-
• #3278
cheers i need to learn about power meters and stuff
-
• #3279
You can try out turbo training very cheaply - dumb wheel-on turbo, no need for a PM yet. I used a basic trainer (that I swapped for a bag of coffee) for a couple of years. The Kickr I have now is really great, but you'll get almost the same training benefit from something cheap.
The Muin looks like a decent half-way house, unless you find a great deal on a Kickr or something.
-
• #3280
yeah im scanning gumtree and ebay. ill keep reading up on options. thansk all
-
• #3281
Yeah, I wouldn't fret about power. I've only just come round to training with power thanks to a wheel I picked up from Bainbridge.
I'd get a basic unit, then usually you have some way of working out your cadence and hr and feeding it to you devoce. Use that. Then upgrade as a treat when you're making progress. Otherwise you but stuff. Hate it. Stick it in the shed. Sell.becaue you have to pay a monthly fee if you use tr/zwift.
-
• #3282
I think what Rich is wanting is a way to measure power and control resistance without dropping ~£1k on the latest Wahoo or Tacx.
I’ve used a dumb trainer with a crank based PM for years to pretty good effect. The Roadmachine or Kickr Snap would be a step up from that.
I don’t know anyone who rates the Turbo Muin. Elite seem to have got it right with their new direct drive trainers but you’re looking at £600 plus I think.
-
• #3283
I should add that I used a speed and cadence sensor on a dumb Cycleops fluid trainer to reasonable effect but I don’t think the power curve trainerroad worked from was reliable.
-
• #3284
bang on. i really like the idea of ap based control resistance with out havong to set it yourself and a way of measuring output for zwift/ trainer road should i get that in too it.
A grand is way out of my budget, also i like the idea of being able to race friends who will still be in HK when im in the uk via virtual stuff, id rather have a unit that is plug and go but im willing to try other methods but im just not very knowledgeable about the ways round.
i am reading many articles and slowly getting my head round it. -
• #3285
I’ve got a Road Machine that I no longer need. It’s in SE13 and yours for a forum donation if you can pick it up.
-
• #3287
Kicke Snap is £429. You should see if any of the big retailers will ship to HK VAT free.
I saved a fortune on stuff that way when I was out there.
-
• #3289
Rich, you should also consider where you're going to train: indoors/outdoors?
I don't/won't/can't train indoors because noise/temperature/hate the idea of using electricity to either power a device to train on or cool me down.
It does mean I have days like today where the back yard and a garden brolly come in useful. Or go for a run. But if you're rehabbing a knee back to fitness then running isn't really an option...Are you looking to start now, or when you get back?
Your needs:
a trainer
a trainer wheel+ cassette + tyre (it's just easier)
cadence / wheel revolution sensor (saris/powertap is good here)
HRM
phone/laptop/tablet
phone / tablet mount or laptop table
training mat (if indoors)
front wheel holder thing
sweat thong for the bike
if indoors some sort of air mover (https://www.cleva-uk.com/products/vacmaster-air-mover)
if outdoors a garden brollyThat will get you started, then you could add either:
powertap wheel
stages arm -
• #3290
amazing cheers D :)
looking to start when i get back.
the trainer is exactly because i cant run or play football for a good long while 6 to 8 months is what they said. i fucked the knee quite bad + im not as young as i used to be so healing up.thanks for this list big help
-
• #3291
No probs. It's best to have it all listed so there's no surprises.
Also. There will be a day you get a puncture on the turbo wheel. And you'll think "how the fuck".
Also. Your first session is essentially the first day at work trying to get everything to pair and see each other. It's IT Crowd with bikes. -
• #3292
and ANT+/Bluetooth dongle if phone/laptop/tablet doesn't do it natively/doesn't do it well/isn't near enough sensors
Your first session is essentially the first day at work trying to get everything to pair and see each other.
So true although probably take you three or so before you have everything positioned ;-)
-
• #3293
Oh yeah. THAT OLD CHESTNUT.
-
• #3294
Also as it's a wheel-on trainer you'll be annoying anyone you live with or above or below with the noise despite the fact you can't hear anything as you've got headphones on.
-
• #3295
I think what Rich is wanting is a way to measure power and control resistance without dropping ~£1k on the latest Wahoo or Tacx.
I've still got a Computrainer that works perfectly well for this. I actually went back to it when the KICKR shat itself. It's a solid unit, only let down by the fact it doesn't work with thru-axle bikes (fine for my old Shiv, Tarmac, etc).
-
• #3296
Jesus - I think Anquetil used one of those.
-
• #3297
Shows how solid they are.
-
• #3298
Your needs:
Don’t forget a dedicated ‘turbo towel’ when your other half has a go at you for stinking up the ‘nice towels’
Oh and a sweatband
And a 2nd fan
Decent headphones -
• #3299
Sweatband is a must
-
• #3300
I don't see any self-loathing on that list
Think TrainerRoad rate the Road Machine and have a pretty accurate virtual power curve for it - that's where they take the wheel speed and estimate your power from that. You'll still have the variable of tyre pressure / roller-to-wheel pressure though.
I'd look out for a second hand direct drive smart trainer on ebay or here, or if that's a bit too much look for a non-smart direct drive, like the Muin. If you do get into it, you can always get a powermeter later which will work with whatever turbo you have, and outdoors. I managed to get a set of Rotor Inpower cranks for £150 - if you set up searches etc on ebay something will turn up eventually.