Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • Yeah i heard that so maybe thats why they sorted it so quickly if they didn't need authorisation or inspection from Knight directly. Got their gravel/xc rims and they've been great. I'm not holding this against them.

  • On my hardtail enduro bike I have wheels with Ryde Edge rims, I got them trued by a lbs (because some nipples unscrewed) and noticed there were big differences in tension of each spoke afterwards...
    I decided to bring the wheels to a wheel builder after that because I want them to be perfect, this guy told me that it's a mess and it needs to be redone completely.
    But; he says that these Ryde rims are of a soft material and you can only build them once and not a second time because they will be deformed afterwards. I never heard anything like this before, can someone tell me if this is true:/


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  • not specifically about ryde rims, but yes, a rim can deform when you build it, and you can tell the difference between a fresh rim and a used one when building a wheel. But saying that it can be only built once is something I did not heard before. maybe when you crash the rim to a potatocrisp-esque form. Re-doing the spoke tensions and truing it should be enough to keep your wheelset ridable.

  • I want to get some 650b wheels for a new gravel bike build. Most probably with some 2.1" rubber. This will get to see stuff like Epping, New Forest, South Downs Way, Purbeck etc. So some regular grav grav with the odd singletrack thrown in. Maybe some light bikepacking. Any reason why shouldn't get Hope RS4 but rather Hope Pro4 hubs?

  • In people's experience, how truthful are LighBicycle stated ERDs vs measured ones?

  • Just ordered spokes for LB AR45 disc, website stated 550mm ERD measured 552. Did not make a difference in available CX-ray spoke length according to calculations. (unless you go custom length)

  • Noted.
    Where did you get CX-Ray spokes from?

  • Bike discount was the only shop I could find with stock in the lengths I needed. But I do live in the EU, so that makes searching a bit easier.

  • I have a Ryde Andra 30 rim on a LX T610 front hub (rim brake only)

    Could I change out the hub for a disc LX equivalent without replacing all the spokes?

    First foray into rebuilding a wheel, and unsure of the tolerances allowed on spoke lengths. Shimano spec table with diameters in below.


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  • PCD 4mm smaller and wider flange spacing = 2mm longer spokes

  • Is it prevailing thought that 2mm difference is outside the recommended tolerance for spoke lengths?

  • Only if radial. For tangential spokes, flange diameter makes much less difference than that.

  • Do the maths, there are several good enough online calculators.

  • howdy!

    anyone got a method for calcs on wheels with star spoke patterns?

    I know the spoke length with a certain hub, but want to build with something else ( I have the hub measurements)

    the front is fine, its the rear I need to work out ...


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  • anyone got a method for calcs on wheels with star spoke patterns?

    The method is the same for any pattern, just use trigonometry to locate the two ends of the spoke in Cartesian space, then ask Pythagoras for the straight line distance between them. I'd draw it in Fusion360 and measure, because I'm lazy and already have the CAD, but it's not worth installing CAD just for a few simple calculations.

  • yeah not got cad or anything, I guess ill just lace it with something and measure those down

  • The Jobst Brandt book lays out the trigonometry in detail, get yourself a copy if you haven't already. I worked from that before we had home computers, although I may have had trig functions on my calculator. Since Jobst is long since dead, you don't need to feel bad about getting a pirate PDF rather than paying for a physical book
    https://www.google.com/search?q=Jobst+Br­andt+The+bicycle+wheel+pdf

  • What are Shimano on about in that chart up there re: PCD and Flange Diameter? Which one’s the distance between opposite spoke holes?

  • Which one’s the distance between opposite spoke holes?

    PCD

  • I reckon your spokes will fit fine, providing they’re not completely poking through the nipple currently. My rough calcs are giving similar length on the drive side, and about 1mm less on the non-drive. Dubtap’s comment seems to suggest you need longer spokes, but the PCD is larger and the flange - centre measurement is about the same on the drive side, and a bit less on the non-drive side.

    If you do reuse your spokes, it’s a good idea to seperate the inbound and outbound spokes as you go, and relace them the same way in the new hub. The outbounds have been bent a little to angle in towards the rim.

  • My rough calcs

    Which include guesses on the spoke count and existing lacing, since the OP hasn't stated these 🙄

  • Which include guesses on the spoke count and existing lacing

    and spoke dia/stretch and a nominal erd to get an actual count. Yes of course. Nontheless, given the parts choice I’ve guessed at 3x 32spokes.

  • Thanks, really appreciate this, and as @gbj_tester has suggested, I'll brush up on the maths before taking anything apart. Lacing is as you'd guessed, 3 X 32. I'll take the tyre off at the weekend and see how much nipple I have to play with in the existing setup

  • Not sure if this is the best place for it but its wheel related. Just got a great deal on a nearly new pair of nearly new Knight xc rims on DT swiss 240 exp cl hubs. The front hub is 12 mm. I needed 15mm and it turns out the new exp hubs are aren't reverse compatible like the old ones. 15 mm end caps are available for these but only as a step down from the 20mm version or replacements for the 15mm version. The shell is too small to swap the internals for the 15mm spec. So i was about the buy a new front hub and get the wheel rebuilt but came across these JJP&E axle reducer kits. Simple 2x custom width 15mm od 12mm id rings. One threaded inside and out the other friction fit and a replacement 12mm axle. Works perfectly for anyone who has loads of wheels and bikes in rotation or just for my specific problems. I got mine from uk supplier Adapt cycles. I'd never heard of these kits and only stumbled across them on day 3 of googling.


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  • For a retro bastard you sure are up to date with your thru axles. looks like a good fix for a problem that is undoubtably common while the industry decides on what standards they're going to stick with.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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