Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • yes, rim brakes. this is a good shout too, thanks.

  • Fanks @Skülly - Pillar not that common on this side of the pond - so we're going with Sapim Lasers, as they were readily available.

  • Currently trying to decide whether to go with the cx rays or something cheaper/less fancy. Are they worth it? Which other spokes should I use if not? I'm building myself and I'm a wheelbuilding virgin (take that whichever way you like) so probably not laser.

  • What’s the rim? And what spoke count, and usage?

  • What’s wrong with round spokes that cost less than half of those?
    Are these wheels for race purposes?

  • Kinlins, x31t. Record hubs. That's kinda my question. I want to build a set of wheels which I'm going to really enjoy and which will last me a long time. If the CX rays are worth it for longevity and sheer quality I'll go for them but if not then as you say I might as well go with something round at half the price. Some people swear by them, trying to work out whether they are worth it. Usage is standard road riding but the build is a lovely Tommasini with modern kit that I want to get the best I can for.

  • Hence my question.

  • Round will be easier to build with, especially for someone new to the process.

  • Ok cheers. So it comes down to D light race or force really. I'm leaning towards the D light.

  • I prefer building with bladed because you can hold them straight, dead easy, would get some pillar bladed though, because they're fine and loads cheaper.

  • Yeah D light or race are my go to for Sapim.
    Caveat emptor - I’m no pro either, built a couple dozen wheels or so.

  • Eh? Bladed are far easier to build with. Stopping spoke wind up is trivial with bladed spokes and a spoke key. Far harder with round spokes.

  • I oil the spoke tips, hub holes and rims and have never found wind up to be an issue, though I’ve never built with less than 28h.

  • I'd suggest you need to check your spoke tensions in that case.

  • never found wind up to be an issue

    The trouble with the word "issue" is that it's ambiguous. I hope that what you mean is that wind up is a thing which inevitably happens, but you know how to resolve it so that it doesn't become a problem. If you think it isn't happening just because you lubed the threads, may I suggest a course in elementary mechanics.

  • No, I regularly squeeze groups of spokes while building up the wheel and do a few hard presses with it against the floor with the axle resting on a block of softwood. There’s always some correction to do afterwards but not much, and my wheels have stayed true for the most part.

    I know I’m preaching when I don’t even have the authority of an usher, but this is my experience.

  • I mean it's in your name...

  • The most effective way to prevent wind-up is to back off well every turn.

    Squeezing spokes is a stressing technique.

    But yes bladed.

  • regularly squeeze groups of spokes while building up the wheel and do a few hard presses with it against the floor with the axle resting on a block of softwood.

    As skully says, that's stress relieving and you only need to do it once. Those actions will not have any effect on wind up, which as he also correctly says is undone by reversing the rotation direction of the nipple. If you put a witness mark on the spoke next to the nipple, you can see unwinding happen because there is no relative motion between spoke and nipple as you unwind them.

  • I can never remember the chain / cassette combos.

    I have a M675 rear hub. I know it is MTB 10 speed as I've got one of those dinner plate cassettes on right now.

    What I'd like to know is - as I know my 105 11 (11-30) doesn't fit on there :
    Is there a similar 11 - 30 11 speed MTB cassette I could put on there and would it work with my 105 chain?

    This would also answer this question:
    Novatec D712SB Hubs - https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections­/freehub-bodies/products/novatec-freehub­-bodies-for-shimano-abg-and-campagnolo-t­ype-b2

    changing the freehub to one of these will let me run 11 speed 105 cassettes right?

  • Is there a similar 11 - 30 11 speed MTB cassette I could put on there and would it work with my 105 chain?

    Don't think so. I think the smallest Shimano 11 speed MTB cassette is the 11-34 also badged up as an Ultegra cassette.

    changing the freehub to one of these will let me run 11 speed 105 cassettes right?

    On a Shimano M675 hub? Nope.

    You could get a road 11-30 11-speed cassette machined to fit a 10 speed freehub. That may be easiest.

  • On a Shimano M675 hub? Nope.

    Ah. Poor formatting / asking on my part.

    I have a D712SB hub. Currently 10 speed. Would like 11 speed on there. I think swapping the freehub I've linked to should let me run an 11 speed road cassette right? No? whine.

  • I have a D712SB hub. Currently 10 speed. Would like 11 speed on there. I think swapping the freehub I've linked to should let me run an 11 speed road cassette right? No? whine.

    Gotcha. Don't think so. That's a B2 and I think the D712SB takes a B1 freehub with a different sized seal.

    There's useful if not entirely clear information here on Novatec freehub compatibility.

  • Does anyone want to buy some wheels?

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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