it straight on the end of the pin, which then bent firmly holding it in place forever. So the next big idea was to hacksaw off the bent bit so it was flush on the crank arm then use a nail punch and hammer to knock it through right.... well turns out that cotter pins are about as hard as my first shit so the nail punch embedded itself in the pin creating a wedge effect again... so next idea was to drill out the pin far enough so it would lose some of its grip then I could knock it out with the punch and hammer, drilled about half way down and thought that should do it.. inserted nail punch wacked it with the hammer.. nail punch broke in two leaving one bit creating another wedge effect in the bottom half of the cotter pin... ended up hack sawing the drive side crank arm accross the length of the pin removing any sort of pressure on the pin and tapped it out. Lucky I found an identical drive side crank arm on ebay for £3.50, so job was done.
My advice would be cotter pin press if you can, if not a G-clamp with some bigger nuts on the other side of the pin so it can move when the clamp pushes it down or a LBS.
Hope this helps! :)
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• #3
Check out the obligatory Sheldon Brown page.
I don't have any of the required tools I think.
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• #4
thank you..
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• #5
looks like a trip to lbs:( the other side been snap
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• #6
lol Ive used my paint skills to show the G-clamp incase I didnt describe it well

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• #7
the hack saw idea might work... i don't want the crank any way and bb
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• #8
one end is snapped off... so no good
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• #9
best way I found was to make two cuts across each other :)


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• #10
nice crank
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• #11
i've removed them with a hammer a couple of times.
loosen the nut, but don't remove it, leave it just on the end of the bolt to stop it mushrooming over.
try and use as few hits as possible. the more hits you take the less likely it is to come out. 1 or 2 should do it.
(i think this is pretty much what sheldon suggests) -
• #12
ah ha!, well let me tell you how not to do it..like I did last week,
you take the cotter pin out first, remove the nut holding it secure then if you can get hold of a cotter pin press ...I didnt have one of these so I decided to bash it straight on the end of the pin, which then bent firmly holding it in place forever. So the next big idea was to hacksaw off the bent bit so it was flush on the crank arm then use a nail punch and hammer to knock it through right.... well turns out that cotter pins are about as hard as my first shit so the nail punch embedded itself in the pin creating a wedge effect again... so next idea was to drill out the pin far enough so it would lose some of its grip then I could knock it out with the punch and hammer, drilled about half way down and thought that should do it.. inserted nail punch wacked it with the hammer.. nail punch broke in two leaving one bit creating another wedge effect in the bottom half of the cotter pin... ended up hack sawing the drive side crank arm accross the length of the pin removing any sort of pressure on the pin and tapped it out. Lucky I found an identical drive side crank arm on ebay for £3.50, so job was done.
My advice would be cotter pin press if you can, if not a G-clamp with some bigger nuts on the other side of the pin so it can move when the clamp pushes it down or a LBS.
Hope this helps! :)
damn, thats funny, i giggled like child
"well turns out that cotter pins are about as hard as my first shit"
LMFAO !!
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• #13
How do I take these off? Anyone can lend me the tools to do the job??
Have you bought another bike Davy?
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• #14
haha... yes....
hael
andyp
whatamidoing
[deleted]
Dylan
How do I take these off? Anyone can lend me the tools to do the job??
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