Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • I’m not going to dignify that answer with a response

  • I prefer the Kinlins actually even though they’re not what I asked for, saw a picture of them with gumwalls and silver spokes and they looked very classy

  • Do you want silver rims or black or no bother?

  • Black or grey ideally

  • new axle and spacers get removed. I am sure I have done it before. There was a 126mm version of the M730 which is the same asthe M732 apart from the freehub.

  • The shallow kinlin are just about OK in low spoke count. I have been stung with a couple of riders buying them and breaking nipples and spokes. I stopped building those drillings after that with any shallow rim.

    As for shallow box section- your response was aimed at me i'm sure - let me explain. First I am assuming a geared bike. A single speed bike is quite different. take the TB14. In 32H drilling you can build a decent wheel that last for almost everyone that rides it. With th32 spoke the radial stiffnes is very high. in 28H that not the case . Move to 24H well I have tried with the archetype and even a 60 kg rider was breaking spokes on these. Hense I have some rules to reliable wheels learnt through mistakes which I have paid for literally.

    That is also why no one make box section rims in low drilling. There is no demand and rim manufacturers know it would not make a great wheel.

    Have you taken a look at the Kinlin XR26T in matt black. That would be very suitable.

  • Thanks, I gathered as much. It makes perfect sense what you’re saying.
    I’m 64kg and it’s for a sunny Sunday bike, geared. Like I mentioned, I’m only looking for those drilling’s because I have the hubs already and would be good to be able to reuse them but maybe I’ll just save them for something else. I do still slightly prefer the shallower 22T over the 26T. I might just wait and order some silver Hope hubs in a couple months and build a 28h set.
    Thanks so much for all the replies

  • I have a pair of Fulcrum Racing Red Zone 700 wheels, that I'd like to convert from 142x12mm rear and 100x15mm front to QR front and rear. What adapters can I buy? The fulcrum website https://www.fulcrumwheels.com/en/wheels/­mtb-wheels/red-zone-7-29 says

    The "Red Zone 700" custom model has the same technical features as the "Red Zone 7" model described here

    and the red zone 7 has 'One Hub Fits All'. but there's no product codes next to the technical drawings


  • there's no product codes next to the technical drawings

    There is in the Spare Parts Catalogue, go to https://www.fulcrumwheels.com/en/downloa­d-technical-documentation and download the relevant pdf

  • Thank you. I hadn't noticed the spare parts catalogue. If anyone was wondering the answer to my question is

    KITFCRAQR + RM16-TA12135

  • I've built up a wheel but either me or some manufacturer is unable to properly measure things and my spokes are a little too long.

    What are my options? Nipple washers will get me an extra 0.7mm on each spoke but I'm not sure that's enough, what happens if I use two washers? Do I have to just suck it up and buy new spokes and then sell the old ones?

  • I have used stacks of 2 and 3 washers. The bottom ones just mushrooms a bit out. Seem to work fine.

    It can be a bit fiddly to assemble.

  • Dt squorx nipples have a male T25 torx bulge on the top to accept their female T25 torx key which is threaded all the way, they're supposed to be used with their washers which are thicker than usual brass ones. I used them sans washers when building some wheels for myself and trying to squeeze in some slightly too long bladed spokes that were lying around for nice wheels on the cheap. Wouldn't do it with customer's wheels but have worked fine on mine. They can be fiddly to lace without the tool and I think you're stuck with alu and they ain't cheap if you want black ones that don't come with their rims.

  • I think you're stuck with alu

    Unless you get the brass ones 🙂

  • Obviously.

  • Trim them on a spoke mill, if you live in London see broken^^

  • Unfortunately don't live in London and don't know anyone with a spoke mill, so it seems that might end up costing more than new spokes. I'll ask in a couple of shops though, thanks

  • DT Swiss sqorx nipples are a good solution. You don't have tt o use there washers. Sapim HM washers fit some rims better.

  • @cycleclinic @snottyotter I might be being thick but I don't quite understand how the squorx ones help - would I put them in upside down or what? Isn't my problem that the unthreaded bit of the spoke won't go beyond the threaded portion of the nipple?

    Either way I don't think it'll work as I can probably find new spokes cheaper than £.40 each. Washers too are surprisingly expensive for what they are. I'll pop into a shop and see how much it'd cost to have them shortened, but might be time to cut my losses

  • The threads don't start right at the end.

  • You gain about 1 millimeter (because the thread starts later compared to the head position ):


    1 Attachment

    • SpokeNippleRuler1.jpg
  • The pillar spoke version of doublesquare/squorx nipples seems to have the thread set 3mm deeper compared to normal nipples :

    1 Attachment

    • pillar dsn nipple.PNG
  • Thanks, that makes sense. I'll do some research

  • I'm probably going to be getting some wheels built by Brixton Cycles, I think I'm settled on Archetypes for the rims but I'm a bit stuck with the hubs... I want something that feels good, will stand up to regular "urban" riding and .... looks cool.

    From my completely ill informed research I think I'm looking at DT Swiss or Paul Components track hubs but any advice or tips whatsoever would be appreciated.


  • any advice or tips

    Novatec, or Shimano XT 6-bolt if you can be bothered to do the conversion.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh