I'm trying to run a new veloce 10 speed front mech with oldish 10 speed Chorus setup, but can't get the front mech to shift up to the big ring. The chainrings are TA (vento) I think -I'm trying top run a 39/50 combo. Any ideas what the problem might be, or if there is a compatibility issue anyone?
It should work, there isn’t a significant change in derailleur geometry. Is there enough cable tension and are the limit screws set correctly?
Anyone know what tool I need to get this off? I’ve already managed to remove the outer ring using my lock ring tool, but this thing needs a specific tool.
Also, any idea which way it will need to turn to get it out? The outer ring came off anti-clockwise.
Sorted it. Hammer and screw driver :)
I need to change the otp crankset that came with a pompino to a chainring with 26t.
Could I get an Id on what type of bottom bracket Ill need for this frame please?
anyone know what BB tool would be needed?
shape seems to be small notch followed by a very large notch, repeated all the way around.
Or can a motorcycle oil filter tool do the job?
Need some help fitting a Sram GX dub crank to a voodoo. Voodoo has a FSA BB-7420 73x113mm shell. Bike is going to 1x 12 speed. Can someone recommend what bottom bracket I should be fitting here to achieve a good chain line?
External BBs don't have the spindle requirements like BBs of old.
Look for BSA SRAM DUB BB (incidentally, thats what the Prime hub posted above I am trying to figure out the BB tool required) they will be 68/73, with associated spacers.
The cranks will have the spindle attached already, and you want a narrow wide chain ring to keep the thing aligned.
Watch out for boost spaced rear wheels, they need an offset chain ring for the wider rear.
Couple of questions please.
SRAM gxp. On a 68mm BB SRAM say put 2.5mm spacer each side but I have read several accounts on here of people not using them. Do they make any difference?
My second hand crank only has a single bolt holding it together. There are two bolts normally
What does the second larger bolt do of anything?
I'm looking at this. Maybe for the Prime too.
I'd assemble the bb on the spindle and see what kinda width you get to. I thought GXP didn't need spacers but maybe I'm thinking of the road/track version as it was with Omnoms that I used it so maybe the mtb version needs spacers as per Shimano.
The larger bit is the self extracting cap, screws into the arm after the crank bolt and the crank bolt pushes against it to remove the crank when you undo the bolt.
Ah ok that makes sense thanks.
I also have a GXP question - am I missing a plastic shield on the non drive side here? I’m almost certain I am (ID of the bearing is larger than the spindle), so follow up question: anyone know where I can buy that? Working from the parts bin so no idea what spacers/shields it had new and have not been able to google it
Yes if you do an image search for gxp shield it's the one with the star cutout to fit over the end of the crank axle
right ok thanks for getting back to me! is this the right one? was thrown off by the "press fit"
Took my bike to the LBS with a noisy BB. Turns out the carbon sleeve (?) has been damaged and so BB is loose. Spoke to Carbon Repair Place in Leatherhead as recommended and quoted possibly up to £360 + paint and would need new BB and. CHainset.
That makes the repair uneconomical. I bought the frame second hand and it’s been on Zwift duty on a Tacx Neo. Possibly that’s the problem - I’ve heard carbon and static trainers can cause issues.
Anyway - if I don’t want to pay up for a repair is there a bodge that could get the BB wedged tightly again. I accept that this may cause more issues down the line, but the frame would be written off in any case and will only have indoor duties from now on so not worried about high speed frame failure.
Useless photo below - not even sure if it’s the side that is problematic.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Fairly basic request. Does anyone know of a source for a spare sleeve for T47 Bb (CK, obvs)? I've managed to munch one during installation.
What is the usual torque recommended to install a crankset on a square taper BB?
Came across 35 to 45 Nm from parktool spreadsheet, 35 Nm from Probikeshop recommendation, and some sources also for around 35 Nm.
Contacted the manufacturer directly that handed me a document where it states "left arm (shim) 12 to 15Nm", suspected it was for hollow BB and not square for the mention of left arm only and much lower torque compared to what I came across, but when I raised the interrogation they did not answer back.
So anyone got a usual torque recommendation for these? And please do not describe how you install it by feel, I am after a reference value because I am already doing it by feel but would like to install the next one properly as much as possible.
Anyone with technical advices such as @gbj_tester for example :)?
Does anyone happen to have a gxp bottom bracket non drive side washer knocking about their parts bin that they wouldn't mind posting to me? I've lost mine when my crank fell off (long story) and am loathe to pay £10 for a new one. It's the one with the star like cut out in.
My DA 7410 Cartridge BB is feeling quite rough, anyone know if this can be serviced or will it be easier to just get a replacement?
Easier to replace, but if you’ve got the time and interest you might wanna give it a shot at servicing.
According to that article, they were able to remove the side covers on the bearing cartridges, exposing the bearings. If you can do this, then you can service the cartridge like you would a Chris King hub. You might find once you’ve cleaned the gunk out that the bearings/races aren’t worth servicing though.
In two minds as there aren't alot of 68x103 bb replacement out there atm and all the BB on ebay around£50 plus...
DA 7410 Cartridge BB
DA 7410 Cartridge BB
Could try a Tange Seiki for £25?
If you have the tools, it’s a 30-60 minute job (assuming it’s doable). Put on an audiobook or podcast and save £50? No condescension intended, dunno if it comes across that way.
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