Non-digital film photography and cameras

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  • A goat that my daughter was feeding at the activity farm in the New Forest.

    It was a roll of Kodak T-Max 100, which I developed in TMax developer.There was not really enough light in the barn so the negative was really thin, I probably should have pushed the development a bit as most of the pics were underexsposed, but I'm new to this so its a learning curve:

  • ...does anyone else know a place to get a P&S repaired in London....

    http://www.sendeancameras.co.uk/

  • That's lovely, Simon. Got major Leica envy right now. :)

  • "Photography as a fad is well-nigh on its last legs, thanks principally to the bicycle craze" -- Alfred Stieglitz, the American Annual of Photography 1897
    ha!

  • lol.

    that's up there with my 2 other fave quotes

    “Photography is 1% inspiration and 99% moving furniture.” Arnold Newman
    (i shoot a fair bit of interiors/furniture)

    and non photography related:

    "Our youth now love luxury. They have bad manners, contempt for authority; they show disrespect for their elders and love chatter in place of exercise; they no longer rise when elders enter the room; they contradict their parents, chatter before company; gobble up their food and tyrannize their teachers."

    Socrates.

  • After doing some searching I think my Ricoh GR1 is broken. I was pointed towards Camera City(any good?) but does anyone else know a place to get a P&S repaired in London.

    ***The lens extends and the focus works, but when I push the shutter button there are some faint, rapid clicking noises and the shutter won't open. Then the film advances fine.

    I've tried the camera on P, with different f-stops, on time exposure and other modes but the shutter won't open. It just makes very faint clicking noises.***

    Talk to Ricoh UK's rep. He'll arrange for it to go to Germany for inspection and a quote. I've just had a GR1s repaired. It's not quick or cheap but they will still repair analogue cameras. Nikon have just repaired my 28ti too (to my surprise).

    If the quote comes in too steep then Ziggy of London Camera Repair Centre in Notting Hill will probably give it a go. He sorts out my SLRs nicely.

  • A goat that my daughter was feeding at the activity farm in the New Forest...

    looks ace to me!

  • Anyone on here tried stand developing, particularly in Rodinal or R09 One Shot?

  • Interested in this^ as well.

    From what I have read it is good for when you want to retain highlights in contrasty subjects.

  • have done it (stand dev) with mixed results.
    Have had issues with uneven development on 120 and halo-ing around edges - better when swirled every 20mins rather than complete stand dev

    Certainly worth experimenting with - rodinal is cheap and lasts forever :)

  • I've been using R09 One Shot and 120 Tri-X pushed to iso800.
    1+100 dilution.
    Tried 1 hour, invert once then swirl at 1/2 hour and my film was under developed.
    Tried cuttings at 1+100 for 1hr, invert agitation every 5 min for 1st 20 then every min for last 5, 1+100 for 2hours invert once then swirl at half time and 1+50 for 1hr invert once then swirl at half time. These all produced very similar looking negs which I have yet to print from.

  • i used to use rodinal and HC-110 at low dilutions but always gave some agitation.
    i used the zone system and a spot meter usually pushing or pulling by a couple of mins with 5x4, 6x6. i understood how my 35mm meter was metering for grey (so would make white things and black things grey because essentially it's a dumb photocell that thinks everything should be grey).
    negs were always perfect with long toe and shoulder, no grey mushy prints.

    metro used to do a developer that stained the negs brown, i can't remember the name but it too was a compensating developer like rodinal but was less grainy.

    these devs piss over d-76 (if used properly)
    stop wanking over leicas and learn to expose properly and understand how your meter works.

  • Interested in this^ as well.

    From what I have read it is good for when you want to retain highlights in contrasty subjects.

    I'd read it was a good way to push film (specifically Tri-X) and keep the grain down.

    I've ordered a copy of Ansel Adams' The Negative from Abe Books which will hopefully shed some light on the technicalities of development and allow me to refine my technique further.

  • stop wanking over leicas and learn to expose properly and understand how your meter works.

    Excuse me?

  • those times sound very long. dunno about R09 but does it work as a comp developer? i know HC-110 worked well at the lower dilution and if the ambi temp was not up to 20° then i just adjusted the time. was into the 25min area instead of the usual 7-12 so not the hours you are using.
    if your negs are thin no amount of fancy developing is going to sort them out. maybe dev 2 identical rolls the normal and compensating way to see if it's the time/dilution that's off

  • Excuse me?

    a general rant not aimed at anyone in particular about how people wank over fast lenses and old camera bodies but don't understand how to use them.
    control the medium and you can express yourself through your images knowing how it will reproduce the moment you press the shutter, until you know how your meter works it's a happy accident or thin negs.

    the negative is a great book as is this
    Amazon.com: Zone VI Workshop (9780817405748): Fred Picker: Books

  • those times sound very long. dunno about R09 but does it work as a comp developer? i know HC-110 worked well at the lower dilution and if the ambi temp was not up to 20° then i just adjusted the time. was into the 25min area instead of the usual 7-12 so not the hours you are using.
    if your negs are thin no amount of fancy developing is going to sort them out. maybe dev 2 identical rolls the normal and compensating way to see if it's the time/dilution that's off

    I'm not too familiar with/knowledgeable about compensating developers/development but from a quick googling yes I think it does work as a compensating developer.

  • a general rant not aimed at anyone in particular about how people wank over fast lenses and old camera bodies but don't understand how to use them.
    control the medium and you can express yourself through your images knowing how it will reproduce the moment you press the shutter, until you know how your meter works it's a happy accident or thin negs.

    the negative is a great book as is this
    Amazon.com: Zone VI Workshop (9780817405748): Fred Picker: Books

    Fair dos, thought it was aimed at me for some reason.
    I think, or at least hope that I'm getting a good handle on working my camera (not a leica btw) and meter but don't doubt that I still have a lot to learn.

  • those 2 books and getting odd smelling chemicals on your hands is a good way to start. :-)

  • My copy of The Negative is coming from USA but will hopefully be here soon.
    Just bought a copy of that book you suggested off the bay.
    Cheers.

  • I got the negative for x-mas. It makes a lot if sense and it really helps with the way you think about the picture before you take it.

    I do photography as a hobby as I think it is fun. I dont prerend that my leica makes my pictures any better as the camera is a far from the limiting factor. My skill is what is lacking, but hey it is a hobby. I do however love the leica for the beautiful thing that I think it is. In the same way I like nice watches.

  • stop wanking over leicas and learn to expose properly and understand how your meter works.

    Excuse me?

    Just the voice of a bitter packshot man :)

    (Grounded in complete sense though)

  • Ooh! I think i have this chinon kicking about somewhere.

    New years resolution #300: Take more pictures. picking up some new batteries for my OM-10 to use about town, going to take some pics on my lunchbreaks.

  • Anyone on here tried stand developing, particularly in Rodinal or R09 One Shot?

    Have tried it many times, Tri-X @ 1600 & 1250 asa - Rodinal 1:100, gentle swirl for 30 sec, stand 30 mins, 30 secs swirl, stand 30 mins.

    I can honestly say I have never got consistent results. Rodinal 1:50 for around 18 mins will give you better results.

    If you will be regularly pushing Tri-X up to 1250-1600 then Diafine or any two bath will give more consistent results especially for wet printing.

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Non-digital film photography and cameras

Posted by Avatar for GA2G @GA2G

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