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• #79627
don't listen to indra, or to scoble
ftfy
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• #79628
I\d say go for the nitto purely based on looks but if you'll find a thompson more comfy and cost effective then go for that, it'll mean keeping the same stem.
Stem is fine for now, maybe a bit flexy but its not an issue, actually more bothered that it still has Cinelli bars, full taped of course, i want to swap them for some 125's in the future though.
I become quite fond of the blue tape as well, comfy to.
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• #79629
Far be it from me to draw your attention to one of my own posts, the important part is really Scherritt's +1 which follows it, but:
http://www.lfgss.com/thread16289-86.html#post3645257In other words, whether you need an in-line or set back post is to be settled first, independently of any concerns you have about the distance from saddle to bars. A set back post and short stem is not the same as an in-line post and a long stem, even if they result in the same relative positions of saddle and bars, because the more important relative position of BB and saddle will be different.
this
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• #79630
I'm looking for an alternative TT lever to the current Tektro TL-720 - Something with a little less reach. As it's out on the curve of the bull there, to get more than a finger tip on it I have to stretch right out. I'm thinking there must be something that curves more inwards available (other than a normal drop bar road brake) that's easier to reach.

Maybe something like this?

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• #79632
Maybe something like this?

Or Tektro RX5.0
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• #79633
I grabbed it to go ride in the rain instead of the DAs but he's more of a roadie anyway.
I was thinking might look good with some flat crown steel forks in a 'dale copy kinda way.
not sure what forks it would have come with originally, these maybe?

Is your dolan the replacement for the Mielec? What kind of forks are you thinking about?
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• #79634
I grabbed it to go ride in the rain instead of the DAs but he's more of a roadie anyway.
I was thinking might look good with some flat crown steel forks in a 'dale copy kinda way.
not sure what forks it would have come with originally, these maybe?
Well, Dolan was built by Donohue I think? So probably same forks as Cougar, Weigh, Donohue...

Or is it alu and I'm way off the mark?
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• #79635
Maybe something like this?

Or these?
http://www.gbcycles.co.uk/p/35809/Profile-Design-Quick-Stop-2-Brake-Levers
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• #79636
whether you need a **Thomson or Nitto** post is to be settled first, independently of any concerns you have about the distance from saddle to bars.
FTFY .. form >> function ;)
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• #79637
Or is it alu and I'm way off the mark?
yup.
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• #79638
Thanks for the suggestions. I think the latter Profile ones would be best suited (I can keep the internal cabling and slightly smaller to boot), I see there's a carbon version too which while not needed is a little smaller still. Shame that the mount/hinge is actually quite a bulky box as opposed to being nicely formed but best option seen so far.
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• #79639
Finished my nice bike. Attention already turning to a winter bike.
Thinking entirely British. With a max spend of about £350. Any suggestions on an old British built track frame that'd fit in this budget?
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• #79640
for the frame? could budget up for a Bob jackson
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• #79641
£350ish total. A 'beater' as folk on here might say.
Old frame. Spare parts. And cheap bits. For every day commuting.
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• #79642
You can et a ratty but high quality 531 track frame for under £100 as long as it's not from one of the really big name builders - Jackson's, Mercian etc. Have you got a parts bin of stuff to put on it or are you looking to buy a whole load of components too?
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• #79643
Watch classifieds like a hawk, good luck.
Might be better off finding a decent 531 frame with tight geo'
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• #79644
You can et a ratty but high quality 531 track frame for under £100 as long as it's not from one of the really big name builders - Jackson's, Mercian etc. Have you got a parts bin of stuff to put on it or are you looking to buy a whole load of components too?
Got some parts, like brake caliper & lever, bars. Major costs will be frame, wheels, crankset.
To be honest the budget isn't strict. Just a not too pricey target plucked out of the air.
But yeah, 531 not too flash track frame is what i'll be looking for. But i'm not sure what names to look for, past the recognised builders like the ones you mention.
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• #79645
Actually, if i went for a 100% British build then I've got zero parts, what am I talking about. Doh.
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• #79646
English frame builders are all called Dave, and then have fairly boring surnames
Dave Rusell
Dave Yates
Dave Hinde
Dave Lloyd
etc. -
• #79647
It's like cricketers, who are all called Graham. More seriously, I find frames by having a saved ebay search for 'frame' '531' '753' 'track' and auction, then just check it every couple of days for what comes up. There are/were so many builders that it's almost poinless trying to search for a specific one, and some of the bargains are when someone just puts 'old bike frame' as the description. It's also worth looking at pictures of lugwork etc. so you can get to know what's decent and what isn't.
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• #79648
Ta.
Yeah I was aware of Llyod and Yates of the Daves's. But will try your search trick. Thanks.
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• #79649
best option seen so far.
Cane Creek 200TT and SRAM TT500 are also options
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• #79650
Back on for Dunwich so gonna build up this with hoods and try and squeeze some 25c tyres on. Has anyone fit 18/23 raceblades on 25c tyres? Normal width rims, so should be 'true' 25c, overall diameter wise.

On that subject, anyone got TB14s? Do you actually notice the feel of them over normal width rims?
Sort of in the market for a new set of nice wheels, as I'm nowhere near a track at my new house and don't really feel comfortable riding a radially laced DA wheel on the roads while weighing 13 stone.
After something understated - low flange DA to TB14, prhaps.
gbj_tester
Aches
noca
Ordinata
kjlem
TM
Borek
Hairingtons
NickCJ
dglshrn
@emoxfag
Far be it from me to draw your attention to one of my own posts, the important part is really Scherritt's +1 which follows it, but:
https://www.lfgss.com/thread16289-86.html#post3645257
In other words, whether you need an in-line or set back post is to be settled first, independently of any concerns you have about the distance from saddle to bars. A set back post and short stem is not the same as an in-line post and a long stem, even if they result in the same relative positions of saddle and bars, because the more important relative position of BB and saddle will be different.