And then where does the RD cable go?
I bought an Inbred frame to replace my cracked Gary Fisher and I'm swapping over the parts now. Can anyone recommend good affordable hydraulic discbrakes? I'm thinking about getting deore.
I'd imagine the inner cable for the RD comes out of the little hole, through the guide, along to a cable stop on the DS chainstay and then into a section of outer cable taking it to the RD.
He said there’s only one entry on the downtube so you couldn’t have both FD and RD
That would make sense but yes as @PhilDAS mentions, it only has one entry point... quite baffling tbh. The previous owner smashed two cables into one hole and thats why theres evidence of cable rub on the bb shell
Been searching for ages for a 1'' steel CX frame with no luck so I've settled on this for the time being. I think it'll turn out nice for a rainy day, lock-up bike. Chain, DIY chain guide and tweaking as soon as I get some free time then just need some slightly smaller tyres and then the fenders can go on.
According to my man-conomics I've spent something like 60€ on the whole build since everything bar the frame was in my spare parts bin. That's how I justify it in my head anyway. Makes perfect sense.
Is that Milosh or Miyota, eyesights not what it was. Whats the story on the frame, I love it. Fastback stays too.
Is that Milosh or Miyota
Is that Milosh or Miyota
Miyata. Basically the negative image of this:
Ah cheers, they did make a fair bit of exotica I think. I remember @WimVDD had a couple of really nice examples.
It's not bad tbh, it's a Miyata Quickcross, basically a bonded aluminium frame with steel stays and a cromo fork. Despite using ''cross'' in its' name it's more of an early 90's hybrid/ touring bike sort of frame with many eyelets and mounts, even midfork ones too as well as decent clearance for tyres. These are 42mm ones and have 1-2mm of clearance on each side of the chainstays which is really pushing it though.
maybe they also drilled the little hole? since it's a TT frame it was probably never intended to have a front mech
Examples of? Miyata's?
Wasn't there an amazing red and black crackle finish one?
Completed this 1978 Peugeot PSN10 in Reynolds 531 from racer to cruiser for a friend.
Found wide alloy clinchers (17mm internal) to replace the tubs so they allow tyres to "balloon" less and I managed to squeeze 35mm tyres in the frameset. Lovely!
After giving it a good clean, here are the new parts fitted:
The new wheels took me aaaages to sort out. Serviced the wheel hubs, trued the wheels radially & laterally, fitted new rim tape.
No wonder bike shops don't want to deal with old wheels, it wouldn't be commercially viable to charge time-spent.
Used parts fitted include a Huret front derailleur, the original Simplex one had a one of those ABS plastic clamps which had unfortunately snapped.
Maiden voyage tomorrow to see if it's working well!
I have a red vintage Alan cx bike, no Miyata.
Are there DT shifter braze ons?
Could it be possible the front mech was operated by a band on shifter on the seatpost? Being a LoPro bike.
EDIT: Actually that won't work. Ignore me.
My guess is it was pre-drilled or drilled in error and never meant for a FD.
Rode it today and it is very nice with the big grippy tyres, chilled bars, and of course the english made 531 tubes!
Are you riding this now? Spotted a very similar build in the wild this morning
What brake pads are those btw? Kool Stop? Looks massive!
Nice, @Vince .
Going for something similar starting from this wreck
NOS Fibrax 70mm cantilever pads - £1.70 for 2x pairs posted!
Also available in red:
And in yellow:
I think it will look great when all done up.
New chain, new pedal, new saddle, new tyres, new brake pads
Remove rack, rear lock and mudguards
Full service and good to go!
What are the hive mind's feeling on Bull Moose bars? Thinking about putting them on my Surly once I have switched to 650b s. Debating with model will suit me best, would like to test them out.
Also considering this:
Thought it might give the Surly a classic path racer look/feel
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