Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • Just waiting for the new 13.25X105mm road+sub gravel standard to arrive

  • I'll take the tyre off at the weekend and see how much nipple I have to play with in the existing setup

    Yep worth looking at that as the NDS might need to be shorter, but actually measuring the spokes you have to see if it will work is the only way to know for sure.

    Happy to help with calcs if you want to double check em here. Once your spokes are out, measure the ERD of the rim. Most people advise against using measurements from manufacturers or figures you find online.

  • Just waiting for 98mm front, 126mm rear, 7 speed compact freewheels operated with downtube friction shifters, centrepull rim brakes on 27" rims to arrive

    ftfy. Everything comes around.

  • Should new hubs always be 'buttery' smooth? Do they loosen a little when run in?

    Reason I'm asking - I've just bought an XT hub (sold as 'new without packaging' on ebay from a guy who seems chilled) and it's immaculate, clearly never been built up nor had cassette anywhere near it. But I'd expect it to be a little smoother and looser i.e. it feels just a little tight and very, very slightly notchy, and the freehub just a little resistant. As my experience with new hubs is nil, just wondering if this is normal? Thanks.

  • I've often found new Shimano hubs feel a bit tight from the factory. I usually rebuild them with different grease and higher quality balls, but most people don't and you don't hear a lot of complaints about how they feel or perform once they're built into wheels.

  • Sometimes the cup and cone ones can come a little tight from the factory to be on the safe side, adjust away.

  • Just repeating things, sorry.

  • The plural of anecdote is data 🙂

  • And all comforting data too in this case, glad it's probably just a quirk of the newness. Thanks both for replying.

  • I was looking at how to properly adjust Shimano cup and cones after installing a new cone and according to a Youtube guy you should have a tiny bit of play that then gets taken out by the quick release.

    Is this actually documented by Shimano anywhere or is it something people have found just works?

  • It's what I've always done and got taught many years ago on a cytech course, enough play to just about feel but not really see.

  • Is this actually documented by Shimano anywhere

    Not anywhere I've seen, the service manuals assume you have half a clue what you're doing. The advice applies to any QR or through-bolt hub with adjustable bearings, you should account for the compression of the axle by the wheel installation in the frame/fork when setting the bearing clearance.

  • I’d imagine most of the owners of their OEM wheels wouldn’t be adjusting cones before riding either.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh