• Hi there, got a problem with a fixed BB cup on the driveside of a lovely Lapierre 531 frame I was given. Its a French, R hand thread. It hasn't shifted one iota with the proper cup extractor tool and a 10 foot scaffold pole being used on it, even after a 2 week soak in rusteater. Vaz offered to whack a new ISO BB shell in there for a very good price but I want to keep the paint and patina intact.

    So its got to be cut out.

    My question is: does anybody know of an engineering shop in south London who is friendly enough to take this on? Needs either a horizontal mill or a drill press. I have seen that Ryan at oak cycles has done this before but I also understand he's not mad about taking on small jobs like this.

    I have a 30mm starrett HSS hole cutter. My idea is to drill from the non drive side and take out the middle of the cup, leaving approx 2.5mm each side - hoping that the clockwise cutting motion also loosens the fucker (optomist). Then I was hoping to take the rest out by running a 32tpi hacksaw through....though some thread damage is inevitable its the way that would give me finest control.

    All of this feels a bit like escaping from Shawshank with a rock hammer, can anyone whose been in this position offer guidance or a good metal basher who can help?

    thanks

    Dave

  • Have you tried to use a vise? You will have a better lever arm like this.

    I bought the same BB as @IR, but now I'm confused: I don't have any piece like the "star spacer" in this picture:

    Is it annoying? Does it work without this piece?
    Thanks for your help!

  • Mine didn't come with one either, it's not caused a problem for me with Omniums or with my stylos currently on the 29er.

    Have you tried to fit it to see if it's fine?

  • Not yet, not yet :) I'm trying to understand how it works to avoid any "bad experimentation".
    Do you remember if you used the spacers provided?

  • Not for the MTB but perhaps I used one for omniums, if I did it would have been for chainline and not general fit.

    Can't really remember, sorry.

  • Thanks for your help IR! This was a stupid question anyway, because it completely depends of the frame. I will try without it and see how it goes.

  • This is probably an incredibly obvious question but can one use a double crank with a track chainring, obviously providing they have the same BCD. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work but just wanted to check.

  • I presume it would work then.

  • Hey guys! I'm kinda noob in this things, so there is a question. I have a FSA Compact crankset 50/34. Will it works if I change 50 chainring to 38 or so, so there is will be 38/34 crankset? Will it shifts fine?

  • Just bought this Miche Primato Advanced from a fellow forum user - just wondering what bb I need, I know its BSA and 107mm, but I am unsure if its JIS or ISO I need to be getting or will any Miche BB do? Thanks for any help.


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  • I have just bought a condor track frame and it still has a section of the bottom bracket in.
    Can someone point me in the right direction for the correct tool or is there a way of getting it out without the tool.
    Any help would be great.


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  • I'm sure this has been covered before, but I've tried searching and can't find it.

    I run an 8 speed drive, but want to upgrade my crankset as they are heavy and too long (175mm). Will my 8 speed chain and 8 speed Claris FD run ok with this 9 speed chainset?

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111221124445?_­trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&var=41024106­0291&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    From other forums I've read, the general consensus it "it might work but you might get chain rub". Wondered if anyone on here had direct experience of the issue. Thanks x

  • I do believe that the newer style Miche Primato Advanced use a JIS taper 107mm BB. Miche randomly changed their taper from the old style 135bcd crank set to the new style you have pictured (144bcd).

    The older "Pr1mato" cranksets use an ISO 107mm taper, although I'll be trying a 102mm Chorus BB soon to try solve a chainline issue.

  • Thanks for that, will try a JIS - when it arrives. :-)

  • Gents, anyone runs Dura ace 7600 hub+EAI superstar cog? if yes, hows the chainline?
    I run Omniums+ChrisKing+Pauls+EAIsuperstar = chainline ±2-3mm off..

  • Need your advice, tryed my luck here - https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/1464­00/?offset=2550 but did not get any helpful information.

    I'm running the Miche Primato Advanced (JIS) crankset + Miche Primato BB (JIS) 107mm + Miche primato hub + Miche cog. The chainline is perfect, what is not perfect is this:

    Please look at the spacing between chainstay and chainring bolt with a 107mm BB on a 2015 Parallax. It's like 1mm, because of a bb spacer my LBS put in. If not that spacer I wouldnt be able to ride it at all.

    I had those exact parts on my previous frame 2013 Langster and the spacing was fine. Since when 107mm bb is not enough length on a track frame?

    Any advice or user experience?

    Thanks!

  • Friend of mine has one of these on his bike: shimano-ultegra-6800-bottom-bracket

    He needs to remove it.

    However, the size of the outer seems to have changed (is smaller) so my usual BB tool doesn't fit.

    Any ideas of who sells either a tool to remove, or an adapter for the standard tool (Park BBT9)?

  • My new bb (Ultegra) came with a plastic adaptor tool which spaced my HT2 tool down to the required size. Obviously this doesn't particularly help but if he's buying a new BB the tool should come with.

  • @Brookly_Bay ^this. If your friend is buying a new BB to replace it the tool will come with the BB.

  • I remember reading that this was a common problem with Miche Cranks - Miche BB _Dolan PC, so its not just your Parallax. I have the same setup on my Dolan Track Champion but strangely enough the Miche 107mm BB gave me a 45mm chainline. Now I`m using a Sugino 105mm BB for a 43mm chaninline and spaced my cog out by 1mm.

    As other people have said in the Mash thread I would either add another one or two BB spacers or get a wider BB so you are not hitting the chainstays when the crank flexes under power. Perfect chaninline isn't that important but maybe you can space the cog 1mm further out at the same time, that way you still have a perfect chainline

  • @BTR88 Thanks friend.
    I already ordered a 110mm Miche Primato BB. I hope this will "untighten" the situation, but on other hand it's only 1,5mm longer on each side. :) Alas, 110mm is the longest Miche makes.

    Will keep you updated.

    P.S. I rode the bike as it is and I can say it's one stiff frame, not a single stroke even with 1mm clearance from chainring spider. On other hand, maybe I dont have enough pedalling power to make it flex. :)

  • Anyone have any idea what kind of torque is spec for Sugino messenger crankset? Ta

  • Hey, I have a Motobecane super mirage. I have no idea how old it is, trying to find out now, but it has a braze on for the front derailleur if that helps. Anyway, I'm trying to find a bottom bracket for it and headset, I have no idea what I can use since I dunno what threading it has (French/Swiss or English).

    Anybody got any ideas??

  • Hi there,
    I hope have Hi there,
    I hope have the right space for basic guidance.
    I have had a fixed speed Langster for some years and it has been a loyal and reliable workhorse that has needed little maintenance. Recently I have had some creaking noise coming from the chainset/ (crank?) that I find annoying. Looking online I see it is not too big a job and would like to attempt changing it myself. Partly behind this is that I got hold of a ‘alternative bike co’ single speed for my 13 year old son as hopefully a way to get him into bikes and building. This too needs the chainset changing and other work. This is basically a long winded way of asking if anyone can guide us what standard set we should go for (nothing for performance but quality at a ok price). Would we need to change the chain(s) and back cog etc.. I think it they are the common threaded shimianno.

    Any helpful tip and suggestions would be great

    Thank you
    the right space for basic guidance.
    I have had a fixed speed Langster for some years and it has been a loyal and reliable workhorse that has needed little maintenance. Recently I have had some creaking noise coming from the chainset/ (crank?) that I find annoying. Looking online I see it is not too big a job and would like to attempt changing it myself. Partly behind this is that I got hold of a ‘alternative bike co’ single speed for my 13 year old son as hopefully a way to get him into bikes and building. This too needs the chainset changing and other work. This is basically a long winded way of asking if anyone can guide us what standard set we should go for (nothing for performance but quality at a ok price). Would we need to change the chain(s) and back cog etc.. I think it they are the common threaded shimianno.

    Any helpful tip and suggestions would be great

    Thank you

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Transmission database - for all your crank / bb / bottom bracket questions

Posted by Avatar for kowalski @kowalski

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