Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • 2x seems sufficient/no need for another pattern and for road use you can go aero (sapim cx-ray or similar bladed spokes) or use double butted spokes a la dt revolution or sapim laser.

  • I want classic, non-ovalized.
    Shouldn’t I do like d-light on the ds and laser on non ds on the rear ?

  • yes, you could do the ds with thicker spokes and the nds with the slimmer ones, eg. d-light and laser, or other combinations, e.g. DT competition ds and DT revolution nds, but with your 80kg I think its not neccecary for a road wheelset. looks cool tho
    I have a friend with 95kg and he rides cx-rays in his rear wheel with 24 spokes. so far nothing exploded

  • I'd not use lasers in anything, ever. Wind up way too easy, stiff as wet noodles.

  • I have since cheked most of eu’s eshops quickly, and they’re unobtainable too.
    Nevertheless, do you mean lasers exclusively or does it apply to other butted-to-1,5 spokes as well?

  • does it apply to other butted-to-1,5 spokes as well?

    All of them. Torsional stiffness is proportional to the 4th power of diameter, so 1.5mm spokes wind up twice as much as 1.8mm spokes. For axial and radial stiffness of a built wheel, they're fine, they have the same longitudinal stiffness as CX-Ray/Aerolite, but they confer no advantage which is worth having in exchange for being a massive PITA to build.

  • I want classic, non-ovalized

    It's an odd choice to have CK hubs.

    No, sorry, it's an odd choice to have any high price boutique hub and carbon rims and then spoil the ship for a ha'p'orth of tar by not using CX-Rays. There's more performance benefit in switching from round spokes to CX-Rays than there is in switching from XR31 rims/Shimano 105 hubs to 30mm carbon rims/boutique hubs

  • I have built and am quite happy with a laser/d-light wheelset.
    Didn't have a problem with wind-up building with lubricated components.
    However I think it's too much rim (too stiff) for those spokes in this application, cue brake rub.

  • Same here. Built two wheel sets, both with lasers (+non-butted on rear drive side), and haven’t had any problems whatsoever.

    Perhaps it’s because I’ve only built those two wheels though.

  • 1.5mm spokes can fuck off in general unless they've been squished so you can hold them, alpina 1.7mm are fine and cheap AF.

  • Any recommendations here for a hookless 32h carbon 650b gravel rim? Ideally 23-24mm internal, no specific depth requirement.

    I say gravel rather than mtb as I would like the flexibility to run up to 50psi.

  • I mean, I bought them cheap second hand locally, but I hear you.
    That being sad, what you write is sound. Tbh, I wasn’t necessarily aware of bladed’s structural superiority, rather their aero value, which isn’t exactly what I’m going for. Also, using a second tool is pita. Although, I’ve built with revolution’s before and checking wind-up was a painful process.
    Cx ray it is then.

  • Question for professionals: Do you have an spoke cutting/rolling tool that can recommend?

  • Pros would usually have something like the Phil Wood for billions o’ bucks; I’m no pro but the Hozan has done fine for me. It doesn’t cut spokes, but if carefully used does a nice job rolling threads.

  • I hardly get anyone asking for a wheelbuild, sadly. Can't justify the Phil, I need something relatively cheap because can't stock every size of spoke.

  • The Cyclo thread rollers did alright for occasional spoke replacements but was a bit awkward for whole wheelbuilds one after the other (I was swapping the heads out regularly though)
    Anything above the Hozan is gonna be expensive I think, even that is a jump up from Cyclo.

  • Get an account with JD Whiskers and ask them nicely for a few alpina spokes in every (usual) length, get them in black too if you're feeling fancy. If anyone needs anything more specific or a full build then they can wait on them being posted out.

  • Can't justify the Phil

    Which is why I talked up the Hozan : )
    Especially if you’re not doing custom lengths all the time.

  • I need a hollow m10 axle that is at least 154mm long for a m6 bolt conversion. Does shimano make one? Where should I be looking? I can only find 141mm and 146mm ones.

    edit: Ahh I found a wheels manufacturing one at sjs cycles, but I need (cheap) EU stuff...

  • The Robert Axle Projects does all sizes, SRAM maxle is cheaper.

  • I've been doing my first foray into wheel building on a set of Zipp 202s I picked up cheap from eBay due to the rear hub being cracked. I've rebuilt the rear with a new hub, spokes and nipples, and just about got it trued and dished with a DS tension of 110kgf

    I wasn't going to touch the front, but checking the spoke tensions for interest with the tyre off, they're ludicrously high - 26 on the Park tension meter translating to well north of 400kgf (2.2x0.9mm Sapim CX Ray Spokes).

    I can see nothing online about ever winding spokes up to that sort of tension but wanted to check I'm not missing something before I attack these ones. Given the level of corrosion on the nipples I expect a rebuild on the front to be necessary too but have oiled each nipple and will leave them overnight before trying to do any loosening.

  • I’m thinking about building up a 1990s Peugeot 531 MTB frame as a “gravel” bike.
    I can’t seem to find many options for 26” rim brake rims, any ideas?
    And will I be able to run them tubeless?

  • I've used DMR deevees on my 90s Saracen because they were the widest rim brake 26" rims I could find, they're pretty hefty and not tubeless though.

  • And will I be able to run them tubeless?

    No, AFAIK
    The first 20 or so options for 26" rim brake rims are at https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16635532/­incontext/

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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