Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • Looking to get my first set of nice wheels built for my new bike(thats stuck at the builder atm)

    I want a son dynamo front, otherwise I’m poorly informed and unsure what to ask for. Back is 142mm 12mm thru axle

    Was thinking about getting the hunt superdura dynamo set, but quickly discouraged in the current projects thread.

    The bike I’m building is some sort of rando/adventure mix. Will clear 700c40+ and 650b50+. Was thinking I’d go for 700c wheels first since thats the ballpark it will get more use at first because other bike cover the 2.2” duties.

    Black/silver hubs will be fine.

    Would like a sturdy but as light as possible set of wheels. 32h I guess. I also think I want to go tubeless.
    Nb: disc brakes.

    I’m 75 kg and would like the possibility to bring 15kg of touring weight.

    Appreciate all the help I can get!

  • XR31RTS , 24h will be fine with them, or 28h if you want to go mega tough.

  • Why use 24 over 32 spokes? Discs and 15kg luggage would suggest as strong as possible

  • Hope pro 4 rear job done!

    Go 32/32 and forget about it

  • Yeah, I'd opt for more spokes than necessary on a disc brake, dynamo wheel. You'll lose a lot of triangulation because of the narrow flange spacing, so go for extra strength elsewhere. Also gives you a bit of leeway, should you break a spoke, in the middle of nowhere.

  • Oops, one of those was meant to be NSK.

  • Yes, Hope pro 4 sounds reasonable. How about rim wise? Kinlin X31rts and nothing else? That’s that? :•)

  • Official rims of the forum...

  • Dem rims are strong. I've used them heavily front loaded, off road, in 28h and they've been hard as nails, even after a range rover based dent. Honestly don't need 32 spokes.

  • Anecdotes are all good and well but my question still stands, why not use 32h? The weight/arros of 4-8 spokes will be immeasurably small compared to the rest of the bike, luggage and rider

  • Got a set of stayer 60/50 wheels sat in the garage doing nowt as I'm now on disc on both my road bikes. Is there anything stopping me building them into disc hubs? They're 24/20, and I know 20h disc hubs are harder to come by (for potentially good reason). I'm 73kg (or was before lockdown), would just be using them on the road.

  • I can borrow a DT Tensio which seems much more reassuring than what I was using before. It naturally only has conversion tables for DT spokes.
    I’m told the values can be used for Sapim spokes with the same cross-section (Laser-Rev, Race-Comp). The D-light has a middle section of 1.65, so halfway between the 1.5 Rev and 1.8 Comp. Can I simply use the arithmetic mean between the Rev/Comp values?

  • 20h disc hubs are harder to come by (for potentially good reason)

    Wheelsmith got these for CX race bikes, they claim to have worked well with 50mm rims.

  • Saw those, yeah. Is there a very obvious reason not to build a 20h disc wheel?

  • Can I simply use the arithmetic mean between the Rev/Comp values?

    You can interpolate and get close enough, but the value you're interested in is the square of the cross sectional diameter, not the diameter itself.

  • Is there a very obvious reason not to build a 20h disc wheel?

    The obvious reason in general is that the spoke loading is more like a rear wheel than a front, i.e. the heavy torsion is on the side with the worst bracing angle. The reason not to use that hub in particular is that it will be hard work to convert to most through axle standards, so its utility depends a lot on which fork you have.

    It could be fun as a mad-sciencing project, but as a matter of practicality you're probably better off selling the rim brake wheels and putting the money into some fresh disc brake ones.

  • I'm on a qr fork but obviously that may change down the line. I just fancied a project for the coming weeks/months but I realise buying a new pair would probably make more sense! Cheers

  • I'm an idiot and the search doesn't work for me, but I believe the radon wheel building stand was also quite well received here?

  • Saw those, yeah. Is there a very obvious reason not to build a 20h disc wheel?

    Make sure they have tangential spokes (i.e don't build it radial). Two-cross probably won't be possible.

  • What differs the pro4 from the rs4?

  • Rs4 is the “road” version, has centerlock not 6 bolt. Smaller flanges and slightly lighter.

    2 pawl not 4, can fit a 4 pawl pro4 freehub though.

    Both take 11spd and convertible

  • Two-cross probably won't be possible.

    I haven't checked the exact flange dimensions, but 20H two cross should be easily possible with any fairly normal hub. I'm not expecting any issues with that pattern building that hub into an 88mm rim.

  • Does the interlacing so close to the flange introduce unneccessary stress on spoke and flange?

  • Interlacing is optional, again I haven't drawn up the scheme yet so I don't know whether the first crossing is close enough to the flange to make me drop the interlace.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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