Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

yeah posting no problem

X post sorry:

Got a SP PD8X dynohub, feels to me that the bearings are binding a bit.. turns alright-ish in the hand (for a dynamo) but if I clamp it tight in the truing stand it feels very stiff to turn.

Was wondering if anyones ever experienced it before with this hub? Or if they think it could sort itself out with use… don’t really wanna un-assemble it if I can avoid it.

Hey folks, I have a question as I'm left scratching my head.

Measured the ERD for my rim, measured the hub using pro wheel builder and it spat put a spoke length that looked / sounded right.

I built the wheel up, your classic 3x, hub logo visible through valve hole, all laced okay.

I then turned all nipples so that the cover the threads only, as your classic staring point...however some spoke tensions are really high and some are fairly low (can wiggle with hands) on the same side and even the same pair of crossing spokes...

Have I missed something?

All the nipples are the same length..

Tho I didn't re measure the spikes upon installation as I grouped and labelled them together when I first unlaced and stored them.

Disc side needed 292.4mm and I used 293mm but surely that can't mess this up this much...

Oh and the wheel is fairly true and no up and down with all nipple covering the spoke threads.

Any help or advice is most welcome..

Keep on tightening, if everything is fine it will come good with a bit more tension

To make sure, I delaced it and measured everything and to avail, I inputted some information wrong after reading the calipers wrong.

Also didn't measure the ERD correct and was out by 6mm.

So after all that, wrong spoke length.

I feel like a right muppet tbf.

some spoke tensions are really high and some are fairly low

This usually means you've laced it up wrong, possible one hole out on the hub on one side.

It's happened to us all!

whats peoples tolerances for spoke lengths? 1mm either way on spoke length is usually okay?

is it better to be longer over shorter?

Always round down (up to a maximum of 1.5mm).

Depends on the spoke calculator you use, some tell you if it's better to round up or down.
I prefer to round up.

is it better to be longer over shorter?

No, because you can end up bottoming the threads out before you reach full tension. In an ideal world, you'd measure a sample of the actual spokes and nipples you're planning to use to see what range gets you from thread just reaching the nipple head to thread bottomed out, to get min and max usable lengths. These are lengths under tension, the nominal length will be a bitter shorter as the spokes will have an elastic strain of 0.5 to 1mm at full tension. If you're really thorough, you'll calculate the elastic strain based on your target tension and spoke cross section. For reasons of idleness, it's usual to assume the whole length is the thin middle section and disregard the bend deformation 😉

When building a rim with no spoke holes, what's the equivalent practice to using a nipple driver to get an equal starting tension?

I needed 290.5 for one side and have used 291.5. should be fine.

The other 3 sides were bang on though.

My go to calculator addresses spoke elongation and nipple thread length for most common spoke/nipple models. Some other neat features, very much recommended.
Spokomat Online (german)
Spokomat Offline (En&De)

I just tighten the nipples until they just, and only just, come to the end of the threads on the spoke so they're roughly in the same position, and then take it from there.

Any recommendations for cheap silver 700c rims? disc or rim brake, I haven't decided yet. But I do want silver. Maybe 32h? Is it a Kinlin job?

Is it a Kinlin job?

Always.

What sort? wideish, going on a sweet fixie, lightish, if I can find a nice silver disc front hub I won't need a brake track.

XR whatever depth you want (31) they do come in silver but slightly harder to find.

Cheers dears

Snapped a couple spokes on our new (to us) Bullett. Any recommendations for a wheel builder in SW London? I've also posted in the cargo thread.

Anyone know what the model name would be for a old 135mm rim-brake Hope hub?

xr31 yes but xr22 might be more readily available.
@cycleclinic might be able to help

Try checking against their tech docs section, they seem to have a pretty comprehensive back catalogue.

https://www.hopetech.com/product-documen­ts/hubs/

Hi
I have older ck r45 hubs in 20/24 drillings. And I have some orient rims in 30depth and 28 width.
This is is for a road bike, i am ~80kg equipped.
Do we have some rec for spokes and patterns? From a purely aesthetic, i would love a 2x, both f&r.

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