Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • just checked some numbers from an old build and front was definitively 290 mm, rear was 288/290, but of course rear hubs come in all sort of flange sizes… front tend to be much of a muchness, especially on a crossed spoke pattern

  • Yeah, it’s just another nail in the coffin for trusting manufacturer supplied erds.

    Tbh even when a retailer like SJS gives ‘measured’ erds for rims they sell I haves hard time trusting them as I’ve found a) discrepancies between their measurements and my own and b) discrepancies in their own measurements where they’ve given one number in the item description and another in response to questions about the item!

  • probably down to how the ERD is measured… some include the all length of a 12 mm nipple, some only include a 10 mm portion of it. I belong to the latter camp, so my measured ERD could be up to 4 mm shorter than others. Thing is, using my method I already tend to get spoke which use all the thread available, so I don’t know how others using the other method can avoid having spokes which are too long

  • Thanks! will go back and have another look at the calculations.

  • I don’t know how others using the other method can avoid having spokes which are too long

    By allowing for strain at some other point in the calculation. ERD is, for my money, properly defined as the diameter to the spoke ends at full tension. Where you want the spoke ends to be depends on the nipple geometry, and where they end up depends on the strain, so somewhere along the line you need to account for those things, whether by rule of thumb or rigorous calculation.

  • Are there any recommendations for choosing hubs for cargo use?

  • Both front and rear? What cargo (weight, axle interface and what e-assist?), how hilly is the area and how often are you going to use it.. do you need disc brake mounts? and are you looking for an IGH on the rear?

  • It's for an omnium, so light cargo. for external gears, disc brakes, ta, that sort of thing, without assist. Most of the time, the load will be around 20kg - chainsaw, some ropes, carabiners, etc.
    sorry for the vagueness, I was hoping for a vague answer along the lines of, you're alright with an mtb hub or so.

  • If it were me I’d get any half decent mtb hub i like :).. pref with a steel freehub, 32h+

    I also like having dynamo lights, so a suitable dynamo hub for the front (if it were me)

  • Hope PRO4 would be my pick. Never had an issue on my many Omniums. Big bearings, great sealing, steel freehub option and good engagement. Fairly well priced. Lot's of colors if that's your game.

  • Opinions on stayer wheels?

    Considering one of their gravalloy wheelset

    25mm internal width sounds good but in house brand always gives me pause

  • For those of you on tender hooks about whether or not I got a QR, I did. SJS just got stock.

  • Not sure what exactly costs £700 on these but hey.

  • The stickers 😎

  • I mean it's a lot of work.

  • it does seem to be a bit more expensive than other options...

  • You can get DT rims with Hope hubs for £584 custom built

  • You can probably get a set with a son Dyno for 700 if you go for a bitex rear.
    Seems pricey for what they are, the stayer set

  • Son and Hope RS4 is £720 from me.

  • There we are folks

  • Pondering these. Anyone had them yet? Hybrid hook makes me a little uncertain.

  • Better than no hook I guess

  • Plea for help on 'gravel' wheels

    For 7 months I have had a singular peregrine sat gathering dust in the corner of my room. I have not had the money/time/effort to sort this for various reasons

    Anyway, sun is coming out, and I had everything for it other than wheels. I would like to buy wheels through someone that does cycle scheme (to save £££) and then get it built by the wonderful local mechanic I use in Bristol. He is giving me some advice too and will do spoke calcs I think.

    After some advice on what I should get and from where.

    Can clear max 622x55mm (29×2.1”). My requirements are
    1) 700c
    2) decent front dynamo (keep hearing son if the only real option)
    3) ability to run 35-50c tubeless tyres - to go from 'gravel' to audax as location and riding changes.
    4) strong!


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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh