Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • Does anyone have any experience with this? Makes me think of framebuilder jigs and seems sound and good value for money, but I don't know anything about wheelbuilding...

    It's this one


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  • If I wanted to go full hipster slave and buy 88mm deep rims, are the Chinese ones on ebay OK?

    What's ppls thoughts?

    What's the most likely thing to fail? And how soon will it take? Weeks? Months? "They're fine! Don't stress it"?

  • What's ppls thoughts?

    There's a thread for that.

  • Great!!!

    Thanks Testr!

  • Looks quite purposeful that - I have seen similar DIY efforts knocked up using aluminium extrusion, ignoring the gauges you could do something similar for not much cash if you worked out exactly what you need re. fixings and got hands on... I have had similar thoughts & never got round to doing it so I can see the appeal in just buying one

  • Yeah, I'm deciding between this and a second hand ts 2.2 for about half but with a missing caliper arm

  • The Wiggle / CRC Lifeline one bears a striking resemblance to the 2.2 for £90 - not sure what it's like in the flesh, have used the 2.2 before & it's nice - I'm kinda in the same boat, don't want to spend a fortune on one but don't want something that's going to annoy me every time I use it...

  • Any builders on here have 20 silver DT Swiss comps in 303 length? Cheers in advance!

  • Looks like it might get tiresome to use with having to slide the arm in and out for different oln widths then use the skewer to hold the wheel securely.

    With a ts2.2 style stand you can leave the skewer in if its a quick true up or whip it out and be able to go very quickly between the stand and the floor to do the stress relieving thing.

    If it'd been priced competitvely - by which I mean cheaper than a ts2.2 knock off - then maybe but at that money, no way.

  • Cheers 👍🏻👍🏻

    Another question, I’ve had a rear built up by a LBS (never used them before) and I’ve got the wheel back after 2 1/2 months as ‘they couldn’t get hold of the spokes’. I’ve just noticed that one spoke has 3 or 4 threads still exposed - is this spoke too short? Will it cause me issues? All the others have no thread visible... cheers in advance!

    Build is DT Swiss oxic rim on Bitex hub laced 2x with DT Swiss comps
    Matt


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  • if thats the only spoke showing threads thats a bit of a red flag, I mean, text book, you dont want to be seeing any threads

  • Yeah that’s what I’d thought but wasn’t sure if it was my OCD/being a tart

  • I'm only an enthusiastic hobbyist, but I wouldn't consider that acceptable for one of my builds. That's going to put a lot of extra load on the head of the spoke nipple, which has a hard enough life as it is.

  • That's a lot too short. It makes me wonder if any others are too short, eg if the threads have just entered the nipple they are still normally not fully supporting the head and you should be aiming for at least two further turns of the nipple after the threads are hidden.

  • @cycleclinic @Brommers thank you for confirming, should I be able to see any of the spoke in the back of the nipple? They are squorx ones and I cannot see the ends of the spokes looking through the rim... 🤔

  • Doublepost

  • It'll be much harder to see the end of the spoke from the outside because of the squorx head being taller, whereas in a slot nipple you should be able to see the end easily.

    Using a depth gauge, even a pin or paperclip as a makeshift one, should allow you to assess where the spoke is reaching in the nipple.

  • Thanks! Sounds like sound reasoning!

  • Complete noob needs some help determining spoke lengths. I have a set of Hope Pro4 disc hubs set up 12x100 TA on the front and QR135 on the rear and looking to get some Kinlin XR31RTS rims but don't know what length Sapim Race spokes to get. The hubs are 32 hole front/rear.
    On the rims, should I look to get the offset rim for front/rear or the non-offset for the front and offset for the rear?

  • should I look to get the offset rim for front/rear or the non-offset for the front and offset for the rear?

    100mm disc hubs usually have more than enough dish to justify offset rims, although they will still be fine without offset.

  • Offset seems to be the only options available to me at the moment at Spa Cycles where I am likely to order them from.

  • Spa build a lot of wheels, you could ask them too.

  • Offset seems to be the only option

    That's fine, Pro4 fronts have yards of dish so an offset rim is the first choice.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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