Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted on
Page
of 347
First Prev
/ 347
  • Hard to say, being a possibly uncommon size. Like L Lovett says though, you have to try.

  • Thinking of building up some Open Pro USTs on Hope hubs - would usually think a 24h rear would be fine but could there be any issue here? Think I've read that they only take quite a low spoke tension but can't find any reference anywhere. Rider + loaded bike would be less than 75kg.

  • I've been asked to replace the rims on a set of Dura Ace wheels. They are very worn but the hubs are still good. I've done this in the past with Cole C24 rims but no idea where to source them nowadays. The spoke count is very low: 16/20 so I'm struggling to find any rims at all with a 16 hole drilling. I've read on some forums of people using a 32 hole rim and lacing it to every other hole as it's a radial pattern. Don't think they'll be happy with that. Thought about Chinese carbon rims too as you can specify what you want but they want aluminium rims rather than carbon.

    Any pointers much appreciated.

  • Any pointers much appreciated.

    You can get Shimano rims as a spare part, but they're very expensive.
    Kinlin XR31 is available in 16H, you'd have to shorten the spokes but there's probably enough space to do that before you run into the bladed part.

  • That's brilliant. Thanks. Client has decided to go for the XR31.

  • Think I'm building enough wheels to justify a cheap stand. Currently doing all my wheelbuilding with a combo of bodged rack and various chainstays/forks, but it's a real pain to have to dig out a bike and pull it apart to true a wheel.

    What's the best option? Park Tool TS-8 and Tacx Exact both seem to be available for about £50, is there anything better? Or X-Tools Pro for £75?

    Small size and thru-axle capability would be big bonuses. And if I could fit that little dial from my bodgy rack to it that'd be amazing.

  • @mdcc_tester has previously recommended the Minoura stand; it seems pretty good for the money and I'm happy with mine.

  • Im getting a vague popping/pinging noise from my front wheel when I'm out the saddle. Its a shallow 20h carbon rim laced to a low flange mack. Couple of places around the rim look like this. Is the wheel fucked?:(


    1 Attachment

    • Screenshot_20190814-092238_Gallery.jpg
  • Just started using some Cosine wheels I got from Wiggle a couple of years back. Checked the rim and saw the join in the rim. Safe to ride? I've done a couple of hundred km on rough roads with no change in it but thought I'd ask.


    1 Attachment

    • IMG_1323.png
  • Checked the rim and saw the join in the rim. Safe to ride?

    This should be in the FAQ. There's a huge compression load going through that joint, it's not going to open up and the sleeve or pins inside the rim stop it moving sideways.

  • Excellent, thanks

  • Cracks in carbon fibre is never a good look

  • They are tiny, and it looks like this area is painted so could be paint? But you're right. Not a good sign.

  • What rims are they?

  • No name china carbon rims. Bought second hand (unlaced) on eBay. Probably the worst answer I could have given :)

  • Not the worst answer. Couple of brand name rims form microcracks after rebuilds and its purely cosmetic.

    These tho, I would not be so sure.

    Have you noticed decrease in tension?
    Also, has you Mack hub already have play in the bearings?

  • Tension feels even by hand. Will check with tensionmeter. Hadn't though to check the bearings, do you think that could be the source of the noise?

  • I'd get the tensionmeter out and just check

    Doubt that the bearings will make any noise but all the mack front hubs develop play as the spokes in tension pull on the flange and enlarge the bearing bore.

  • And the bore then closes up again when the flange breaks.

  • Could be. Never seen any at that point of its lifespan. Not great hubs in any case

  • Happened to me in Mallorca. A section of the flange on the front wheel broke off, leaving me with only 6 of the 10 spokes on the LHS of the wheel still connected to the hub, and a very tacoed wheel. It was, very briefly, very exciting as the wheel no longer turned through the tight clearances of the 3T Rigida forks. I managed to bring the bike to a halt while doing a 20mph skid endo. Quite puckerlicious. #csb

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh

Actions