Current Projects chat and miscellany

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  • Finally accumulated most of the parts so I can start putting together this Rock Lobster Ti frame. Can't quite keep up with @ectoplasmosis levels of ano madness, but going for a similar neo-retro Ti build.

    Plan is for rigid carbon forks, 1x11 drivetrain, 650b wheels with "gravel" tyres and flat bars. Still trying to work out the optimum bar/stem dimensions. I've also got a pair of 26" Hope/Stans wheels with proper MTB tyres which should get me through the mud a bit better.

  • Nice! These are great frames, love the webbed dropouts. Will you be sanding off the clear coat and taking it back to raw Ti? New decals are easy to source.

    There are plenty of 440mm AtoC Pace RC31 carbon forks around, check Retrobike forums.

    Make a dedicated project thread!

  • Been thinking about what to do with the clear coat, as it's quite tatty in places and raw brushed ti looks much better, but I don't know how thick it is, or how much effort it is to remove.

    I've picked up a pair of On-one forks, which look to be a knock-off of the RC31 design. I know the RC31s had a rider weight limit, but I shouldn't be hitting anything too gnarly on this bike. Saw this on Cotic Soda recently which, along with your excellent build, is the inspiration. Although mines on a bit more of a budget!

  • A few sheets of fine wet & dry and red Scotchbrite strips will take care of it.

  • best place to get a carbon fork stripped and repainted without breaking the bank? I guess London preferably, but it could always go in the post.

  • I’ve got the same frame so close to finishing my build but I ended up buying a cheapo exotic carbon fork with 1mm clearance between the caliper and hub, gotta find a cheap pace rigid pace I think

  • Can you take a snap of this? Would be great for reference.

  • This is a pic before I put the calipers on, tried some hope ones I had that were hitting the hub, during lockdown I managed to get some trp mechanical calipers that worked but as I say scary close. I’ll take some better pics of how it’s setup now in the morning. Got a mate who had the same problem with the exotic fork


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  • Bravo!

    I don't have a cross bike. But if I see a bike like this, I (think I) need a cross bike :)

  • Bike looks rad af!

    Would love to see the fork/hub/caliper interface issue when you have a chance.

  • best place to get a carbon fork stripped and repainted without breaking the bank? I guess London preferably, but it could always go in the post.

    I'm also curious for advice on this, I recently bought a Serotta F1 to restore my Atlanta, sadly the green has go as it doesn't go particularly well with the red/yellow fade paintjob.


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  • Looks cool! Think yours is the later model with round tubes and slightly different dropouts?

    My On-One forks seem to be fine with my cx wheels (Formula hubs), but I’ve just noticed that with my 650b Fulcrum 7s driveside spokes somehow rub against the inside of the fork (not the actual carbon tube, but the chunky metal dropout).

    Not entirely sure what I can do about it, maybe a little washer on the DS axle might space it out enough, or file the metal bit of the dropout slightly?

  • I had a similar issue with a genuine Pace RC31 fork which the Exotic/On One are a ‘copy’ of.

    The rotor bolts were rubbing on the inside of one of the big ass dropouts, so I used low-profile conical head bolts and filed a tiny bit off the dropout then painted over it with Humbrol enamel. Works fine.

    How much do you reckon yours fouls the spokes?

  • If its the old On One forks with the black carbon legs and silver chunky alu drop outs and crown I had the same issue. Solved with a washer on the NDS Axle

  • It was probably 1-2mm max, only on the elbows of the spokes at the hub flange. I've found a random washer in my garage to put on the NDS axle, which appears to have fixed it. Obviously the washer is smooth rather than knurled like the outer locknut is, so it remains to be seen whether I get any issues with it slipping. @velosaurus - is this what your solution looked like too? Any issues?


  • I think I used a thin washer, just enough to the legs cleared the bolt heads. Used it like that for ages.

    IIRC that fork has quite a deep recess to capture the hub oln. I once did the descent on the rough track from Ooty Hill station in Tamil Nadu down to the Indian Ocean. Its one of the prettiest rides you can do and the descent is about 2o miles long. I didnt notice until about 2/3 way down that the pesky kids at the top had undone the QR on my front wheel.

  • I didnt notice until about 2/3 way down that the pesky kids at the top had undone the QR on my front wheel.

    They hadn't, QRs unscrew themselves when subjected to the wheel ejection force caused by disc brakes.

  • Yeah we all remember that very sad Fox forks Brecon Beacons incident and moved our QRs to the NDS because of that and watched it like a hawk. In this case no. This had been undone. I was just hungover and didnt check / notice. In that part of rural India, back then, the kids were all over your bike when you stopped. Never took anything, but pulled and twist every lever possible, to see what happens.

    The point is that fork has quite a recess so got away with it which re-assures a skinny shim washer will be fine.

  • Hmm... I’d be inclined to look for knurled/serrated washers...

  • The inside has quite a (cnc) captive cut out for the oln to sit in, unlike the pace or exotics, so as long as washer thin, not issue imo

  • Thanks, @Flandria
    In Flanders, life without a cross bike is unimaginable. 😊

  • Don't push me :)

  • pedal spanner. got my nitto compacts on to a dynamic with minimal scratching

  • Here’s the clearance from the fork to rotor bolts. Sorry for the shite pic. I remember Hope or Amp Research had discs with a counter sunk bolt. I think I’m gonna put on a set of suspension forks and just be done with it.


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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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