Non-digital film photography and cameras

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  • "That's it droop those ears, work it. Good girl!"

  • last one..... Dunottar Half Frame Panorama 1 of 2

  • some great stuff in the last few pages. Particularly enjoting the evolution of the work of @mi7rennie

  • Asian tourists are my fave thing.


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  • Ekatar in the rain.


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  • I'm sure this has been asked before but where can I post my films to and receive HQ images back by email/on cd?

  • I use filmdev.co.uk and really like their service.

  • Thanks very much, that's appreciated.

    Also I lied about that one ^ being the last one.....

    Dunottar Half Frame Panorama 2 of 2

  • I'm having a bit of a clear out, and have a Paterson Super System 4 developing tank up for free if anybody would like? Comes in original box with instructions and one reel (can take two). Pickup NW10 or can meet central on weekends.

  • Apologies for going over old ground, where is recommended to get very high quality hand prints from negative? Colour and b+w?

    Thanks

  • See the very first post in this thread. Some links there. Also, what city, or maybe you don't mind it being sent and received via post?

  • I'd recommend filmdev.co.uk too. Quick turn around and good value for money

  • Pinhole on the OM-2n, trying to come up with some long exposures for the photo comp.

    A bit disappointed with my pinhole, it seems to be around f64, thought it would be more like f150.

    Will see the results tonight.


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  • Very nice.

    What film?

  • Cheers. First one ektar, second is portra 160

  • OM-2n with pinhole lens cap.
    HP5 film.
    Rodinal 1:100 stand dev.

    These are not very sharp, any ideas how to improve the results with a pinhole?


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  • and another couple.


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  • Nice! Probably the thickness of the lens cap causing diffraction. Just a guess...

  • you won't get sharp with a pinhole. I can't remember the formula but the optimum sharpness is a balance between small (smaller=sharper in general, since light travels in straight lines) and not too small (you start to get diffraction since light is a wave). it's probably online somewhere, it's not too difficult to work out using a typical wavelength of visible light and the distance between pinhole and film.
    what helps is having the pinhole as thin as possible, but you probably know that. are you using thin brass sheet? sand it down thinner where the pinhole is (so long as it doesn't become translucent) and take off any burrs from making the hole.
    beyond that, the non-sharpness is one of the joys of pinholes - nothing is in 'focus' but everything is just as sharp, from foreground to distant.

  • Diffraction can start setting in as low as f16 on 35mm IIRC, so f64 is going to have some.

  • Yeah, I have a small pinhole made in thin brass inserted to the lens cap. I'm not sure about the optimum size but away to have a google.

  • These are not very sharp, any ideas how to improve the results with a pinhole?

    I have made rather big pinhole cameras out of shoe-boxes (exposing paper) as well as tiny ones out of matchboxes (exposing film).
    Of course the "negatives" from the shoe boxes were huge but I've always found I get sharper results with bigger boxes.
    I also tried, like you, making a lenscap-pinhole (but with DSLRs) - never turned out well.

    The only tip I can give you regarding the pinhole itself is that I had best results with pieces of red bull type cans, making a bump (not a hole) in it with a needle, then sanding the bump with fine sandpaper in circles until you "open" the bump. Check for burrs with a loupe.

    Good luck!

    Ps: If you haven't yet go build a shoebox-one! It's big fun!

  • I'm trying to upload photos to ignant as submission but it says the images are too large. Any recommendations?

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Non-digital film photography and cameras

Posted by Avatar for GA2G @GA2G

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