Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • Shimano centrelock has been around for years theynwont be getting rid of it any time soon.

  • Anyone on here built with the Planet X retro rim? I assume they are shit but for £11 each they are tempting me... Are they shit? Should I avoid and go for silver tb14 for low profile/box silver rim?
    Many thanks in advance!

  • The TB14 is hard to beat so long as you dont mind the price tag.

  • Message deleted - Already answered last page

  • Right - I recently noticed my LBS have managed to lace my rear archetype the "wrong" way round after I had the rim replaced. Aside from the obvious cosmetic irritation (it doesn't match the front), are there any grounds for me to ask them to rebuild?

  • It is an offset rim?
    Is it at the rear?

    If yes to both it probably won't explode on you but there's a reason rear rims are offset: To correct for the difference in drive/nodriveside spoke length at the back. (as the part of the hub with the cassette has to come "inwards" to make room for the cassette which affects spoke length..)

    Instead of having 1.5mm between drive/nd spokes you can have them the same length/tension.

    I don't know if your "wrong" way around is the way I am talking about. Worth asking about/complaining.

    If they've done it wrong that way demand a rebuild cos it's just not right.

  • Turned out my wheel rebuild for hell has spokes that are 3 mm too long: My mate didn't know, he got it at a jumble. No good deed... new spokes in the post.

    Funny enough I guessed 3mm too long and voila that's what the calculator said too. HAH!

  • I have literally no idea about wheelbuilding - but if you check a pic of a bike with that make of rim you'll see they have text on them that, with the valve at the top of the wheel, reads "H Plus Son" at the bottom. My rear one no longer has that since the replacement, instead the text reads the wrong way... And yes, it is a rear wheel

  • Take the stickers off.

  • This one is netween you and the shop but the shop does not have to oblige.

    Did the shop know which way your front wheel was done. The way the decalls are done on this rim is its only real flaw.

  • 20/24 carbon rims a bad idea for a disc road/gnarmac bike and 87kg rider?

  • Not sure how easy it will be to find 20H disc hubs, but in terms of general wheel strength it might be fine. Depends how gnar the mac is, and how hard you hit it. I'm pretty relaxed about 20/24 with rim brakes on anything signposted footpath/cyclepath/bridleway, and I'm 15kg more and I expect you're looking at deeper rims than DT R24

  • Yes; when Zipp spec 24 spokes on their cx/disc road front and rear wheels it's telling you something.

    Because of the braking force coming through the hub, you need more spokes to stop too much load being put on a 1 or 2 spokes. 24/24 is a minimum, at 82kg I ride 28/28 because 8 spokes don't weigh a thing.

  • I do 24F/24R a mininium but only with deeper rims at least 27mm deep. The stiffer the rim the better and it gets washered as well.

  • I was thinking of going 28/32 but saw a keenly priced set of carbon rims in the above, so thought I'd check.

    Thanks all

  • why 28F/32R. With disc brakes if you need a 32R you need a 32F. braking load is mostly at the front and the spokes take it all.

  • braking load is mostly at the front and the spokes take it all

    Try stopping a rim braked bike without spokes. It's a common misconception that only the spokes on a disc braked wheel are involved in transmitting braking loads.

    Of course, the correct approach, as with rear wheels, would be to use more spokes on the side which has both the worse bracing angle and the greater part of the torque transmission duty. I'd happily use 18-spoke front disc brake wheels if they had 12 spokes on the rotor side :)

    if you need a 32R you need a 32F

    It's more a case of "if you need a 32R you want a 32F", just because there's no point dicking about for the sake of 4 spokes. Everything comes in 32H, once you choose 28H you immediately cut your options in half or worse.

  • That not what i meant. Disc brakes do put higher loads on the spokes than rim brakes do there more spokes on the front disc brake wheel are required. 2:1 lacing would only work if it increases overal torsional stiffness. I have seen no evidence of this. For rom brake rear wheels 2:1 lacing is probably an advantage as the drop in torsional stiffness is probably not signifacant. Fea analysis of the wheel would confirm this alas that is not aomething i can do currently.

  • I attempted a wheel build last night, using videos from thebiketube channel on YouTube.

    When it came to the non-drive side, I had problems.

    https://youtu.be/8NJwEcm-NTw

    The video suggests two things:
    -You start lacing the NDS spokes in alternate holes from the outside where it seems most logical
    -the first spoke laced from the inside out needs to be the valve hole spoke, which is basically the opposite spoke to the valve hole spoke on the drive side

    Something about those two steps (which didn't seem particularly precise) didn't work, and there was too big a distance for the NDS valve hole spoke.

    In the end, I had to change all the NDS spokes round, so innies became outies, and then the spokes next to the one which was the valve hole spoke worked.

    What went wrong? Is there a more precise way of work out how to lace the NDS or did I get something wrong from the video?

  • Nds should be laced exactly the same way as the ds, assuming you're using the same number of crosses. If the first spoke you laced on the ds was adjacent to the valve hole, the first spoke you lace on the nds must also be adjacent to the valve hole. Any photos of what your wheel looks like now?

  • Not right now because I'm out, but it looks the same as another 32 spoke 3x wheel I've got.

    The video suggests they're not the same, e.g. that one of the valve hole spokes is threaded from the inside, the other side from the outside. I was confused when that wasn't how my reference wheel was but I think I've fixed it now.

    Anyone in (far) East London got a nipple driver I could borrow for the afternoon?

  • A small nail punch will work as a nipple driver in a pinch, holds it nicely.

  • Here's the wheel. It's still a bit covered in chain lube.

    Also I couldn't find my spoke key so it's just been laced as best I could with a flathead screwdriver.


    1 Attachment

    • 20161204_161553.jpg
  • Looks like a correctly laced wheel...

  • So it doesn't matter that the new H plus son Archetype are offset? :)

    It won't be a case of the "offset" being the wrong way around? I've no sense of direction though maybe that's not even possible.

    Then it's just an annoying minor flaw.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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