Tri-spokes etc

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  • No one know about changing these hubs?

  • Finally what type of Hub was on the wheel ?
    _ Screwed freewheel on threaded hub?
    _ Freehub with cassette that you clip on ?

    Thanks

    I had a screwed on freewheel hub. It seems that this is the only type that's easy(ish) to convert from a rear to a front.

  • Sorry to bring up this ancient thread, but I have a Specialized trispoke with a screw on block which should be pretty easily converted into a front. According to the folks in this topic, you just need to change the axle. Now I would like to know do I need a specific axle or will any front axle do? Thanks!

  • Hello. My rear tri spoke has now made it self a new home on the front of my bike. I am stoked it fitted. It has been a bit of a bodge job: Instead of getting a conversion kit or new axle I just replaced the spacers and used nuts on the outside to hold it on to the forks. The axle only just squeezed into the fork dropouts but it has worked. It's riding really nice.

    Can you see what is happening with those photos that do not appear?

    I'm having trouble mounting the axle of front wheel and you may be able to take all my doubts.

    Or maybe if you want you can send me pictures to ruiaur@gmail.com

    Thanks

  • Time to bring this back to life....

    I've managed to get hold of a rear specialized tri spoke. Ideally I want to run it up front, blah blah blah. I have a surly fixer to fit this weekend if it can't be done.

    Could someone help me with what hub i have? I know there was two hubs one where its doable and one where it is not. Some thing to do with freewheel cassette :S

    Also where would be the best place in London to do the work

    Pictures

    Thanks

  • You have the Specialised one with the dual purpose UG/HG freehub, based on Shimano 600EX guts. It can't be converted with a Fixxer, because the drive interface is wrong. I have one too, eventually I'll get around to converting it to fixed with an ISO 6-bolt fitting, but not for a while probably. Condor have the TL-FH10 needed to remove the freehub, not that it will do you any good because once it's off there's not much you can do unless you have a lathe and some suitable bar stock

  • Thanks for the reply mate. So how could it be made for the front? I have someone who could make me pretty much anything on a lathe ect

    Would this be what we need to do? http://www.flickr.com/photos/chinkone/51­65403636/in/photostream/lightbox/ (click the 'older' button to see the finished product)

    If we could draw something up, with your know how I'm sure he could make us something up? If your interested?

  • That's the gist of it, the fixing bolt is a bit odd because it is a twin-start thread of a strange form, but a decent machine shop should be able to replicate it. Also, it's a bugger to get out of the freehub body for somebody to copy, it doesn't just fall out like the modern ones because the drive goes through the thread, so the bolt is fixed to the stator of the freehub body.

  • As I always say when these things are discussed (and they come up pretty routinely), if you want a front wheel, you'd be much better off selling the rear and buying a front.

  • Jeez I wish I knew what you know... Like I said I have someone who could do it IF we (you) supply the relevant information? There's one in it for you don't forget :)

    Drop me a pm if your interested mate and we can discuss it further. Thanks, James

  • As I said, sell your rear and buy a front. It will save you a lot of time, trouble and money.

    This is what it looks like after you've taken the freehub off:


    1 Attachment

    • PICT1191.jpg
  • Ok ok, finally how come the fixxer won't work? Wrong thread?

  • Yes, wrong thread and more importantly no splines on the hub shell for it to drive.

  • Once again you've lost me. Thanks for your help though

  • Once again you've lost me.

    If you look up thread at this:

    You'll see that the hub shell (the bit the spokes attach to) has a splined boss which engages a splined recess on the freehub body (or Fixxer). On these kinds of Shimano hub (i.e. nearly all of them since the late 90s, apart from DuraAce and some very cheap ones), it's this splined interface which transmits torque from the sprocket(s) to the rest of the wheel. On the early 90s 600EX, on which the Specialized is based, the torque is transmitted through the twin start hollow bolt which also attaches the freehub body to the hub shell

  • Nice...custom engineered bit or off the shelf? How stable?

  • Nice...custom engineered bit or off the shelf? How stable?

    Custom, they don't do one off the shelf for this hub. Haven't ridden it yet, waiting on a new axle....

  • You bought one yet? I have one if you need one - brand new from Hed

  • Yeah brought it from hed. Hasn't come yet though. How much you after? We're are you?

    Is it this?
    http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx62/­price342/3216B4C0-C191-4DC8-96AC-7E0ACAF­1D93F-178-000000059A3971BB_zpsf20ed12e.j­pg

  • No it's the skewer compatible one, which i use with a silver one of these for a bit of extra security:

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/bbb-bqr-03-hex-q­uick-release-skewers/

    You've gone to a lot of trouble to engineer that wheel. If you're locking it on the street in londons-famous-london you might want to give yourself every chance of holding on to it.

    £20 posted...not often in the central smoke.

  • Thanks mate, but I'll stick with the bolt on. Won't leave the bike without a Kryptonite through the wheel anywho

  • No worries. Hope it works out.

  • If anyone's interested, I've done it

    Did you ream the hub shell? Is your new bearing holder just pressed in or have you glued it?

  • Ream hub shell? If you mean bored out yeah. It will be loctited and pressed in

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Tri-spokes etc

Posted by Avatar for Todd @Todd

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