Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • 700c. Is 550 grams a reasonable weight or what?

    Yes

  • Best home wheel jig? Always used the top end Park tools ones at shops, thinking I’ll go with the £120 park one, any thoughts? (Getting a trade price)

  • Anybody know of a decent place to get some wheels built in north/central London? Reasonably priced would be a big plus

  • Does anyone know what rear hub this is? The wheelset is Hunt 4 Season Aero.

    I misplaced the drive side end cap while I was swapping cassettes. I've turned the house upside down looking for it. So need to identify the hub to order a new cap.

  • Why not just contact Hunt?

  • I have a pair of Park TS-7 truing stands than I'm planning to get rid of as I'm not doing classes and tutorials any more. It's not the top end Park but I used it for many years doing builds for people.

  • Could also be interested in one

  • I'm based in SE London but have a drop off point at Racer Rosa bicycles in Walthamstow. I pick up parts from there every 3-4 weeks so if you're not in massive rush I can build them up for you.

  • If you can post and they can be made to work with thru axle too, id take one

  • Think that’s probably going to be good enough;

    Happy to duck out as I feel best to let those who have commented take their chance to get a second hand one. I can get a trade price, as much as I would rather support second hand it feels fair.

  • This reply is jot really aimed at you but is what I think I general on this topic. Torque your lockrings properly. All notching issues are down to insufficiently tightened lockrings. Which ever way you look at this, the lockring job is stop the cassette sprockets moving relative to the freehub body. If the sprockets can move when pedalling then the lockring is not tight enough. Anti bite guards and other gimmicks are just a sop to those who dont own a good torque wrench, or dont think they need to use one, or are scared of doing the lockring tighter. Shkmanos spec is 40 to 50 Nm. People have said to me who have notched a freehub "I dont feel comfortable doing it that tight". Sorry to be really blunt but if thats you dont work on your own bikes. Oddly enough I never seem to notch my shimano freehubs.

    Actually miche separate sprockets are a bit thicker than shimano (they use thinner spacers too) so the sprocket cant notch the freehub as much for the same load and lockring torque. Shimano in there infinate wisdom, use a thinner sprocket and thicker spacer so the cassette is lighter and then when the lockring is not done up properly the cassette notches the alloy freehub. Shimanos solution is steel or titanium freehub bodieswhich of course add weight.

    Moral is do the lockring up to 40 or 50Nm and the bite Mark's wont be deep and freehub life then equals the bearing life. Then anti bite guards wont be needed.

  • Novatec f482 but the NDS end cap is different

  • All notching issues are down to insufficiently tightened lockrings

    That's broadly right, but don't forget that all notching issues are also down to people using completely unnecessary aluminium freehub rotors 🙂

  • That would be great, Racer Rosa is quite local to me. You actually built two other sets of wheels for me about 6 or 7 years ago which are still going strong! Ill drop you an email later today

  • I'd be happy to post it. You'd need some kind of thru axle adapter though. Think Park do them which makes it into a regular QR. Also, you need to secure hub to the stand so either with a QR or with the bolt (allen key or nut). Bit of an extra faff if you're building up a set once in a while.

  • They are slow to reply.

  • HUNT do use hubsmith, so you're likely right.

    Reach out to them on social media for a quicker response, they'll likely send you the endcap.

  • Not all hubs have steel freehubs. in fact my new hub wont because a steel freehub makes the wheel heavier and we all know that does not help sales. Thats sad but true. Also steel freehubs are more expensive to produce in small quantities. If your the size of shimano steel freehubs are cheaper. I'm not though.

    Part of the problem is doing jobs without the correct tools. I fit cassettes often and even I have to use a torque wrench to ensure I do the lockrings up enough. Too many think being a mechanic is cheaper than using a shop but they have not factored in tools. One chap this week said do you have a lockring tool. I said yes park tool fr-5. He said too expensive I'll only use it once. What about the torque wrench then. A good torque wrench is at least £50.

  • I’d be a rich man if I got a fiver for each idiot who claims to be self calibrating so doesn’t need a torque wrench.

  • First set of wheels is QR anyway so this gives me a chance to screw it up before spending properly on equipment. It'd need posting to Europe so the cost might be prohibitive I guess?

  • Looking a getting a wheel stand to keep myself entertained in the event of full lockdown. The Radon one has been mentioned before but I'm a bit nervous about ordering from abroad right now. Are there any other decent options, preferably from a UK supplier?

  • As you'll have plenty of time, why not build your own.

    I loosely followed the guide in Roger Musson's book . At the time I found a free pdf dowload, but looks like you need to pay now - which is only fair. It has all the measurements in it, but you can probably make it up as you go along based on a couple of pictures.

    I just made mine out of mdf scrap and some bolts i had around anyway. Feel even better building a wheel on a wheel jig you built yourself.

  • I've got a Park PR2.2. That's my wheel truing stand in Switzerland, I've got a home-made one with DTIs in the UK, so straight to the Golf Club thread for me. It's pretty good, but don't trust the side-to-side gauges for dishing the wheel, and it won't do thru-axle wheels without adaptors. Otherwise, it's a decent bit of kit and should be available from UK suppliers. If you do get one, I'd recommend getting the optional extra stand as well. It's a bit unsteady otherwise.

  • but don't trust the side-to-side gauges for dishing the wheel

    Just use one side and flip the wheel innit.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh

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