Current Projects chat and miscellany

Posted on
of 5,093
First Prev
/ 5,093
  • Damn, that merckx is something else. Must have cost a small fortune. Very rare, extremely good nick, this goin be good

  • But thats from 1.5" to 1 1/8? I would need one from 40mm to 30mm

    Same thing. 1⅛" headset bearings are 30mm ID, 1½" headset bearings are 40mm ID

    You can also use a ZS44/30 lower to fit a 1⅛" fork in a 44mm ID head tube, it alters the geometry a bit compared with EC44, but if your frame was always supposed to have a straight steerer, the geometry may already be set up for a ZS lower.

  • It is i guess! Website says ZS44 EC44. That's what i got now. A ZS44/28.6 in the top and ordered a ZS44/30 lower. It's not gold as the top from wolftooth but i couldn't find a fitting lower at wolftooth.

    Frame is 44mm and Fork has a race of 30mm. So ZS44/28.6 and ZS44/30 should be perfect.

  • I am using one to solve the same problem. It will work fine with an EC44 lower cup and 1 1/2" crown race on a straight 1 1/8" steerer. Think you are getting confused by the metric to imperial conversion and the dimension of the crown race shoulder at the bottom of the 1 1/8" fork (which is 30mm dia).

    The alternative is to use a ZS44 cup, but think it depends on what the frame was designed for.
    I looked at this initially, but it means the fork is effectively 15mm shorter as the ZS bearing sits inside the 44mm headtube as opposed to the external cup of the Ec44 and I didnt want to lose that length/negative handling effect.

    BTW the HS136 is a VERY tight fit on the fork 30mm crown race shoulder. The trick is to put it in boiling water first to expand it. It will then contract onto the fork steerer to be a very snug fit.

  • Sorry missed the last two comments whilst was replying

  • It isnt clear whether that frame geometry is designed for an EC or ZS lower cup. Geometry drawing suggests ZS lower, but all google images show it with an EC lower. Think I would want to clarify that with Veloci Cycle, and fit whichever lower cup they recommend.

  • The picture on their website should be a ZS?

    Thanks for the fitting tips. But I would prefer to put in in the oven and not in boiling water. Maybe even treat the fork with dry ice. I repair helicopters by trade so everything would be available.

    1 Attachment

    • IMG_9484.jpg
  • Correct, but the Spec list says EC44. I would check with them if was me.

    Thanks for the fitting tips. But I would prefer to put in in the oven and not in boiling water. Maybe even treat the fork with dry ice. I repair helicopters by trade so everything would be available.

    Whichever works for you!

  • the Spec list says EC44

    It say it will fit ZS44 or EC44. Obvs.

    That allows people to fit tapered crabon forks if they don't like the stock steel one.

  • I did. Talked to them yesterday, sorry I thought I wrote that here. But it was in the project thread. He even said that 44/40 should fit. But I think he was confused with what I wanted. He told me ideally get the ZS44/30

  • Went to visit the family today for some socially distant quality time, so thought I might as well take my new cyclocross race bike for a shakedown ride around the Hambleton peninsula at Rutland Water. It's a bit frisky.

    1 Attachment

    • _20200801_185420.JPG
  • Gone 1x with the caad 5

    1 Attachment

    • IMG_20200801_195526.jpg
  • New seatpost, seatpost clamp, stem, polished some old mtb bars, new brakes.

    This thing is ridiculously fun to ride!

  • No gear or brake cables to destroy racing (or the washing afterwards). Nice.

  • Looks kewl. Is that a stripped flite?

  • That looks great. And fast.

  • Ye looks fast. 1x road bikes look cool

  • Yeah it's a flite, does the job

  • Looks superclean! I've stripped a turbo saddle before, but it looks way more trashy. Did you give it a special treatment?

  • Too be honest, I bought it like this. Hadn't really put much thought in treating it, I've had it for a few years now it's still fine

  • Not quite cable free - the angle of the photo is deceptive. Still, fairly minimal. Hoses and Di2 cables go inside the bar, with a bar end Junction A box. Only took 3 hours to get them all in place.

    1 Attachment

    • _20200802_201340.JPG
  • If not hydro, and then, when the outers start gumming up, and you need to replace them, and it's all neatly heat shrink wrapped, what do you do? (Asking for a friend)

  • They're hydro brakes. R785s. By the time the hoses need replacing I'll be dead, so it'll be an SEP.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview

Current Projects chat and miscellany

Posted by Avatar for emoxfag @emoxfag